Courtesy of the State of Pennsylvania annual inspection, my rears failed the minimum 3mm required and $872 late I'll have new rear pads and rotors. Had near 5mm on the fronts so they can wait until Spring. The car was to go into storage after the visit. Oh well, it's supposed to be 76° tomorrow when I pick it up.

 

At least you have one worry less

Pad and rotor/disc change is actually pretty easy. Do it yourself and that bill would probably be less than $200.

 

Agreed about one less worry. I'm a woodworker, and a handyman around the house, and can even muddle through some automotive maintenance items... but when it comes to major systems (I do rank brakes at or near the top of that list), humanity is best served by having professionals do it. I'd probably finish the job, take it off the ramps, then look down and wonder why there are parts on the floor.

 

Yes. Brakes are most important so understand your reluctance to replace them yourself especially if not budget limited or have a time crunch.
You should review the shop manual to get an idea of what is involved. Maybe you have a more experienced friend who will be replacing brakes over the winter. You could help out and gain enough knowledge and confidence to tackle your fronts in the spring.

 

i've always done them myself on all my cars, the systems are almost idiot-proof. especially the simpler/cheaper cars without electronic e-brake and such. but, when i learned how it was trial-by-error the very first time. that car was up on jack stands for six hours. it took all day going back and forth between the driveway and a computer chair. i totally understand preferring to have somebody else do it. especially up north where there is all but guaranteed to be more rust and more problems.

 

Exactly this! Brakes are really important hence they are designed to be easy to work on without much chance of getting it wrong. There are far more complex stuff on cars.

Dealers are always trying to get money out of us especially on brakes. It is an easy sell and easy work. Then they put the apprentice on the job! Personally, I would rather do it myself and be sure it has been done right

 

Some people in here say you will need to do a Park Brake Retract or something similar to that so the parking brake will release and allow the rotors to be removed. Me, I just released the Parking Brake and then reset it when the job was complete. This has worked fine twice so far, and come spring I'll need to do it again. I have new rotors sitting in the garage ready to go, along with some Porterfield pads.
Course, using "Approved Jaguar Methodology" may be more important to some people, so maybe follow the 'rules' anyway. I don't see the reason, other than encouraging owners to use a dealer for brakes.

 

i've sort of wondered about this. been waiting until i have to change pads, but i planned to scour the forum to determine how not to break the e-brake when doing the pads, or if i also need to reset the e-brake after the new pads get in.

 

So basically you're saying do nothing, don't engage park brake, when you've changed everything simply apply the park brake with the foot brake pressed to "re-set" it same as you do when reconnecting the battery? Seems remarkably simple

 

Aye, Matey. Just don't set the brake when you park it.
Done with the job; start the car, hold down foot brake and set the Park Brake.
I've done it that way twice now, and will again come spring.

Remarkably simple. No reason is shouldn't be.

 

Thank you for confirming Sir, much appreciated - I'll be a little better prepared for that job when it comes

 

Maybe a dumb question, but I was taught years ago to gently push the brake pedal down maybe half way 3 or 4 times to mostly get the new pads to seat on the rotor, then a firmer and faster application. If you go too fast at first, you can create a problem in or with the proportioning valve. Is that something that technology has made unnecessary now? Can you just push all the way down without having to worry about the proportioning valve now?