My key fobs both magically decided they don't wanna work anymore. Brand new batteries and all. Brought them to the dealer to get them programmed. Turns out they're somehow trash now. They send or receive no signal when plugged into their device. 1000.11 us dollars to give me 2 0new ones. What are my options considering when you plug them into the port and they start the car

 

If they still work to start your car from the port, I think they're still paired to your car and are not "orphaned". I'm suspicious of that dealer's knowledge, since I've never heard of both smartkeys dying at the same time. I think something else is amok. I would take them to another Jaguar dealer and have them checked again.

Your location would be helpful.

 

Both of them crapping out at once is highly suspicious...

Try to find someone who has a test unit which can check if the radio functions of the keys are still working, maybe a shopping mall key-cut place or even a car audio shop.

This is the one I have


It can see if the keyfob is actually sending out the radio signal.

If the keys are still broadcasting, then the problem most likely lays in the KVM (Keyless Entry Module) in the car.

 

Wow that does seem a little over the top ... would've been nice if they worked with you and gave you a break on programming since they charge for at least an hour and they can do them both in considerably less time than that.

My key fob unlocks / locks the car and starts up - Except if I try to put it in the center slot , it just keeps getting ejected all the time

 

great idea. I've seen similar machines at home depot and walmart that can test the fob's signal for key cutting ( just wish that they could also get me a whole new programmed fob for $69 - lol )

 

They said they hooked it up to the device and they couldn't get a frequency to or from them. They said the one key is completely dead and won't start the car at all. This is capital luxury cars in Albany NY.

Mind you this is the same dealership that back in Sept told me the actuator for my differential was shot and that's why I had an ediff fault (1900.00 repair) The light turned off when I picked the car up because I couldn't afford it. Hasn't been back on since. I've beat on the car pretty good a few times since then.

 

Honestly, I would verify the fob battery is right side up and not a dead one too ... Sounds very strange that both would just die like that. Swing by a hardware/key place and check to see if any signal is sent from them when pressing a button before committing to new keys at the dealership..

GL

 

I honestly tried two new batteries myself. They tried new batteries as well. I just don't understand how both can magically have fried antennas or whatver. The second fob has sat on a key shelf and hasn't been used but a few times over the past few years. That as well has all the batteries testes in it. They said it was dead dead as in wouldn't even turn the car when plugged in. I guess my best hope is to hope it's literally the case

 

Its your money, but I would follow the advice above, and get an independent verification that the fobs aren't transmitting. Because if they are, it's probably a module in the car, which would make more sense, as it would affect both fobs identically.
If they replace the fobs, and the new ones don't work, you're out that money and will still have to pay to get a faulty module in the car replaced.

 

You've definitely made The point. Any advice one What type of business could do this for me. Whether it be a corporate chain, or just the type of business in General? I'm not pig headed at all. I do know I wanted my next car to be a rwd ftype, however my dealer/ constant electrical type issues with 2/3 jaguars have killed my passion for the brand

 

See suggestions in posts #3 and #5. Call a few places until you find one that has the capability.

 

Many of the 'constant electrical type issues' on these forums are the result of a failing or weak battery. The main vehicle battery, not the ones in the key fobs.

Use a voltmeter to see what the voltage is across the battery terminals, after a ten minute rest, with the ignition in the OFF position. If it's less than 12.5 volts, the battery should be replaced or you will have random DTCs and other 'mysterious' faults, which can be very annoying.

 

I'd love it to be that. I put a brand new step up from oem batter in a month ago. I did this due to my last post complaining about a check engine light that when code pulled said my ecu was corrupted and my vin was missing. I fixed that. However the fob troubles didn't end unfortunately.
E-Diff light still off though lol