Since owning my 2008 XKR there have been a number of things I have done to it, repalced all discs and pads for MTEC cross drillled and groved for better heat disapation, new head liner, head light restoration as they had yellowed, where I could LED bulb upgrades (Canbus compatible bulbs cause ligth failure errors) repalced the head unit for tesla style touch screen with 360 camera system. New belts, tensioners and water pump, sorted the AC as it had no blower resistor and A/C compressor was leaking. It was during this test that it was noticed some of the rumber on the control arms and drop link was split I also noticed a grumble so suspected a wheel bearing.

I have done one side so far (rear left) and this was a job and and a half. I purchused new hubs and they went in the freezer to chill them down -13 degrees to be precise. I also purchased an after market complete rear set consisting of upper and lower arms, drop link and track rods. Also I bought new ABS sensors, doing homework I also bought new bolts, nuts etc just in case cutting was involved. So first piece of advice as I did not want to bleed the brakes but as the rear pipe routes through the upper control arm at some point you have to. You can get away with leaving the hand brake cable attached.

Once the caliper and disc at removed its a good time to get your high powered impact gun on the hub nut to losen but not remove yet, its also good to have dosed everything with liberal amounts of WD40. Then its time to remove the track rod bolt and the lower bolt holding the hub on. I had to go and purchase a pully extractor set, but first more WD40 and a blow torch, once cooled I wound the hub nut to the end of the spine, put on the extract and hut it with the impact gun and it finally seperated.

I used this time to knock out the old hub, it came out in 2 taps after removing the 4 bolts. I cleaned the mounting plate and put a light coating of copper grease where the bearing would seat after ensuring it was clean. Wearing gloves, I dashed fro mthe freezer wiht the new hub and this prep paid of as the new hub slid in with ease. Thread lock on the bolts and it was ready to go on the car. I did pack some grease in the back of the hub and in the centre where the drive shaft would go.

Removing the bolt whihc holds the shock to the lower arm involved 3 goes with my big impact gun, blow torch and more WD40. The bolt goes through the arm and the tip it exposed to dirt and water can cause corrosion, the other bolts holding the upper and lower arms came out without much fuss.

The drop link is a pain just because of access, the top nut is seated in a rubber bush and as usual started to spin in the ball joint either licking pliers or 7mm socket on the tip and a spanner in the gap of the bush and it will come away.

Lastly the final nut holding the track rod under the car, fiddly to say the least. Access is limited I managed to undo it enough to there was a gap I could get a metal blade of the reciprocating saw on to make short work of it.

I used a wired brush to clean the teeth on the drive shaft for the ABS, cleaned all faces where bolts and nuts would touch and put a light coating of copper grease.

Now the reverse, upper control arm new nuts and bolts but not fully tightened yet, I used the old track rod to guage the new one and bolted that on under the car. Again fiddly but not like before.

Lower arm went on the bolt closed the rease with its weird nan bread looking nut wash being trouble some, even with a new nut, in the end thread lock with a new standard locking nut.

The hub went on took a little bit to get the splines to line up, I had ensured the splines were clean annd added some grease. I should ahve mentioned earlier the hub nut is 36mm so had to go buy this impact socket.

Getting the track rod to line up with the hub took some doing its a tight fit, I had to use the bolt to adjust the mount i nthe track rod end so it would slide into the hub. I had also coated the track rod with some copper grease to protect the threads as it will need tracked later.
The shock bolted in no problem, again thread lock

I put a jack under the lower arm and put it under load then tightened all the blots on the arms etc.

I had fun wiht the caliper, so learn from my fail. I now had to disconnect the hand brake cable as I forgot to route it before and had to disconenct the brake pipe to route it through the middle of the upper control arm. When I came to reattach it though it pissed out brake fluid, I had forgotten it needs crash washers. Jag will not sell you the washers only the complete brake hose. I found you can buy them for £3.90 for 2 washers online. Jag wanted something like £69 for the left side, and something like £140 for the right side, made no sense but really did not want to pay the total of £212. IO found a Jag specialist in Thatcham near where I live, they gave me 2 washers.

I also needed to twist the piston back in the caliper so it would the pads gave enough space for the disc. Brake bleed done with help of my daughter and that is one side down. A test drive, followed by a few whiskies and some pain meds and the bank holiday will be the drivers side. for me it was a days worth of work, I would ahve been shorter if I had the tools and washers etc, hopefully the drivers side will be quicker.

Tools: Good socket set, impact sockets including 36mm for hub nut, high torque impact gun, spanner set, 2 x jacks and axl stands, locking pliers (long reach), blow torch.
Parts: DOT 4 break fluid, copper grease, grease, thread lock, lots of kitchen roll/ rags, WD40 (lots)
Car parts, Copper crash washers (essential), Spare bollts for upper arms, lower arms, suspension , hub, 2 x hubs, rear suspension arm kit
Suppliers: Berkshire Jag components (XK150-RSAK-R), Advaned Factors for the bolts, Toolstation for the puller kit