I am working on replacing all the relays and fuses as part of a water ingress remediation. From reading and searching on the board, it seems that there is no "relay diagram" in the same way that there is a "fuse diagram", and the only apparent way to find relay part numbers is to either translate the Electrical Diagram or physically all the relays and check them for part numbers.

2 things:

1. I am creating a short spreadsheet of relay part numbers and locations for the 3 Junction Boxes as I go, and will post it once done.
2. There is 1 relay in the Auxiliary Junction Box that does not have a part number embossed on it, and the labeling on the top of the relay does not turn up any results in searches online. Can someone translate the Electrical Diagram for me and tell me what the specs on this relay are supposed to be so that I can try to run down an equivalent for the Tyco relay that is in there currently?

 

If I'm understanding your question, the electrical diagrams don't provide specs on the relays. That particular one is referenced as R2 (RBD Relay Link) and is fed power from the battery post in the lower right of the pic. It services fuses
F4 = Ariel antenna,
F21 = Integrated audio module, Control Panel, Information and Entertainment module
F35 = Amp

Does this help you?

 

It is helpful, but doesn’t really answer what I’m after. Mostly all the other relays in the junction boxes (including engine bay) are embossed on the side with a model number, Amp rating, etc. If you trust your Previous Owner (and their shop), then replacing relays with exactly what is already plugged in is fine. However in cases like this, where the relay is not marked in any way with a usable part number, and is only 2 blade, and there is no explicitly clear instruction in any of the manuals as to the specs required, it gets dicey. I suspect the relay in my AJB is not correct spec - but I haven’t found a way to tell what is the correct spec.

Knowing what functions/circuits the relay serves helps, but a factory spec for the relay (or a part number for the Bosch or FoMoCo relay) would be even better.

Anyone with an 07/08 convertible want to go pull that relay for me and see if it is embossed?

 

Same relay in my 07, no other markings on it.

 

I appreciate that.

Today's lesson is: Trust but verify. When you buy a junction box on ebay or from a salvage yard, or anywhere else, do NOT trust that the person pulling and advertising it is going to accurately describe what they have. The Central Junction Box in the driver footwell and the Auxiliary Junction Box behind the rear seat are in the same housing, so if they are stripped of all connectors, relays, and fuses, they look exactly the same, but I suspect strongly that the internal circuit boards are different. It isn't just a different combination/layout of fuses and relays that makes them different, it's the actual internal board circuitry.

When/if you are looking for a replacement Junction Box, be sure to look at the information printed on the side of it. I posted pictures below that are from a confirmed CJB and a confirmed AJB. The general part number appears to be 6W83-14A073-** on line 1. I don't know what the two end letters signify, but I have seen probably 2 dozen different letter combinations, so I don't know that they are necessarily relevant to anything functional, and may be only descriptive in nature. There is also what appears to be serial number (line 2), production number (line 4), and production date/time stamp info (line 5).

Line 3 seems to be the key differentiator that needs to be verified before buying/using in your car. The Central Junction Boxes are marked "FSJB" in line 3, which is the acronym identifying the Central Junction Box. The Auxiliary says "RSJB" in line 3, which is the acronym identifying the internal circuit board as an Auxiliary Junction Box.

TL;DR - Save yourself time, money, and headache if you need to replace these. Don't just go by a visual of the layout. Confirm the circuitry by checking the side coding.

 

Hi PBRStGang... I have a 2009 XKR coupe and also have that same relay.I did a quick internet search for that relay this morning, and out of curiosity, called a Tyco reseller who's phone number was listed (five one six - eight two six - six two zero zero). Spoke with Larry and, after looking at his information, he said the relay is no longer made but he had a source. However, he said it would take about a $300 minimum order for him to get it. He also said a racing products team called him earlier in the week looking for the same relay. Also found this spec sheet (below) that might help you in your search. Good luck.

 

PBRStGang,
Here's something that might help even more. Go to the Mouser Electronics website search tool for Tyco relay TE Connectivity Automotive Relays (https://www.mouser.com/c/electromech...20Connectivity). Key in the specs of the Tyco VF4 relay from the spec sheet I posted in my previous reply.And then click on "Apply Filters" below those selections and you will get the cross-referenced relay, TE Connectivity 7-1393302-7 (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...pcKURipA%3D%3D). It says one relay is $8.45. And the TE Connectivity - Power Relay F4 spec sheet below shows details for you to compare with the Tyco VF4 relay spec sheet. And you can compare dimensions with the one in your car. Hope this helps.

 

Amazing homework by @KurtC

Sorry this is long, but I used a AI (I have access to a beefed up version) and other than Tyco being renamed, he is spot on.

### Revised Analysis
- Tyco: Still indicates Tyco Electronics (now TE Connectivity), a manufacturer of relays.
- ++0629: Likely a date code or batch number, not critical for identification.
- VF4-111-Z01: The part number or variant identifier. The VF4 series is typically automotive, but a 2-pin configuration is unusual for this family, as most VF4 relays have 4 or 5 pins (e.g., coil and contacts).
- Portugal: Manufacturing origin, not relevant to specs or replacement.

A 2-pin relay suggests a simpler design—most likely a single-pole, single-throw (SPST) relay with just a coil and no additional features like a diode, resistor, or changeover contacts. In this case:
- The 2 pins are likely the coil terminals (e.g., 85 and 86 in standard automotive relay notation).
- The contacts (e.g., 30 and 87) might be wired separately or integrated into the board in the ancillary junction box, meaning the relay itself only controls the coil circuit.

However, the VF4 series is not typically associated with 2-pin designs. This raises the possibility that:
1. The "VF4-111-Z01" marking might not align with standard VF4 nomenclature, or it’s a custom variant.
2. You’re observing only part of the relay (e.g., a broken or obscured pin section) or a misidentified component.

Assuming it’s genuinely a 2-pin relay in the VF4 family, it’s likely a 12V DC coil (common in automotive junction boxes) with a current rating suited to the ancillary system (e.g., 20A–40A).

### Specifications Inference
Without a datasheet for "VF4-111-Z01," we can hypothesize:
- Coil Voltage: 12V DC (standard for automotive applications).
- Contact Rating: Possibly 20A–40A, typical for ancillary circuits (e.g., lights, pumps).
- Configuration: SPST-NO (normally open), with the contacts handled externally since only the coil pins are visible.
- Mounting: Attached to a board, suggesting a PCB-mounted or plug-in design with just coil connections exposed.

### Replacement Options
A 2-pin relay replacement must match the coil voltage (likely 12V) and be compatible with the board’s mounting and current requirements. Since the VF4 series doesn’t typically include 2-pin models, we’ll consider both Tyco relays and generic alternatives:
1. Tyco/TE Connectivity Possibilities:
- VF4 Variants: If "VF4-111-Z01" is a custom 2-pin relay, no standard VF4 catalog part matches directly. The closest VF4 models (e.g., VF4-11F11) are 4-pin. It’s possible this is a misread or a proprietary part.
- Other TE Relays: TE’s V23074 or PCJ series includes PCB-mounted 2-pin relays (12V, 20A–30A), but these aren’t labeled "VF4." You’d need to confirm pin spacing and specs.
2. Generic 2-Pin Automotive Relays:
- Hella 933332051: A 12V, 40A SPST relay, sometimes available in 2-pin coil-only configurations for specific boards.
- Song Chuan 896H-1CH-C: A 12V, 20A–30A PCB relay, adaptable to 2-pin setups if contacts are external.
- Omron G8V-RH: A micro relay (12V, 20A) with coil-only pin options for PCB mounting.

### Practical Steps
Since a 2-pin VF4 relay is unconventional, here’s how to proceed:
- Inspect the Relay and Board:
- Confirm it’s truly 2-pin (no hidden or broken pins).
- Check the board for additional contact terminals (e.g., soldered connections that act as 30 and 87).
- Note pin spacing (e.g., 5mm or 7.62mm) for PCB compatibility.
- Test the Coil: Apply 12V across the pins to see if it activates (use a multimeter to check resistance, typically 50–200 ohms for a 12V relay coil).
- Cross-Reference: If it’s vehicle-specific, the ancillary junction box’s manual or schematic might list the relay’s full specs.

### Where to Source Replacements
- Auto Parts Stores: O’Reilly or AutoZone might carry universal 12V PCB relays (e.g., Bosch or Denso mini relays) that can be adapted.
- Online:
- DigiKey/Mouser: Search "12V PCB relay 2-pin" for TE Connectivity or similar brands.
- eBay: Look for "Tyco VF4 relay" or "2-pin automotive relay" to match visually.
- Salvage: If it’s from a vehicle, a junkyard part from the same model might yield an exact match.

### Final Recommendation
A direct replacement for "VF4-111-Z01" as a 2-pin relay isn’t clear from standard VF4 documentation. I’d suggest a generic 12V, 20A–40A PCB relay with 2-pin coil connections (e.g., TE Connectivity PCJ-112D3M or a similar micro relay). To confirm:
- Provide the vehicle/equipment context or a photo of the relay/board (I can analyze images if uploaded).
- Should I search the web/X for "VF4-111-Z01 2-pin" to dig deeper?

For now, a universal 12V 2-pin relay from an electronics supplier, matched to the board’s pin layout, is your best bet. Let me know how to refine this further!

 

Auto relays are auto relays - there is not much magic to see here you probably could get any number of similar parts that would work for around 5 bucks - the key for Jag owners now and in the future to utilise as much information like this as possible

 

PBKStGang: I have the same Jag and tried to locate the relay for my non serviceable rear window heater. I think the heated rear view mirrors are on it as well.
I understand that the relays are very generic, but which one is it? If you find out, please tell me!!

 

@sony2000 the heated rear screen is relay R3 in the Auxiliary Junction box, followed by fuse #23. The heated mirrors come off the wires before the relay so they aren't related. Fuses for those are drivers side #F13, Passenger #F1. Each wire then goes through respective door module.

 

For Relay 3 in the Auiliary Junction Box, try searching for "5M5T 14B192 CA Relay". Ebay results show:
(https://www.ebay.com/p/1711154180/?m...rand&norover=1)
and
(https://www.ebay.com/p/1711154180?iid=335507662593).

 

PBRStGang, I did pull the Tyco VF4-111-Z01 relay today and was surprised to find it only has 2 pins. It is an odd one.Circumnavigator offered to help search for one. I think that might help as my searches for a 2-pin relay don't come up with anything close.
Cheers!

 

A 2-pin relay package seems kind of pointless.
Custom package could contain anything, just a coil? (why?), a resistor?, a diode?. Maybe the ‘z’ in the part number means ‘zener’ diode?
All guesses until someone cracks one open (but who’s got a spare to do that?).

 

While looking over Jaguar's "688-JAG: Advanced Electrical Systems and Diagnostics - Technical Training", on page 2-40 I found this description of the mysterious R2 relay link. So now we know what it is for.

 

@KurtC
Cool That you were able to figure out what it is.

I’ll put the additional info into my X150 AI bot and see what else I can find.

 

OK this is again long, but gives replacement sourcing at the end for anyone else experiencing this issue.

Confirmed Specifications for VF4-15F11-Z01 (TE Part Number: 6-1393298-6)
This is a plug-in, dust-protected (IP54) automotive relay designed for 12V DC systems like those in Jaguars. Key specs include:
- Contact Arrangement: 1 Form C (SPDT/changeover) with normally open (NO) and normally closed (NC) contacts.
- Pinout (Standard ISO Mini Relay Configuration, Matching Your Image):
- 85: Coil ground.
- 86: Coil positive (12V trigger).
- 30: Common contact (power input).
- 87: NO contact (output when energized).
- 87a: NC contact (output when de-energized).
- Coil Data:
- Nominal voltage: 12V DC.
- Operate voltage: ≤7.0V DC (max 7.2V in some variants).
- Release voltage: ≥1.2V DC.
- Resistance: ~79–90Ω (±10%).
- Power consumption: ~1.6W.
- Contact Ratings:
- Limiting continuous current: 60A (NO)/45A (NC) at 23°C; 40A (NO)/30A (NC) at 85°C; 17A (NO)/12A (NC) at 125°C.
- Max making/breaking current: 120A/60A (NO); 45A/40A (NC).
- Minimum load: 1A at 5V DC.
- Voltage drop: <200mV (NO)/<250mV (NC) at 10A.
- Switching: Max voltage 24V DC; suitable for resistive/inductive loads (e.g., motors, lamps).
- Endurance:
- Mechanical: >10^7 operations (no load).
- Electrical: >10^5 operations at 40A/14V DC (NO contact, resistive load).
- Environmental: Operating temperature -40°C to +125°C; vibration-resistant (10–500Hz, 6g).
- Features: No built-in suppression (no resistor or diode in this Z01 variant); quick-connect terminals (6.3mm/0.250").
- Dimensions/Weight: Approx. 28mm x 28mm x 25mm (excluding terminals); ~35g.
- Applications: Commonly used in automotive power distribution for ancillary systems like audio, navigation, or lighting; matches the AJB R2 role in your XK (X150 chassis) for MOST power supply.

This relay is obsolete from TE Connectivity, so new stock may be limited, but it's interchangeable with standard mini ISO SPDT 12V/40A relays that match the pinout and ratings.

Replacement Options
- Direct Equivalents from TE Connectivity:
- VF4-15F11-S01 (adds 680Ω parallel resistor for coil suppression; TE part 6-1393298-4).
- VF4-15F11-C01 (epoxy-sealed version; TE part 6-1393298-1).
- Cross-Compatible Alternatives (Widely Available, ~$5–15):
- Bosch 0 332 019 150 (12V, 30/40A SPDT, no bracket, dust-protected; common in European vehicles).
- Hella 4RD 007 794-021 (12V, 40A SPDT).
- Song Chuan 301-1C-C-R1-U01-12VDC (12V, 35/20A SPDT, budget option).
- Omron G8JN-1C7T-R-DC12 (12V, 35A SPDT with resistor).

Jaguar-Specific Notes: No unique OEM part number beyond the Tyco marking was found in diagnostics or parts catalogs for this relay in the 2008 XK AJB. It's a standard off-the-shelf component, not Jaguar-branded. If the entire AJB needs replacement (e.g., due to board issues), look for used units on eBay (e.g., from 2007–2009 XK/XKR donors) or Jagbits.com, but test the relay first by swapping with a known good one or checking continuity/multimeter readings.

Sourcing
- Online: Amazon (search "VF4-15F11-Z01" for NOS stock), DigiKey/Mouser (for TE equivalents), eBay (for Jaguar AJB relays or full boxes).
- Auto Parts Stores: O'Reilly, AutoZone, or NAPA often stock Bosch/Hella universals; bring your old relay for pinout matching.
- Testing Tip: Before replacing, verify the issue isn't elsewhere (e.g., fuses, wiring, or MOST fiber breaks). Use a 12V test light or multimeter on the coil (pins 85/86) and contacts.

 

@Circumnavigator , your AI search is for the wrong relay and is providing bad information. The correct relay is VF4-111-Z01; not VF4-15F11-Z01. Results from your search and shown replacement options are for 4- or 5-pin relays. As seen in the picture with post #13, the Tyco R2 relay is only 2-pin.

Additional information regarding the R2 relay can be found in the “XK_Electrical Guide”, Fig. 01.8, covering the Auxiliary Junction Box (picture and attachment below). It shows R2 to only have two pins and calls it out as a RBD Relay Link; therefore, I think this may be a specialty item that simply works like a knife switch to interrupt electrical flow. As explained in the "688-JAG: Advanced Electrical Systems and Diagnostics - Technical Training", on page 2-40 (post #15), a MOST Ring Break Diagnostic (RBD) system check can be initiated by removing and then reinserting the R2 relay.If someone is brave enough to open up their nearly impossible-to-find R2 relay, I believe they would find it to have only a wire or fusible link connecting its 86 and 87 pins and nothing else.

I do remember that when I removed and replaced R2 to inspect it and take the picture for post #13, I was concerned I had screwed something up because the infotainment system was acting funny. It self-corrected shortly after. Obvious to me now is that I had initiated an RBD system check.

 

Well Ugh. Been to long to edit and remove. Are all the moderators gone?

After it kept insisting the VF4-111-Z01 was faded or being misread, I asked "What if it isn't being misread?".

It basically said then the Relay was custom made for Jaguar and is not obtainable (as you said) without finding a breaker who will sell the whole board.

Seems it kept seeing the three empty slots as pins and insisted it was 5 pin.
When I forced it to accept it was 2 pin, it did give some current relays that could be modified to make it work (12v 80/90ohm 40a rating) but seeing as I've muddied this up enough already, I'll leave them off.