Has anyone re-finished their interior wood trim
Like the title says. I've been able to locate part of the interior wood trim for my 07 in Piano Black. I have the passenger airbag trim, drivers side trim under the gauge and the center stack. They came off of a 2012 I think. At any rate, I've been searching for the center console and ash tray trim for years.
I bought a burl wood console off eBay and would like to tackle refinishing it.
I know I can wrap it and I may do that so thanks in advance for that suggestion.
I don't have body work skills and don't like refinishing furniture but am willing to take this on. I've done some finish work with a spray gun but it's been years and the last time I used a spray gun was to re-dye some leather seats. Turned out great btw.
OK so some questions please:
Removing the clear coat. Has anyone done it? Can it be stripped with something like paint stripper or is sanding the only option?
Primer - I assume a two part epoxy primer?
Paint - Gloss Black Epoxy paint applied with a gun?
Clear coat - UV poly clear coat?
I'm most interested in getting the original clear coat off and get to the would. My assumption is that I can't just break the glaze and start from there.
Thanks in advance
I bought a burl wood console off eBay and would like to tackle refinishing it.
I know I can wrap it and I may do that so thanks in advance for that suggestion.
I don't have body work skills and don't like refinishing furniture but am willing to take this on. I've done some finish work with a spray gun but it's been years and the last time I used a spray gun was to re-dye some leather seats. Turned out great btw.
OK so some questions please:
Removing the clear coat. Has anyone done it? Can it be stripped with something like paint stripper or is sanding the only option?
Primer - I assume a two part epoxy primer?
Paint - Gloss Black Epoxy paint applied with a gun?
Clear coat - UV poly clear coat?
I'm most interested in getting the original clear coat off and get to the would. My assumption is that I can't just break the glaze and start from there.
Thanks in advance
Last edited by Sean W; Mar 2, 2023 at 10:07 AM.
The wood is a very thin veneer on metal or plastic (depending on the location of the piece), so you are best to leave the existing finish in place - do not try to get down to the veneer itself. VERY gently sand the existing finish with a fine (perhaps 1000) grit wet/dry paper, and the apply the finish you want.
Don't strip it. Sand it smooth with 800 grit then apply your new finish. There is nothing to be gained by going further than that. As I was once taught, the best surface for a new paint job is a good old paint job
I agree on both accounts. Lightly sand to dull the finish. I’d use a high quality bristle brush myself. (experience with furniture, boats, etc)
Paint. Allow to dry.
Sand again,
Paint, Allow to dry.
Sand again,
paint.
There are a number of very good products to consider. Varethane (sp?) minwax, etc.
My experience is that Varethane is the most robust handling weather changes very well.
Paint. Allow to dry.
Sand again,
Paint, Allow to dry.
Sand again,
paint.
There are a number of very good products to consider. Varethane (sp?) minwax, etc.
My experience is that Varethane is the most robust handling weather changes very well.
I used to refinish MB interior wood. Used 2k clear as a finish coat...last year watched a fellow finish a guitar with high build clear, UV cure.
The UV cure took 4 minutes and no further shrinkage...if I were going to do it today, the UV cure material would be my choice.
WJ
The UV cure took 4 minutes and no further shrinkage...if I were going to do it today, the UV cure material would be my choice.
WJ
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