My brand-spanking-new-to-me XKR got a nice treatment** of all rubber gaskets and seals around the doors, hood (sorry.... bonnet) and trunk (aaarrrgghhh...boot). I want to do the top as well, but I am petrified of stopping the top midway through the cycle in fear that (1) it will never close or open again; or (2) I will have to learn and execute the manual top reset gyration.
Is it ok to stop the top midway through the cycle to clean and treat the seals? Can I start to put it down, stop it, do my thing then just press the button and have it continue on its merry way?
I searched for about a half hour and could not find a definitive answer. Your responses (snarky or not) are appreciated!
**treatment for me, going back to the '70's, is to coat the rubber with an ultra-thin layer of Murphy's Oil Soap, then go back over the treated area with a damp clean rag, let the rubber dry, then repeat the damp rag / dry ritual. In 45+ year of motoring fun, I've never had a rubber seal that I have maintained split or otherwise fail me. I was told this was developed back when repainted cars were baked, and they had to get extra moisture into the rubber to prevent it from drying out and cracking from the heat.
As long as you are Quick with it, say under two minutes total time, you SHOULD be okay. Me, I'd not risk more than say thirty seconds and do it several times if necessary. Actually, I'd more risk getting pinched and clean areas AS the top is in motion rather than stop it.
Murphy's Oil Soap is and doesn't provide UV protection.
Here's what I use on all the rubber seals and recommend. They're all still like new and it's quick and easy to apply. You can also use it to waterproof your canvas top. Read the customer reviews.
What do I know? ... I thought they were disposable!
This is what happens when fear of coronavirus keeps you in solitary confinement with your wife () for over 4 months and you can't find the deep end ... So, to pass the time, I thought I'd see how many Smileys I could use in a single post.
Well, that was therapeutic and cheaper than a psychiatrist!
Over this side of the pond a lot use a product called gummi pledge rubber treatment I tried it out but never liked the results so have used vasalen for years with no adverse effects
Pick up a tube of Shin Etsu "Honda Genuine 08798-9013 Silicone Grease". Not cheap, but worth every penny and then some. Apply on all weather stripping.
Gummi Pflege is literally "rubber care". "Stift" is stick.
Seems pricey to me.
I usually purchase when on special so £4.99 gbp so 6usd, treat all of my car seal rubber once a month and no issues, it soaks in and no residue. One bottle had lasted me over a year thus far
.... but I am petrified of stopping the top midway through the cycle in fear that (1) it will never close or open again; or (2) I will have to learn and execute the manual top reset gyration.
Spoiler
.
Spoiler
Manual operation of the convertible top is easy once you do it!
I was apprehensive but found that it was necessary, on one occasion, to manually stow the top to re-set the automatic operation.
The tonneau release cable should be in front of the hydraulic pump. Mine wasn't. It required hunting, but it is located there now!
Every convertible owner should break out the owner's manual and learn the procedure at a convenient time and then be ready for an emergency.
and doesn't provide UV protection.
... I thought they were disposable! 
) for over 4 months and you can't find the deep end ... So, to pass the time, I thought I'd see how many Smileys I could use in a single post.
