Yes, 8 big torx, 2 small ones.

 

 

8 T30 Torx (4 on each side) and 2 T20 (top corners) is correct (just including the Torx sizes). I have taken mine apart ad nauseam but will add I only had 6 T30 from the start so my predecessor kept 2 apparently. That son of a......

 

I just finished my dash replacement. I thought I would add a few more tips I did not see on this thread. First off if you have or are thinking of buying a battery powered impact / driver gun this will really speed up the process. I have a cheap 1/4 driver that is low torque that was a big help. This job took me 2 and half hours, I never have done a dash swap on the X150.

The toughest part of this job in my opinion is getting off the passenger air bag connector with out breaking the connector. Here is a trick I used. Do not attempt to squeeze the connector as there is very little access for your fingers or any types of mini needle nose. What you can do is pop off the yellow locking clasp then with a flat head and then pry off the 2 air bag pins with a flat head. Once everything is all apart you can reassemble this wires to the black connector and then put the yellow locking cover on and then snap upon reassembly.

Next be sure to cover your shift knob and steering wheel. As you are fighting to get off the air bag connectors off the dash frame comes forward and tries to scratch your wheel and shift knob, I covered mine. Over all this was not too bad of a job.

 

 

Welll done!

 

I originally tried to repair the dash so I had the windshield removed. Not necessary though.

 

What will you do with the original? Just curious.

 

More than likely I will throw it out

 

I need to pop off the center dash speaker cover to get to replace the speaker. Any suggestions on taking it out carefully so I don't break mine as well? Depending on the clips its got to be better to pry it front to back or side to side right?

 

I used 2 plastic door panel removal pryers, 1 for each side of the speaker cover. Pry a little at a time on the left and right side together. They are brittle and can break just like the defrost vents.

 

Thanks. I removed the grill nice and careful with no problems. I then removed the four corner screws on the 4" speaker. The darn thing will not come out. Im talking not budging at all. Ive been careful so maybe i need some more elbow grease but the four screws i shoud be able to just lift up the speaker right?

 

tagged

 

I just removed my dash. It was more difficult than I was expecting. It took me about 2 hours and 10 minutes. 45 minutes of that was just messing with the airbag connector on the side towards the door. If I hadn't read this how-to guide I would have had no clue about how to take them off. Thanks ajzride! Your guide was a huge help.

My car is a 2010, and there were a couple of differences. First, I couldn't access the connector to the air temperature sensor without taking off the piece in the top of the driver's foot well. There were 3 or 4 torx screws below the steering wheel, and two above it holding the leather padded piece in place.

Second, there is a light sensor mounted to the speaker grill, it has a connector that needs to be removed (easy peasy).

Third, I couldn't disconnect the two connectors on the back of the instrument panel while it was installed on the dash. I ended up removing the four bolts that hold it in place, then I was able to remove the gauges, which made it easy to access the connectors. They have a lever that releases them. It's easy to figure out when you can see them, but if you're trying to do it by feel it's not so easy.

I've pulled on the leather since I brought the dash inside. I don't see how it will be possible to stretch it back over the frame. :-(

 

There are many ways to make leather stretch a bit, even water does it. You may lose your color doing it the wrong way, so best to let someone who knows what he's doing do it for you.

 

I agree that little plug is a pain. I did your method on accident, pressure in the wrong area and it snapped apart. Thanks to the pics in ajzride's post I was able to figure out which color wire goes where. However, be warned that there are two little sleeves in that plug that the pins sit in. I lost one. I was able to make one out of a couple layers of heat shrink tubing, see pics.

My dash wasn't nearly as bad as the ones on here, I was able to re-stretch it OK with a heat gun. I also did the staples around the edge mod, to hide them I cut some simple 1" strips of ABS sheet and crammed them in the gap. Now I just need to put the dash back in.

 

Well done!

 

Resurrecting this thread - anyone followed this in order to replace their duckbill (A/C condensate drain) tube under the HVAC unit behind the stereo/touchscreen unit? Looks from the photos in here that there's a bit more to do to get that unit moved/lifted/taken out completely to change that, is that right?

I know the helpful sorts here will point me at umpteen threads explaining how to fix this via the engine bay, I've tried at least as many times and I can't do it...

 

Hi,

followed this instruction last week to take out a dashboard. In principles- works/guides very well.

But not sure how it works in your case. I know that heater is over amplifier - which is under a glovebox and no need to take dashboard off to get there (but a seat and a carpet should go out). But was not looking for duckbills... so not sure if my answer anyhow helps.

 

Great write up and the photos are brilliant.
Can anyone tell me if the part that the demister vents clip into are glued to the dashboard from underneath?
I have taken out one of my vents chasing a buzzing sound, and now the lower part is loose.
The way I see it is that either (a) it is glued under the dash or (b) when the vents are fitted back, they will hold it in place.
Thank you.