As I had done earlier by putting mtotcycle baffles in my pipes to get a different sound , I have now found the shims to change the camber on a 2013 xkr convert.

I had put HR 35 mm springs on my car and Hr 15 mm spacers all the way around. although the car drove great, the rear wheels made me look like a hoodrat while I was driving it. I hated the look of a "Honda civic with the wheels bowed in."

An alignment shopp got on board with me and allowed me to modify shims that were never meant to be put on a xkr. I wrecked five different sets of shims and thicknesses to get the readings under 2 degress back to factory specs. I am not sure of exact number, but I will post it. (Papers are in my dads car)

The alignment guy assured me that safety wasnt a factor. I had modified the shims using my dremel tool. I wanted to post the shops name and address but the owner felt that his liability carrier would have issues cause the shims were modified to fit the xkr

I will post pics on which shims to buy, which dremel insert to use and exactly how much to cut and modify the shim for it to fit

For anyone brave enough to do this, make sure when you take it to the alignment shop to do the rear wheels, that the shop has the software in their alignment machine for you specific xk, xkr xkrs Truly a bigger PITA than could be imagined to accomplish this

 

Did you get an alignment after you installed the springs and before the shims?

Your alignment is now in 100% factory specification? Still would like to see profile pictures of the lowered suspension?

 

Given how cash-strapped Jaguar was during the development of the X150, it's amazing the X150 turned out as good as it did, non-adjustable camber included!

 

Yes I did get alignment before the shims. I was way over 3 degrees. That is what I m referring to as being a hoodrat in a civic

Yes I m back to factory specs. I will post pics of suspension. I want to take pics from 10 feet and 25 feet so you can see that there is no "bow in".

wen i find out how to post the pic of the sheet of the alignment before and after , I will do so. The shop only charged me for 2 alingment cause they had customers come in before me who wanted the chamber fixed and they were at a loss on what to do

YOu need to expect to take a good deal of time when modifying the shim and taking the rear knuckle apart to do this. Patience is the key on doing this. Much more difficult than doing the springs but not as bad as removing the inner bushing of the blower pulley that I screwed up

 

I am not criticising the car. But I am well aware of the hoodrat look after springs and spacers were put on it. I caused the hoodrat look, not the factory!

Two reasons that I didnt want the bow in look. !: I wanted to get back to that Euro-luxury look.

2; My fiance took great enjoyment in poking fun of the hoodrat look. He has the same type of confrontational attitude that I have, and I love him to death for that!!!

 

Please post some pics, even with the coilovers and around ~30mm lowered I have -2.2 and -1.7 camber on my rears. The unevenness is driving me nuts.

 

I have 1.3 and 1.5 neg camber under the stock rear camber settings. I know I definitely do not want more than -2 degrees, probably not even that much, given the wide low profile tires. I pretty much decided against lowering exactly for the reasons shown here. Still, I'd love to see pictures of the shims and the modifications.

 

Hi Albert,

Where do think the rear camber should be for an aggressive street/track alignment. Since my car is a little higher with the Coilover I also can't get more than -1.7 camber on the fronts, although caster as improved.

 

Max

My feeling is that you want no more than a range of 1.2 - 1.5 negative for the wide rears and probably 1.5 neg. for the front. I will, however, talk to my old racing sponsor next week and ask his advice. He owns a racing shop as well as the only Goodyear racing tire distributor in Central California. I want him to do my alignment on my XKR as I am too lazy to do it at home with all the hassle of having to lift and drop the car with every adjustment. It also drives me up the wall that, thus far, on every one of my Jaguars there is too much difference side to side. This XKR has -0.8 camber on the front driver side and -1.5 on the passenger side.

The issue is that you have a dual-use car, meaning you have to make a compromise setup. A track racing setup will wear your tires in no time on the street. However, if you are NOT racing for your life and wealth, just for fun, the street setup will likely give you plenty of enjoyment on the track. I twill get back to you with the recommendations.

 

Thank you Albert, -1.5 is what I was thinking myself but 100% wasn't sure. From what I witnessed in person aligning these cars is not easy. You know its all tied together and Jag does not give you much adjustability which makes it a challenge.

I just don't understand how you can have -.5 of a camber difference with no adjustability. Thats a pretty major difference side to side.

 

You might want to consider the tire manufacturer's recommendations for track camber (if your tire choice has one) and then adjust it from there if you wish for your dual use. If you don't drive a lot on the street, or don't want to sacrifice track performance, you might just want to use the track alignment. Having said that, after 5 or 6 track days my stock Dunlops on stock alignment didn't show uneven wear. I adjust pressures so mild scuffing on the shoulder just went up to the triangle marks provided for that purpose.

Bruce