Had my 2010 XKR for 8 months now, loving every day with it, but financially at least the honeymoon period is over and now bits need sorting, but its expected! Just done a normal service, oil and filters, wanted to get coolant changed as there is no record, thought it would be a good idea to change water pump as well as no record of that being changed either (some way to check, external model number/mark I can look for to determine if its the original?) and im at 68k miles now. No pump symptoms really, no smell, coolant does drop over time but slowly, been checking the level every 1k or so.

Also having a central locking problem, drivers door wont lock with key, has to be manually locked from passenger side, then use the key (although I haven't checked if i can still open the door or not, just assumed handle pressed in = manual lock). Im guessing its doing to be some part of the door lock module thats broken, is it worth popping the door card first, or should I just buy the module because its the likely culprit?

Future maintenance
Gearbox fluid - going to do at zf specialist 70-72k mileage
diff fluid - sometime this year
SC belt - 80k miles?
Anything ive missed?

Appreciate any help

 

Replace the water outlet with the updated version if that hasn't been done already. Requires removal of the supercharger, which than allows you to drain and refill the supercharger oil and check the snout coupling for failure.

Given the age of the vehicle, change the brake fluid as well.

 

Throwing parts at a Jaguar is a very expensive method of troubleshooting.

I'd take the door card off first to determine if it's a mechanical (linkage) OR an electrical (module/latch) issue. The most common cause of locking issues is a failed microswitch in the latch.

Graham

 

If you haven't already done it the brake fluid should be flushed. If you need to remove the SC for any reason all the coolant hoses should be replaced and the thermostat. I changed my thermostat and all the the coolant hoses and plastic parts when my car was in the shop under warranty for the SC isolator. The dealer messed up and had to replace my SC because they bent the actuator rod so I had a new SC installed with new SC fluid. You're getting up in miles so I would do the water pump and all the belts if you have the opportunity; otherwise I would just keep a close eye on it and your water temperature. The timing chain tensioners should be checked for noise. Although my XKR only has 15K miles on it I always check for unusual sounds from the engine and change my oil every 2K miles. The oil tolerances in the 5L are very tight and oil is cheap, so I frequently change the oil--I'm also OCD with my XKR. Your battery probably has been changed. A 5-6 year battery should be swabbed out, these cars don't like low voltage.

 

power steering fluid, perhaps. you can remove some to have a look at it, and at the filter inside the reservoir. i'm at 80k miles and in the same boat, headed to the shop this week for all these plus a small oil leak and the PS fluid. want to be ready for the track in the fall.

 

There's also the rear coolant crossover but if you're going through that much labor effort might as well do all the pipes or just wait until something fails, including the water pump. While common failure points, not ALL in circulation have these problems, it's a coin toss.

 

70-72k is pushing it for the trans fluid... I believe ZF recommended 60k intervals.

 

Yes thats on the list, just waiting on a good pressurized bleeder

I know, im being lazy and should just check it. But if it was a mechanical issue surely I wouldn't be able to open the door? Do the central locking and handle have separate linkages?

Im quite strict on oil changes myself, even when I had my old 95 XJ, 1 year/6k miles for me. I changed the battery for an AGM in December as it was on the original which started failing to hold a charge when winter came around, been all good since. Im hesitant to change too many cooling pipes as my system is good for now, and I dont want to invite trouble, but then there is the risk of sudden failure!

I can hear the power steering pump for time to time with the window down, so maybe some fresh fluid will help. I too have a small oil weep, mechanic friend reckons timing cover seal or front crank seal, we cleaned it up, and will inspect in a few months, see whats returned. Apparently this EDGE professional oil has UV in it so may be useful. Not sure i could track mine, I havent really pushed close to its limits in the corners yet, our UK roads are a bit too narrow for that, no runoffs either!

Yeah thats where im at, because I dont want a failure, but ive got 4 new tyres needed in a few months, and i think gearbox fluid change is probably more vital.

Well I bought it at 62k, decided 70-72k just to give me chance to save a bit for it. Its shifting fine at the moment, can be jerky when cold for first mile or so. I went though alot of gearbox oil changes with the old XJ to get it shifting nice.

 

If you're being lazy, you'll be horrified at the procedure to remove/refit the door latch. This is what it looks like behind the door card:




Have a look at my thread on replacing the outer handle and door reinforcement:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...cement-210597/

The exterior and interior door handles are combined electrical/mechanical operation.

Graham

 

For the ZF gearbox fluid change, that's something a ton of different shops can handle. Near me, the VW/Porsche/Audi/BMW shop is great for this. They used this unit in a LOT of different cars. I wouldn't pay this out personally given its only about $200 to do yourself with a ZF pan/filter (its a pan AND a filter in one part!!!) but I understand if you do, theres plenty of specialty shops familiar with the ZF 6HP26. Do it every 60k.

For brake fluid, I like my Schwaben 3 liter brake bleeder pump that has additional adapters for other tasks; I tend to flush brakes every 2-4 years. Just used it last week to do the filling of the transmission in my X3 during a fluid change where you pump it in from the side like a diff or old manual transmission. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...BoCu-cQAvD_BwE

I like changing Supercharger oil every 30-60k. It's just two little bottles of AC Delco Supercharger oil (4oz each) and a syringe with a WD40 straw zip tied into the suction hose; then you can extract it and fill it. It's a one hour job and relatively clean and easy. I have this syringe and have bought this kit before (used on my XJR, and both XKRs): https://www.ebay.com/itm/11135831107...sAAOSwIzNXO1Hs. Keep the syringe and you can save a bit next time by just buying the 2 bottles of fluid. Plus a nice syringe is helpful occasionally for car work.

I receive nothing from those links; I just posted for example.

For belts? The 4.2L can be done with super simple tools for cheap. I think $50 for the pair of belts on Rockauto and then I recall using a longer breaker bar (and maybe a socket? It's been two years!). Was a quick affair but I have thin arms. I replaced at like 55-60k since they made a bit of noise when I started it after a winter storage. I think I went with Gates or Continental for them but any good belt is a good belt!

 

We did the drop and top ups on my old XJ, but that had a dead simple 4 speed ZF. On such a powerful complex car id rather leave it to the experts. Theres a ZF specialist up in Glasgow that only do transmissions, rebuilds, new TC's so Id trust their work, only heard good things aswell. Decided to leave outlet pipe till supercharger refurb, which il do at 80k i think, if it goes in the meantime so be it. Il leave the SC oil for now as well because the refurb will do the little plastic coupling in the snout, and with the SC off to do the outlet pipe itl make the whole process simpler.

Quick question, talking with Hatfields Jaguar who can supply me with the AJ813909 pump, they are saying it should be changed with this tube that sits behind it (C2Z18658), Its only 16 quid, looking at the drawing, does it feed oil to the water pump bearing? And should be changed with the pump?