I thought about that and doing the same to the new one, even so far as removing the flange entirely and using a new washer since the washer could be put in place first, but not sure if that would be strong enough?

 

Use the same strength bolt and it shouldn't be a problem. Washer headed bolts a use to simplify installation. A separate washer is not a problem.

 

Came up with a possible solution. I can trim off a bit of the flange kj07XK suggested and replace with a harder, 12.9 v. 10.9 for OE, socket cap bolt and washer. I feel weird not going OEM, but just a little hesitant to tear down that much of the rear end for one bolt. When it's time to do the control arms then I'll probably replace with the correct bolt. Unless someone thinks this is a bad idea?

 

That should do the trick.

 

Jag sent me new nuts with the bolts and I guess I misread this as the tip of the bolt now only sticks up about 1/4" and not enough for the new nut. Sounds and looks, by the pic you posted, the nut is not needed.


And I guess I misread this as well. I ordered the bolts as listed in your Alcon parts list on page 2 of this thread. The bracket to knuckle bolts I received are the same length as the one I received from Jaguar, 60mm, but I was expecting one about 5mm longer. The fastener store did not have any 65mm in length so I am using the 60mm socket cap as noted above. It is screwed in now with enough rotations that I am confident it is secure, and complete tear down problem solved at the moment. While the new bolts are higher hardness, they are black hardened steel and not coated like the OEM ones and will rust...any chance they could seize in the alloy knuckle?

 

Oh, this is so much fun...

Completed the RH side for the park brakes and discovered 2 issues...the parking brake cable had a lot of slack so I just pushed it inside the sleeve and remounted the wheel BUT the cable sleeve is rubbing against the tire as the entire assembly is now too long and has a big loop. This did not seem right to me, so I decided to check JEPC to see if there was a different version of the cables and guess what? The XKR cable is part number C2C31910 & C2C31910 but the Alcon version is C2P14737 & C2P14738. I did not see these on the parts list provided on page 2 of this thread but I suspect the Alcon version is shorter. Can anyone confirm if what I have found is correct?

EDIT: More fun...decided to check if there is a difference in the EPB and mine is C2Z3205, the Alcon one is C2P15769...does that mean I need to change that too?

 

Damn this is not as easy as hoped eh?

The X350 XJR and S-Type R from 2003-2005 has the same sort of separate brembo park brake caliper, perhaps have a look at those models and see if there is any interchangeability?

Simon's XJR had the same sort of factory park brake arrangement as your XKR, so whatever he did should be what you need to do...

 

That is true however those part numbers are also unique to those cars and since I have neither intimate knowledge or experience with those parts it would be a gamble if they would fit, unless Simon or someone knows for certain what the differences are.

 

I can't say about the lengths of the cables. But I have not changed the cables. I have only re-routed them to aim in the correct place for the now repositioned caliper attachment point.

Its difficult to describe and ive got the car in storage for winter so I can't take a picture. But when fitted with the 326mm standard brakes the cable runs around the rear of the shock/ spring and then loops forward to the leading caliper.
With the Alcons the park brake caliper can be thought of as a trailing caliper. So the cable needs to loop around the other side of the shock/ spring. I.e. Around the front edge of the shock/ spring and then rearwards toward the brembo park beaker caliper.
This way keeps the bend radius of the cable correct and the reinforcement already on the cable rests against the subframe edge forward of the shock/ spring.

Doing this is is rather fiddly with the spring still in place but it's possible. Hopefully this helps and stops the cable touching the wheel.
Mine has been like this for 2 and a bit years with no ill effects

hope you get it sorted out okay!

 

Well if yours worked, that's a good sign. I didn't think of routing them around the front side of the coil, but I'll give it a try if there is enough length. There was also slack with the parking cable itself.

To attach the cable to the caliper lever I pressed it towards the rear of the car, compressing the pads but the lever did not return to its previous state leaving the brakes engaged but no tension on the cables. I thought the brakes would only be engaged when the cables are pulled.

 

The park brake motor pulls and pushes on the cable to engage or release the caliper, this is why the end positions need to be calibrated electronically.

 

Heard back from Jaguar, the C2P15769 actuator listed in JEPC as exclusive to the Portfolio with Alcon, has been superseded by C2P18891 which now cross references to 2007 through 2015 XK, XKR, XKR-S & Portfolio models, depending on where you look yet I am still seeing different part numbers for each variant.

Going to put everything back together today and fingers crossed it works as-is.

 

So I put everything back together. There was not enough length to route the cable around the front of the coil over.

I turned on the car and followed the cluster prompt for the reset. Heard the actuator operate and was greeted by a red handbrake failure message. Tried a couple more times and nothing changed. Do I need to do this through SDD?

 

In SDD, under the Service Functions tab, there is a routine called Park Brake Service Position or something like that.

This drives the motor to the fully open position, it's meant for when you change the rear brake pads or the park brake pads.

If you run that, then start the car, it will ask you to set the park brake, and that should set the on/off positions correctly.

 

That was it! Brakes work flawlessly, strapped the excess cable loop to the tie rods to keep them away from the wheels. If I ever find out what the difference is with the Brembo cables, I may go ahead and make it proper down the road as they are only $60 a piece.

BIG THANK YOU to Simon & Cameron for their assistance on this entire process. It really is a very easy exchange to perform, only lack of experience with the procedure was at times a bit daunting. Their help got it done.

 

 

Although they have been operating with no issues,last night it dawned on me that I had fitted the calipers on the wrong sides of the car as I was solely relying on the re-seller's LH & RH tags and not really thinking this through very well, also does not make this easy with out photos of a proper install. So today I removed the park calipers and swapped them around. This of course solved the cable length problem and instead of the park cable forming a large "U" shape and strapping it to the toe bar, it is now in an "S" shape. Honestly there was a lot less tension on the cable with the way I had it the first time but I did have to keep it strapped down and the cable could potentially have com in contact with the sidewall of the tire. Additionally my concern is a bit of the cable now fits though the coils of the springs and I am wondering if this may affect suspension travel.

See the pic below.

Does anyone have pictures of the rear brakes minus road wheel of a factory Alcon equipped XKR that might how how it is supposed to be?

 

I wouldn't want the cable passing through the coil.

I can't get you the pictures you need for a couple more weeks yet, sorry mate.

 

Kermit the Frog's words of wisdom: "It ain't easy ..."

But when you're finally finished and everything works flawlessly, the satisfaction is monumental.

 

I also agree. Having the cable in the coil spring is not a good idea.

I don't believe you will see any vehicle with cables, wires or anything else positioned inside the coiled springs.

Over a period of time, the cable will slowly be destroyed and probably crushed were the cable will eventually result in a problem.

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