Mine has 135,000 miles and is my everyday car. My Iphone 5 has worked flawlessly over Bluetooth for the past two years. About 2 days ago, it lost connection over Bluetooth. When I select phone on the main screen, I get the screen below. Everything is grayed out except the YES button. Pushing it does nothing. Timeout is set to off. All I can do from that screen is either push YES or return to the main screen. Iphone is in discover mode and has no problem connecting to other Bluetooth devices. Any suggestions?

 

Maybe you need to reset the electronics in your car. That involves disconnecting the battery for several minutes. The downside to doing this is that you will have to reset everything such as seat memory, radio stations, mirrors, steering wheel, etc.

Another thought search frozen bluetooth phone app on the forum and see if you come up with anything. Good luck

 

Instead of resetting all the electronics you may want to try just resetting the bluetooth unit itself by unplugging it for a few seconds then back in... that it is your trunk area do it with the car in "off" position. By any chance was there maybe a recent OS update on your phone that could have caused that to happen?

 

I know the Bluetooth is somewhere in the trunk area. I think I have a general idea of what it looks like. Can anyone give me more particulars as to its location?

 

Conv or coupe?

Conv you remove the 4 thumb screws holding the back cover on in the trunk area and remove the back cover. On the lower right side you will see a stack of 3 items - DVD/Nav, some othern electronics item, Bluetooth module in the middle, it will have 3 connectors on it, one smaller round one and a larger gray connector... that gray connector is the power it will have a securing type of connector which will require you to push down on it to release the connector to remove. Remove that connector for maybe 10 seconds then replace and give your BT module a try. There was a comprehensive tutorial with pics but not seeing it now. It is very simple to do should take a couple minutes... the toughest part on the convertible is removing the luggage separator and replacing that the rest is super easy.

 

Exactly what I needed. I've replaced the battery so I'm familiar with that area of the car. I won't get a chance to do this until Saturday. If it doesn't help, I'll try disconnecting the battery for a full reset of everything. I'll post the results.

 

If you've gotten to the battery you've done the hard part, the connector on the bluetooth module is quick and easy. You'll see it is @10" long by maybe 1 1/2" thick, black, should be in the middle of the stack, you can't miss it as said 3 connectors on it the large gray one is the power... whole process shouldn't take more than maybe 10-15 minutes. Pressing on the connector itself will release it, sometimes takes a minute or two to figure out how it releases but you'll be fine. When you press it back in the connector will snap back in

 

iOS 9.something just got pushed. Could be that, as most iOS upgrades really aren't (upgrades).

 

Success!
I discovered some time ago for the convertible that if you open the top halfway you can from the top remove the four screws and the cover for the battery compartment and work on these components from there. However, a warning that I address below. I did that and a photo is attached. I found the bluetooth module and I attach 2 photos. One shows the big gray plug. I have my doubts that this is a power plug because when I removed it, the connector looked a lot like an RF connector. Anyway, that didn’t solve the problem.
So I decided I would disconnect the battery and do a full reset. However, when I did that and lost the power that was holding the top and tonneau up, they dropped down. In the end, that required the manual top reset procedure which is not complicated but you’ve got to follow the owners manual instructions carefully. I learned about that procedure when I first got the car in 2007. All is back where it was supposed to be and bluetooth is again operating as before.
The battery disconnect also solved another problem with the navigation system. About a week ago I noted that whenever I used the navigation system it would come up with DC as the search area, 1/16 mile on the map and North on the map. It would not hold my normal parameters. The reset solved the problem and now it holds the last entered parameters.


If I had a dollar for everytime I had to unplug a computer at one time or another to get rid of the gltiches, I’d be rich. Just another one.

 

sorry Meng the power is that large black connector with the blue tape on yours. The center one. My mistake.

Sounds like it worked out for you. It also sounds like your issue may be one of low battery causing ghost issues, have you run it down before? Do you use a battery maintainer?

 

The battery is only a year old and I drive this car every day. I doubt it's the battery getting run down. Rather, I'm fairly certain it's just another ghost issue. I actually think the two issues are unrelated in how they happened but related as to the fix. I have a vague recollection as to Bluetooth pushing some buttons in the middle of a call and it was after that when the screen lockup occurred. As to the Nav issue, I suspect it occurred during some work I had done - had to replace both front wheel bearings, do a front brake job and have the transmission pan replaced - apparently it has a built in filter and should be serviced at 80,000 miles - the fluid that goes in it cost a small fortune. It was a few days after all that work that I noticed the Nav problem.

 

It is very possible, probably likely, that while that work was getting performed that due to the car not being in "locked" status that the battery was run down during your repairs... those symptoms you mentioned sound like the classic "battery low" issues. If you're driving it daily for a decent distance that should reconcile itself quickly or even better by overnight with a maintainer will remedy that. Either way sounds like you got the major issues resolved for the time being which is good.

And yes that trans oil is rather costly fortunately you only need to do it every 60K or so (Amazon sells that fluid at a decent price), hopefully you had an indi do it and not the dealership as they charge ridiculous prices for that service.

 

I daily my XK to in the DC metro area! Glad you have your Bluetooth issue worked out!

 

Glad you were able to solve your bluetooth/nav problems.

 

Well I guess I posted too soon. All was restored to normal this morning and was normal on my 13 mile drive to work. Car was parked outside my office for 9 hours and when I came out to go home tonight, both problems were back. I replaced the battery a year ago and I've driven almost 1000 miles since I had the wheel bearings and brake work done about 3 weeks ago. I guess I better start checking the forum for battery low issues.

 

If your battery has been dead in the past or just low those are symptoms that manifest like you're seeing. If you've got a charger or maintainer now's the time to give it a go. Even a "new" or newer battery that been drawn low can cause this issues.

My uneducated guess is that when they were doing the work they didn't keep the car in "lock" mode so it stood in "standby" which is a pretty good current draw just sitting there with all the computers alive. Most here love their Ctek chargers, I'm running a Deltrans Battery Tender Plus with good luck either should rectify your issues. Just driving the car really doesn't bring the battery to its top level. Even if the battery is good it won't hurt putting on a charger/maintainer

 

So, the saga continues. Looks like I have a defective battery. The battery was replaced in March of 2015 because the original was 8 years old. I replaced it with a Duralast T8-DLG with a 5 year warranty. Yesterday, I stopped by Autozone where I bought it and had them do a load test. It was at 68% charge. Overnight for 12 hours I put it on a 6 amp charger. Went back to Autozone today and the load test showed an 84% charge. They tested cranking amps and the alternator output and both were good. Based on that, they are going to replace the battery and the new one will be installed this afternoon. I didn't even have to ask for a replacement. We'll see if anything is different after it is installed.

 

You'd be better to swap to an AGM battery versus what you're running. even if you have to pay a difference. Secondly don't think because this is a new one that it is fully charged, it still should be put on a charger to bring it to top level. Lastly, get yourself a maintainer - again most here swear by the Ctek, I run a Deltrans Battery tender plus, either one will make sure you don't run into this issue again. What you had happen was the classic problem of low voltage... once a lead acid is brought down it is forever diminished even if it was only a year old

 

Got the new battery yesterday. Again, I must say that I was impressed with how the people at Autozone didn't hesitate to just replace it. It's a $160 battery. All appears solved. Worked normally yesterday and was normal this morning after sitting in the garage overnight. Only trouble was with the luggage cover. If there is anything I hate about my XK it's that damn luggage cover and how it has to be just right for the top to operate. Anyway, after getting the battery installed, I just couldn't get rid of the notice that the cover wasn't properly positioned. I must have adjusted it 20 times. Finally I checked the forum and found a posting about the metal clip on the cover used by the sensor. Went out to the car and sure enough the clip was missing. The posted photo was perfect. After rooting around in the spare wheel well I found it. That solved that problem.

 

Note: I've since discovered that these photos are not the Bluetooth module. I wondered why such a module would have an RF connector. I'm pretty sure these photos are of the satellite radio module.