Thought I would share a recent experience. Bought a 2015 XK a couple months ago. At day one, the infotainment system's screen would go completely blank after a minute or two. Everything still worked when you hit the buttons. Just stayed blank. I had a limited warranty so, I worked through their process. Brought it to an approved shop (not JLR). They looked into it and said they need to replace the navigation and radio assembly. I told them great, but "I've read all over the forums that it might be the battery". Their reply was, "absolutely not, your battery is less than a year old and at the proper charged levels." After about 4 weeks of waiting for parts and then install, no change to the infotainment system. They then referred me to the local JLR dealer. "His buddy" that works there guaranteed it has something to do with the fiber optic cables. At about the same time, I received my C-Tek. Plugged it in for a charge for about 18 hours. Presto...the infotainment system works like new and has for the last couple week.

Lesson learned = always trust the Forum and It's always the battery...

Thank you forum.

 

And even if it's not, it's the easiest and cheapest thing to do first.

 

I'm glad the charging of the battery solved the immediate problem. However, shouldn't the alternator have charged and maintained your battery in a good state.

Although, I have not experienced any electrical problems, my 2014 XKR is not maintaining the battery at a suitable charge. I use a Ctek to keep it charged. Every time I return from a drive about an hour or so the battery reads less than 12 volts. The BMS is suppose to maintain the battery at no less than 12.2 volts. I've ordered a new alternator to see if that helps. My dealer checked the charging system and could not find anything, but did not rule out an alternator problem. I'm using an AGM battery which also could be causing a problem.

 

While operating, my car's voltage is right around 14.2 volts at idle and it goes up a little bit while accelerating.

 

The "discharging system" needs to be checked. When the ignition is shut off, battery drain remains high for a period of time, then settles to a lower level.
Locking with the key-fob accelerates the time-out to that lower level, so you might try that to see if it helps.
This subject has been discussed on the forum. Defects that cause the system to "stay alert" on the higher current draw appear to be common.
Don't know if the "defects" are hardware or "operator malfunction".

keep us posted on what you find.

 

Cheapest Diagnostic tool you can get is Torque Pro; allows you to set up gauges for any info available on the diagnostic connector plus loads more, pair it with your smartphone, and keep an eye on coolant temp, alternator output, etc. Add track replay and you can record video of your drives with gauge displays.

 

Torque Pro in action:

 

Couldn't get the torque pro app to connect to my Kiwi obd2 adaptor - which is too bad as it looks like it does more than my Dash Command App.

 

This looks interesting. Lack of gauges in the cluster has been a concern of mine. I'll dig into this option. From a quick search, it sounds like it only works with Android. I would need an IOS compatible product. One question, how did you get it to show on your infotainment screen?

 

The charging system is controlled by the PCM.

Always check the voltage using a voltmeter across the battery terminals for the most accurate evaluation of the available voltage. With the ignition in the OFF position, there should be a minimum of 12.6 volts available from the battery for all modules to function correctly.

 

For IOS, Car Scanner Pro's quite thorough.

 

Can't find it - is the name correct?

 

There was a free trial version and a pro version. I have the pro version which appears now to be called Car Scanner ELM OBD2.

 

Read this thread to understand my problem. I ordered a new alternator.



https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-rate-239220/

 

Thanks to Sean W
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-camp2-175877/

 

Thanks - got the website - looking into it.

 

The alternators of today are not those oversized brutes of yesterday. Probably efficiency and cost of manufacture has something to do with that. Recall ohm’s law, P=I*E, this power output is reduced now.
As such, don’t think of the alternator as a “charger” but as a “maintainer”. You can confirm this on your own…. run the car with every electrical component “on” high. You will notice some form of degradation… reduced fan speed, less intense lights, etc. The alternator is stressed trying to keep up.
Furthermore, as batteries age, their internal structure deteriorates… thus the capacity of the battery diminishes.
This action is related to the number of charge cycles… in summary and as many have stated here or learned, just check the battery first… stop toying with it, when it reaches the end of its service life, replace it. simple.