Hi kj07xk. I did not create the links because at the end of all the work I realized I followed the Service Manual almost exactly. I say almost because I found my own procedure for replacing the front end stabilizer arm bushings. On the left side (driver's) I used a 3' extension on my socket and was able to thread the extension down to the two bolts that retain the bushing. Once the retaining clamp was loose I could wiggle the rubber bushing free. The new bushing can be moved right down into position with some silicone assistance. On the right side (passenger's) I removed the small wheel fender plastic cover that is directly above the frame. If you are sitting looking at the right wheel well, the cover I am referring to is about 20 degrees from straight forward. Follow the stabilizer arm back into the engine compartment and you will see this separate 4" by 2" cover. Two bolts hold it on. The bushing is only a few inches away from this location and easy to reach. I used the same procedure of loosening the bolts and wiggling the old bushing free. Again, slipping the new bushing in place. The Service Manual is very exact on all of the other procedures. I hope this helps in tackling your suspension projects.

 

Turns out, the bushings on my upper ball joint are shot. Is it possible to replace the bushings independently or does the ball joint assembly need to be replaced? Also, I’m told that my shocks/coils have collapsed at the top, is that really a thing? I’m not seeing anything obvious that looks collapsed other than damage to the seal/rubber around the top portion of the shock (underneath the mounting plate). Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

 

It's sounds like you're talking about the shock mount and spring seat at the top of the spring, and yes they do wear First sign is usually clunking noise. You'll want to pull the shock to do a visual inspection. Cheap and replaceable wearable part but if you'r not an experienced DIYer I recommend having a shop do it. The springs have to be compressed and that's a dangerous job. Also, inside the chrome sleeve, there is a stop bushing that rides up and down the shaft, moving with the shock. Again first sign of failure is clunking noise.
I don't know what collapsing at the top means, never heard of it. Testing the shock is not hard but again, best done when replacing the mounts. Simple really once the springs are removed. You stand the shock upright and press down on the piston. It should slowly return to the fully extended position (10 - 15 seconds maybe) If it doesn't, replace the shock. Old school method of course is to do the same thing while the shock is still on the car, If the car bounces while pushing up and down on your fender, it needs further inspection. It should just slowly move back up. Here's the most important thing and maybe what they/you meant. Is the shock leaking? Is the black (or if XKR, green) part of the shock wet with oil. That happens when the seal breaks and that seal is on the upper third of the shock where the piston slides in and out of the chamber. Ain't no fixing that. The shock should be replaced.

 

Thank you Sean, your info is valuable and pretty much, spot on. Yes, the shocks are leaking oil and, thx to your 411 about the spring, I’ll likely have them replaced at a shop. Still researching the situation with my upper ball joint and will decide on a path forward soon. Again, thx and please don’t be shy sharing experience and knowledge.

 

In response to the very first question, I e just replaced the upper control arms and tie rod ends on my 08 XK at 62,000 kms (circa 40k miles). The car actually drove nicely, relatively smooth but on inspection the bushings in them were all shot. I can really notice the difference after replacing them though. Completely different feel to the car, feels brand new.