Hi and thank you for your wonderful forum. I've spent many hours reading previous threads, and there is some fantastic advice and people here.. so thank you and looking forward to being a small part in future.

I have just purchased my first XKR 5.0 after spending a long time looking. It was the cheapest I'd seen (wasn't expecting to get into a 5.0), 105k miles, full service history every 10k miles but lacking documentation relating to major maintenance (water pump etc) other than some recent mechanical work. Therefore I'm going in with eyes open and lets say that I like a 'punt' now and then, which it seems many of these are anyway no matter what the mileage.

I've 2 potential issues at the moment which weren't obvious when I was buying the vehicle.

Firstly - ticking engine when warm idle (sewing machine), and every few seconds the revs dip slightly before going back up. The ticking is tied to the engine speed (it increases in tempo as the revs increase). This is INTERMITTENT so doesn't happen that often. It goes away after a little drive or left to sit there for 10/15 seconds. Sometimes I get another slight lumpy sound which continues through the exhaust too which is around 3 times per second in rhythm, slightly lower knocking noise. I'm overly exaggerating the sounds, its a noisy engine anyway and maybe others won't think there is an issue, but it certainly sounds very similar to the timing tensioner issue in other topics.

Am I right in thinking that the order in which I should try to find out if there is an issue is to get it plugged in, and also give the engine a flush? Then get the oil checked (and check there is money in the bank account :/)
I may be jumping the gun here, but if it is timing chain tensioners should we change the chain and other components and are these still readily available? Is there a list in which other components to change and does anyone know a rough idea of parts costs for the whole job? (I won't be doing this myself but have found elsewhere some estimations of labour hours)


Secondly - On the way home I changed gear manually doing around 60 mph and then at around 1500RPM it lumped forward and backwards, like it was running out of fuel or just had issues maintaining the timing. Once I changed gear it went away, only happened twice and I couldn't get it to replicate it again. Does anyone have experience in what this could be related to (obviously I'm guessing its tied into the above issue but also read about other causes in other topics)?

Thanks in advance, obviously I'm not that mechanically minded therefore please excuse any mistakes.

 

Welcome to the forum Amoor, great first post

Firstly get your car deets in your signature, it'll stop you having to repeat year/engine size/ SC/NA in the future.

Second, it sounds to me like the isolation coupler in your SC has gone, that's a SC out job and will cost you around £1000 for all the parts/hoses gaskets, it can be done cheaper but it's good preventative maintenance, at the same time I also had my SC oil changed. Luckily I had a aftermarket policy from Motoreasy that covered my cost. If you get it diagnosed from Jag or an Indy and purchased from a trader they should cover some if not all of the cost....if you bought privately then no such luck

Lastly the trans made by ZF should have it's fluid changed at the first 60k miles and then every 40k miles from then on, So yours should have had 2 trans oil changes.

Jaguar say 'sealed for life' but that's a crock. I had it booked last April to have it flushed (Note this a ZF approved flushing procedure from a ZF Master Centre). That visit didn't happen, nor did the next one in July...both due to lockdown.

So booked in again for July this year at this place:

https://www.mackie-transmission.com/

My car's got 56k miles now on it (46k when purchased in Nov 2019) and I paid £32k for it, the next cheapest at that time was £46k!

 

Thank you @MarkyUK

I'll look into the signature now, thanks.

I have read about the SC isolation coupler issues, with some stating a clunk as the car is turned off.
Maybe I can isolate the SC from the rattling noise by taking off the belt, although if the rattling noise requires no rectification I've still got the 1500RPM issue to look at, is this what the SC isolation coupler could relate to?

Trans fluid - this was done a few thousand miles ago, although I can't vouch for the correct oil etc being used as it is just a receipt but original parts were used for the mechanicals so hopefully all is correct there.

Yes I realise how cheap I got mine for compared to yours, but its likely your bodywork is a lot better and over half the miles. Have you had to spend much in maintenance?

I'm beginning to understand the potential costs of 'preventative' maintenance now, but hopefully I can get this to the point of being confident driving it knowing many of the issues have been sorted... still having a lot of change from what the cost of one that is advertised as perfect without evidence of the work being done.

 

Welcome Amoor80. I would certainly run a can of whynns engine cleaner through the engine for at least 20 mins then do a oil change 5w20 oil to spec , also I would run a couple of tankfulls of techron injector cleaner through the system and see if things improved , you are looking for the sewing machine noise , Means the engine is sweet . Any clunks knocks means investigation . Good luck

 

Thank you @George05 I'll do this straight away. I've read people debating what oil to use on this forum, is there a consensus on what brand etc? I've also read that the official Jag message changed to using 0w20 for these engines but can't find anything on this other than forums.. as its an ageing engine should I stick to a certain brand 5w20?

The engine has no clunks, although just took it out, sweet as a nut no dodgy noises at all at first, then after 15 mins of driving it starts to make the "pea in a bean can" noise that seems to rattle as the car moves over terrain, again only slightly and its hard to hear from inside but its definitely there but again only when warmed up.

Crazy that I seem to have noticed many of the noise issues I've ready about on these forums 😂, and it could be that I'm being overly hyper vigilant as there are certainly no knocks at all.. just a little slight rattle as mentioned above, this has happened before too. Correlates with mounts of some sort after expansion when hot. If I build a list of likely culprits for all the noises I can start to work through them with someone more in the know in the hope of gaining more confidence that a major issue isn't around the corner.

 

Hi Armoor . Castro edge pro 5w20 is what you are looking for but it is getting hard to find , Alternative go for Shell helix 5w20 a very good oil and carparts4less website UK had a good deal on it last week also had a good deal on the Mann oil filter for the car . Go to their website put in your reg then look for the oil and filter the car takes 7.2l . On the topic of the pea in the can , I would do the oil and filter change then add a bottle of techron injector cleaner , it is an American product but amazon uk sell it . Run through a bottle of that for a hundred or so miles . IF the pea in the can noise is still aparant then do as Mark sudgests , get the spring isolator swapped out and also new supercharged fluid put in

 

Is the rattle apparent when the car is sitting ? Just as you mentioned rough terrain have you looked underneath, could noise be coming from the diff ? Just a thought

 

The noise could be coming from underneath yes. I've just been out in it and the only noise this time was the ticking which was quite loud this time (the wife came out of the house to let me know she could hear it). Seems to act different every time. Again, no knocks when I turn it off (never had this noise) therefore hopefully nothing supercharger related.

I'll do the oil, filter, techron, and then check the posts again from a guy called "Queen and country" over on the US forums who popped up quite a lot mentioning running something through the engine multiple times to flush the gunk out of it.. then give it a spin.

With any of the potential bigger issues (timing chain loose, tensioners worn, supercharger issues etc) do most people show fault codes when they get them checked, or again is this just random whether they computer knows or not?

 

The ticking noise might be from the direct injection, VVT actuators, or timing chain and tensioners. Read this entire thread:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...icking-152087/

Good Luck!

 

Despite the sage wisdom offered earlier the correct oil for our climate and the 5.0 is:

Castrol Edge Professional E C5 0w-20 STJLR.03.5006

Am unsure how/why other 5l owners are using and recmmending sommat different?

 

Q&C is a very knowledgable member on here , follow his advice . Most members will ask if there are any codes , it helps pinpoint any problem

 

my car a 2011 xkr Mark , I have always used the recommended oil 5w20 and yes I am aware of the update to 0w20 . Just my preference and have read a few posts of this 0w20 oil being used , on other cars made by jaguar , xkr, xfr, ftype and xkr all having engine problems so I stick to 5w20 just my preference

 

George, you need to elaborate (or post up some links) as I've searched this, the XFR and F-type forums and can't find any posts related to issues using the Jaguar specified oil.

I even googled 'E C5 0w-20 STJLR.03.5006 problems' and nothing?

Attached below is the oil spec bulletin

 

It's been a while back Mark and on this and other forums reading threads of engine problems , That owners have reported all seemed to use 0w20 oil , for instance , jaginfo site and shrek, a xkr-s again using 0w20 . Could just be coincidence or bad luck IE a bad engine . You use what you prefer and so will I

 

Lol OK George, btw can't have that 'long' ago as you can see from the bulletin its dated Feb 2018, so just over 3 years 😄

 

i hate to inflate another oil thread with "me too " posts but i have followed the advice in the existing threads in terms of engine flushes (lubeguard 95030) and fuel treatments (crc 1-tank), and i've run the engine nearly a full year (about 6k miles) on a single fill of 5w20 ravenol, and i've used pennzoil platinum 0w20 when doing a short change just after the flushes (probably no more than 50 miles, it made me anxious to wait). it gets much hotter here than it does in the UK so cold weight probably does not matter at all for me. i could use either regularly. but point being: if you read all those threads you will come to the right conclusion for you, there is ample good information there.

 

I've just had it checked over at a Jag specialist and they believe it is the supercharger snout coupling (as it has a slight rattle on engine turn off too, alongside the chattering) and also signs of valve carbon buildup. Cats at front section of exhaust appear to have got very hot with excessive buildup of carvon. Advised carbon clean, and snout replacement.

Also a slight miss or judder when RPM raised as well as tick noise mentioned.. their advise is to get the jobs above done and then investigate further if its still there.

All codes were historical and have been cleared.

Does the above sound reasonable in terms of diagnostics? One chap mentioned the tick could be the cat being stuck in a position due to excessive carbon buildup.

Now waiting on a price for the supercharger snout etc...

 

Hi Again, I had it diagnosed at a local specialist and this is what they're saying at the moment. All sounds fair enough, and am waiting on a quote for snout and carbon clean / oil change.

Hopefully the tick is down to one of the above issues (one chap did mention that the carbon buildup looks like something in the cat could be sticking which could be the ticking noise), makes sense. Albeit slightly concerned that if it isn't then would further diagnostics mean taking the S/C back off..

Also, what else would you recommend replacing whilst the S/C is off? I've read items such as plastic coolant manifold at rear of engine, water hose under S/C..

 

Hi Again,

I've had an inspection done on the car and this is what I've had back (at least these are the main issues) :



I'm waiting for a quote for the snout replacement and carbon clean, and until then doing more research. The coolant level was low, so I'm going to temporarily top that up with distilled water to check if it loses any coolant (I know topping up is not a long term solution, but will get a flush done ASAP along with all other fluids). Would it be worth changing out the water pump whilst they are taking things apart for the supercharger snout, or is that a lot extra work if we find it doesn't need doing (with labour being the most expensive element of all this)?

With regards to the tick, the guy thinks it could be something to do with the front cat being stuck in a position due to the amount of carbon being built up. My concern atm is that if the above works doesn't cure the tick, then it may mean we need to undo all the work that has already been done... I'm unsure as to what other options there are though.

Are there any other components that are worth changing whilst the above work is being carried out?


Thank you.

 

I’ve been through the thread many times and I am unable to see specifically, what is the car, year, mileage.
And have I missed the maintenance history?

The reason I state this is to assist me to discern if the carbon clean is a nicety or a necessity.
As for the snout replacement, many do this. Others overhaul the snout portion.

Oil alone may be the culprit. Or a tensioner, or a faulty bearing... I’m not there to hear it though I hope your mechanics have a history with this engine.
In these cases I would head to the dealer for 1 reason alone; they have the knowledge database. and are able to see the these effects and solutions across many cars, globally. Take a box of beer and discover how everyone wants to weigh in and be very helpful.