The problem with the $21 lugs is they rust when they get pinched...and they do exactly in the place the socket press the most

 

Gorilla makes a great lug nut for our wheels. 73138J for chrome or 73138JBC for black chrome.

The Toyota lug nuts are close but are slightly too long. There is a possibility they may bottom out before the wheel is tightened.

 

A 3/4" hole metal hole saw is much cheaper and causes no damage to the wheel for seized lug nuts. Take out the centering drill bit in the middle and the saw goes right over the lug nut. Saw away spraying with lube constantly to keep saw teeth cool. Once you saw throught the shoulder of the nut the thing unscrews by hand and youre done. Cleanup and replace.

 

Finally, a great how to solution on dealing with a stripped out lug. Thanks Brutal.

 

Brutal they might let you into heaven at this rate.
Thanks guy, for giving where you can and making a difference.

 

AMEN!

Particularly for this great advice on how to add a spare tire, from 2012: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-brakes-67260/

 

Here's a pic for the visual stimulation

 

Yes, I realized that and that was my Plan D. I ordered the Milwaukee Hole Saw, Dozer, to do that job. There is a great youtube video of someone doing this on a Porche, unfortunately in Italian.. I just thought that the RocketSocket was a much better solution and much quicker, literally 2 mins. That way I didn't have to worry about the depth of a hole saw, even though you can put a bolt spacer inside to control depth. You can buy much cheaper bolt removal kits from China at $25 or so but I wanted to buy American. Additionally the shoulder of the socket is much thicker than cheaper alternatives.

 

you don't have to worry about depth, you'll know when you're through. Its and slow process and not like you'll be buzzing through it. I only do this when I cant knock a socket over it and get them off.

 

Yes, a slow process, that's why the lug extractor is a much quicker method. If you know the size of bolt you can buy just one of the sockets at about the same price as my Milwaukee hole saw. The fact is that the lug extractor can be used on any bolts or nuts of the same size and doesn't have to be a a lug nut. I was blown away by how easy it got totally destroyed nuts or bolts out.

 

Not sure what you mean by bottomed out. If you can screw them down to the point where they touch the rotors then they can't bottom out on the stud with the wheel in place. If you can find a set of 20 original Jag nuts for less than $150 let me know. I can replace my new chrome ones every two years for a long time before I make $150 and $20 a set.

 

you should have asked. I have a set of oem new lug nuts. And a pack of jaguar locks. $20 for locks, $60 for lugs plus shipping.

 

They Toyota lug nuts are slightly longer than the Jaguar lug nuts. If the part of the lug nut that goes through the wheel bottoms out on the rotor then the wheel will not be tight against the rotor. We're talking about 1.2mm difference in the length between the Toyota and Jaguar nuts.
It's your car and your decision.

 

Certainly buyer beware. You have to verify it doesn't bottom out on your wkeels.

As referenced above, I bought the Toyota lugs and measured about 1/8" clearance between the lug nut bottom and the rotor when installed so I'm good. I have stock Caravela wheels. That was 3 years ago. I've had the wheels off about 3 times since then and they are holding up well. I use a 21mm socket and remove/install by hand. No air tool.

 

I'd have made the same call. On my wheels the Toyota lugs were almost flush with the backside of the wheel so I decided not to risk it.

 

I'da done the same Thorsen..... Next tire change, I may get the 19mm gorillas. I think I like the look of the smaller lug in there. We'll see.

First world problems... lol

 

New or used.

 

they're new,
i use used ones to replace customer crappy ones when needed for free

 

You are right, they are about 1.5mm longer but the alloy wheel is about 3/4 inch thick so I don't see it bottoming out on the rotor, and if it did the wheel would not be solid but wobbly even with hand pressure, but I am bleeding my brakes this weekend and I will measure the thickness of the alloy wheel. I really don't want to go with the shrouded nuts if possible. That said I had them on my C series XJ6 for 22 years with no problems but then I did my own work and torqued them myself. There has to be a better way. I have seen the OEM nuts on youtube where water has gotten underneath the shroud and rusted the bolt, that too is a problem.
Thanks for taking time to warn about these issues.

 

gdolla, just use the Jaguar oem ones, they have at least one engineer working at Jaguar so they have tested them for strength, compatibility and durability. Even Toyota ones have zero testing on your car.

the fact that they rust is a good thing. high carbon strengthened steel, (cant chrome plate that) they know about the rust potential, thus the caps.