It's under warranty so I'm going to let the dealer do it. I don't care what it cost them. If it doesn't get fixed then I'll do something else.

Has anyone "fixed" the problem by touching the two battery leads only to have the problem come right back? Wondering if anyone has just tried to rewire the license plate lights by tapping into the parking lights as a much cheaper solution that dealer reprogramming the module.

Also wondering if anyone tried to argue with Jaguar that since this is a known "design flaw" that the TSB action should be done for free.

Thanks

Steve

The dealer finally said they would fix it. Dropped off the car yesterday. We'll see how it turns out.

2010 XK. - License plate lights did not work. I did the trick of touching the two battery cables together for 20-seconds. - That Worked!!! - But... When I just took it to get it Inspected, it did not pass, because it had lost it's "Faults Codes" for emissions. They said I needed to drive it 150-miles and bring it back. - Question: Is there a way of getting those Codes back quicker? - Thanks.

Drive faster

see this thread.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-cycle-169972/

Yeah, Kevin Green? There is no reason to post the same statement / question in three separate threads. Once in ONE thread will suffice quite well.

Okay. Sorry and Thank You. - Kevin

I found out that the rear license plate must be lit and visible for a minimum distance of 50 feet, by law in Texas. I called my local Jaguar dealer, Jaguar Houston Central, and was told by the service advisor that they could reflash my module for about 2 hours of work, or about $400.

Has anyone considered rewiring the plate lights to a brake light or something similar? It would seem if this is required by law and faulty by the car manufacturer that the dealer would be interested in fixing it..

Get one of these so you can pass inspection!
https://www.etsy.com/listing/1029397...lery-1-2&col=1
Could always mount the light part and run off any 12VDC.

As said in a post above, this EXACTLY happened to me five years ago, and I also have a 2010. My service guys also said I needed a reflash ($200, not $400), which sounded like complete BS to me. They very nicely said I could work with the wiring, trying different bulbs, or whatever, and would be happy to do it at a later date.
I tired, failed, caved, and paid them to reflash. Problem solved and hasn't come back.
My two cents: find someone who will do the reflash for an hour of labor and be done with it.

Hey El_Jalapeno, If you read through this thread, there is a good chance you can "fix" this in 5-10 min. This happened to me 3 yrs ago and I followed RedSky's tip to reset the module between the rear seats. I just noticed at the weekend that the license plate lamps were out again on my 2010 XKR. Reset the module and all is well again. Took me less time than I spent replying to your post... Quicker than re-wiring your car.

Yes def try the hard reset first (disconnect both battery cables, touch together for about a 20-count, reconnect). Sadly, in my case that was not successful.

The module ITSELF needs to be reset, not the car's Hard Reset.

Is that a DIY reset? Or what I had done at the dealer?
Also, FWIW, for the most part I have not found the Hard Reset to be the magic bullet it has been for others. Which in itself might be good, as in each case there was another solution to the issue (conv top, touch screen, plate light). So the failure of the hard reset ended up being a kind of diagnostic. The time it did work the fix was temporary,and the issue returned.

Check post #11 in this thread. I've heard other places that it works specifically for the rear lights when just a hard reset fails. Something to do with extra capacitance or something.

There is a Jaguar TSB (No JTB00226) on this issue, explaining that a malfunction sometimes occurs on startup when the car’s headlamps are in AUTO mode … the auxiliary junction box (AJB) controller triggers an excess current alert and disables the plate lights. Probably low battery voltage causes the protection to trigger. Anyway, Jaguar knows it is a design flaw, and produced updated software (firmware) for the AJB to solve it. The TSB explains it all and how to install it with SDD. Just Google the TSB number above to find it.

Probably the new firmware disables current sensing for a few seconds after the car is started, to let the battery voltage stabilize.

On my 2010 X150, the AJB set a permanent U1000-00 DTC, and the AJB disabled my plate lamps. Thereafter, a warning light lit on the dash (car in triangle) that I could not clear. (In this thread nobody mentioned the DTC and dash light but I assume you all are getting that too.)

After investigating this, I used the SDD software to update (aka flash) the firmware in the auxiliary junction box with the updated version from Jaguar. This probably will solve the problem, but to be complete, I am also going to replace the incandescent plate lamps with LED. An LED lamp uses about 30% of the current of incandescent so swapping to LED may avoid the over-current alarm, even without the software update.

Those of you who can’t install the firmware update with SDD (or don’t want to pay the dealer to do it) might try swapping plate bulbs to LED, then resetting the AJB by (as described above) removing the AJB power connection and then shorting the AJB power terminal to the AJB ground to discharge any stored charge on the circuits of the AJB. That should clear the warning and restart the plate lamps. With the reduced current drawn by the LED lamps, this might be a permanent fix.

Another thing to try is not leaving the lights in AUTO mode.

I know this post was from a long time ago, but can you explain how you got into this module, my middle seat area or arm rest doesn't seem to want to come off?