Hi Can anyone help not sure where to start with this one.
If I put the front drivers window down, it will try to come up then go back down, if I just touch the button quickly it will come a inch at a time, then on the next touch will go back to the bottom. A pain in the rear when you go to a drive through !!!!. With a lot of messing about can get it back up in about 30 mins,
Is it a sensor ???? Any ideas out there ?
any help gratefully received.

 

1st is your battery fresh and up to 12.6V. It does sound like maybe the switch is the problem . Needs more diagnosis.

 

Thanks - Battery is ok. wondering if was something to do with the sensor that drops the window when you open the door, then allows the window to shut when you close the door ?

 

Not sure I am following the description of your problem, but it sounds like when trying to raise the window, it will often go back down..


The windows will not close if they think there is an obstruction in the window, and will open back up. This is to prevent some body part or other object from getting caught and damaged by the window. So if the window has too much resistance when trying to close, it will open back up. You will need to determine why there is too much resistance. In my BMW, there are plastic sliders in the window regulator that over time become harder to slide, causing the problem I think you are describing, and if they are replaced the problem goes away. Or alternatively the slot that the window travels through may be too tight.


The sensor that drops the window is attached to the latch mechanism, so when the door opens the window drops a little so that it clears the roof when opening the door.

 

Before doing anything radical, try resetting the windows:

• Ignition ON
  
• Raise window up to the top seal and release.
  
• Raise again until window stops moving.
• Release.
  
• Press Raise button again for 2 seconds.
  
• Lower window fully.
• Release.
• Press lower button again for a further 2 seconds until a relay is heard to click

See if that solves it.

 

There's a load sensor and position encoder in the motor assy so the chassis puter knows when the window is closed and fully opened. That's why you need to raise and lower the windows until they mechanically stop and then hit them again to trip the load sensor.

First I'd try to lift the glass while raising the motor. If it helps then you have a load problem similar to what 110reef is saying (most likely in the mechanism). If not I'd unhook the battery for a couple minutes and reinitialize the windows (full down and full up with the doors shut to reset the position encoders).

 

Have a similar issue with my passenger door window. Sometimes it will go about half way up, and then reverse and go back down. Seems to be some resistance going up.
If the car is running, the chances of fully closing are better, so the battery is very suspect, and I plan to get a new one soon.
Most of the time, the window doesn't go fully down either, stays 1/4 inch above the edge of the door.
Done the window reset multiple times, sometimes gets the window fully down, other times not.

 

Thanks for all the replies. Will take the door card off and have a look, when it stops snowing!!!. Gives me a few ideas. Thanks for the advise.

 

Also check that the two window mechanism adjustment screws do not need a little tweaking.
These are the two star bolts that you can access through two round covers at the base of the door panel. I had a similar problem a month ago on my passenger door (For no reason) And this solved it
These adjustment bolts, move the entire window mechanism in and out, helping to align. If miss-adjusted, they would cause a slight bind and the window will return to the bottom position

 

I also have this issue. I tried adjusting those two bolts at the bottom of the door. I have re calibrated the window several times as well using the instructions provided in this thread.

It seems to only retract back down when the door is shut. When I have the door open it doesn’t give me any troubles.

It only retracts at the end of the process when nearing the fully closed position. There doesn’t seem to be any obstruction on the seal so I’m not sure why it’s still giving me trouble.

 

Have you done a recalibration via a scanner??? The other issue we get popping up from time to time on the forum is seats that function incorrectly once again Most of the time, something has gone wrong with the battery (lost charge) and they too need recalibration via scanner

 

how does one recalibrate via a scanner? Do you mean like some sort of diagnostic tool?

I have had a plethora of electric issues. I have an airbag light that’s always on, have had “battery not charging” lights and a cooked starter that I believe was due to a corroded wire that got fixed recently.

The window and airbag error still stand.

I feel like a noob not knowing what recalibration you mean but bear with me.

 

exactly with the correct scanning tool; however, first and foremost, the number one issue with our vehicles is a faulty battery throwing out multiple codes... I would have the battery load tested, then go from there .

 

Precisely right @steve_k_xk . As we know, this very suggestion is laid out clearly in the Workshop Manual, as well. And yet…