Just wondering how you guys are keeping your perforated seats clean. Seems that the various hyde foods have a tendency to get into the holes . What is the method that you use to clean and treat/soften the leather. I also assume there is a post somewhere which discusses the various products but I didn't find it so what are you or your detailers using.

 

Jagtoes, this is a very timely thread for me. Just this morning, I ordered a jar of the Connolly Hide conditioner and it occurred to me after the fact, that application might block up the perforations. I dismissed my concern as in all the very positive reviews I read on the product, many of which were Rolls and Bentley owners, there was no mention of this issue. I would feel better, however, as I'm sure you would, if someone who actually applied Connolly's or a similar cream conditioner, commented on this specific concern.

 

I've been using Connolly's Hide Food for a while and find it comes down to some elbow grease and not putting too much on the perforations.

Start on the bolster or trim and once the rag is controllable, move the perforated areas.

 

There was a recent discussion on this topic in Detailing / Car care forum:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/d...n-x350-108100/

Leather has changed a lot in recent years with the introduction of water based dyes.

Graham

 

I read, from start to finish, the Ferrari Forum thread on leather care. It was extremely informative. Here is one post that I thought particularly valuable that someone had cross posted from the a Autopia Forum.

Aniline Leather; Cleaning and Care - Autopia Detailing Wiki - Autopia

 

I use a 2 stage kit for analine and semi analines (i.e. cleaner then conditioner). Realistically, you can clean just with a mild soap and water, though I use the stuff from the kit if I can. If you dont want to clog up the perforations with the conditioner (some of which can be waxy), just get it into your cloth first so you are rubbing essentially a conditioner soaked cloth over the seat rather than a cloth with lumps of conditioner on it.

Does anyone else have the leather slightly abraded at the bolster on the seat closest to where you get in the car? I recently noticed than mine is, which I suppose is from the former owner's trousers rubbing as he gets in and out.

 

I use the Jaguar leather cleaner available from the dealer. Cleans really well and easy to apply. And, I use Autoglym leather conditioner from a local Bentley dealer.

Apply the conditioner on a white microfiber towel and wipe the seats. Let it soak into the seats for 10 minutes. Go over it with a clean towel and you are set for a few months.

 

I use Lexol products and there has been no buildup of any product into the tiny perforations on the seats. The Lexol products come highly recommended.

 

I too use lexol and love it. Before cleaning I use my cordless dyson and it does a good job at getting the stuff out of the creases and perforations.

 

I use the leatherique two stage system and love it. Best leather care product I've ever used.

 

In reading the BMW forum comments on Leatherique, the biggest concern seemed to be the evaporation onto the windows and other interior surfaces. Would wrapping the seats in a plastic film after application not eliminate the evaporation? I would think that this procedure would also keep more of the Leatherique on the leather surface in the heat, which is what you want, right?

I still don't understand how the Leatherique softens the hide if the coating prevents the product from penetrating.

 

The leather used in modern Jaguars is coloured with a water-based polymer finish. It does not seal the leather against conditioners - a proper conditioner will still penetrate the finish, but use of so-called conditioners which contain silicones (almost any of the "commercial" products, including, shockingly, those made by well-known auto detailing companies), will seal the surface and prevent further conditioning. Don't use them. Hide Food is not designed for modern automobile leather; it contains water (note the "do not freeze" warning), is hard to use, clogs perforations and is generally substandard at protecting the leather. There ARE good leather conditioners for these modern leathers and Lexol and Leatherique are among them (the first being a light cream which penetrates the leather well and leaves it soft and clean after buffing - my favourite for the Caramel leather) and the second being a combination of oils which penetrate the leather as well, and in the process bringing dirt to the surface which can be buffed away. Neither contains silicones. There are other good products as well. The important thing is to use these conditioners regularly - and on the dashboard leather too if you have the Luxury interior. If the seat bolster is scuffed, it can be recoloured with colourants similar to the Jaguar finish.

 

What happened to all the guys that recommended Zaino when I asked awhile back? Used it on my Ivory Leather and was pleased with the results. I would like to know where the leather smell comes from....the leather itself or the tanning process and coating?

 

Yes srap the seats when you use the first stage. You can use the second stage cleaner on a regular basis to keep the seats cleaned and conditioned. I've used every other product you can think of and this is by far the best in I've used. That first stage sinks into the leather and upi sont believe the dirt it brings to the surface. I use the first stage monthly and whipping with a white terry cloth you can see the dye from jeans come out of the leather. After the second stage the seats are extremely soft. I read about the coating on factory leather and all I can say is it works, I'm not buying the dealing seals everything out, or why else would lighter color leathers get stained.

 

Well, after considerable reading on the subject, I've decided to avoid leather conditioners altogether and simply use, on a regular basis, a microfibre towel, dampened in warm water and 1/5th woollite, to wipe the seats and dash clean, followed by a drying with another microfibre towel. As my car is a vert, I'll apply 303 Aerospace protectant to avoid sun damage, especially to the dash and steering wheel. I'm convinced that this is all that is necessary to keep the leather looking new.

 

I've had very good results with Lexol, as it seems thin enough to avoid plugging the holes. I put a little on the towel first, then spread it around. Just watch for too much in the holes and wipe immediately if you see that. Same issue around the stiching, if you put too much you'll see it and can just work it in with a quick wipe.

I find it soaks in well and keeps the leather nice and soft. I've also used Pinnacle's but find it a little thicker. I dimly remember it has UV protection while I'm unsure about the Lexol, so I tend to use the Pinnacle on the dash vs. the Lexol on the seats. Probably won't make a difference...

I usually just clean the leather with a damp cloth prior to this, occasionally using the Lexol cleaner if I feel its needed for things like suntan lotion stains, which tend to show on the dark grey.

 

I use Leather Master products. I use the 3 step system:
Soft Cleaner, Leather Vital(conditioner), then protection cream.
A bit more labor intensive, but my car is worth it....

Vince

 

Would suggest you try the Lexol products. I use the 303 Aerospace Protectent on my convertible top. The 303 is a great product when applied with a brush. The water just beads up and rolls off the top. When using the 303 be sure NOT to get it on any glass surface, thus it may be hard to apply to the dash near the windshield.

Keep in mind, you want a product that will keep the leather dash supple and soft.

These products are available thru Amazon. If you can't get them Canada, I would be happy to secure them for you and send them up to you.

Just let me know.

 

That's all actually the manual suggests doing. Using their cleaner, which is water and soap basically.

I tried just that and i would occasionally go over it with terry towel and some water, but i started seeing the leather get wrinkly in certain areas, especially in the summer heat.

I started using the Cleaner and Autoglym conditioner on dash, seats, steering wheel and so far so good. The good thing about Autoglym is it doesn't leave the surfaces shiny, which i hate. Once applied and wiped down, you can't tell anything was even applied.

 

Thanks, Richard. I used Lexol in my Porsche and it left the seat surfaces quite slippery and far too shiny for my liking. I want the leather to have a natural look and feel. Currently, the leather in my XK is in "like new" condition, so there's no immediate concern regarding its softness, however, if I were to use a conditioner in the future, based on what I've been able to determine, it would most definitely be a water based product, such as the "Leather Master" line, Pinnacle or Lexol.

Thanks for the tip regarding the 303 and keeping it off the glass. I'll be mindful of this when applying it to the dash.