Dave on the OP's picture it shows a chrome grill and not just the surround. Is this an option or aftermarket

 

Thanks everyone for all of the feedback!

I'm consolidating the recommendations into one post for future searching

Recommendation list prior to purchasing the car:
- Get a PPI from a trusted dealer, using CPO checklist. Get cost estimates of recommended repairs
- Get a second PPI from a Jaguar-authorized bodyshop to help determine what work was done and ensure previous work was done correctly
- Have PPIs check for water/flood damage
- Since car doesn't come with service records, see if previous dealer that performed repairs would give out service records with blacked out personal info
- Test every switch and control in the car, while reading owner's manual
- Inspect all tie rod, control arm, and sway bar link rubber boots - check for dry rot
- Check the driveshaft for play, a simple quick stab and release of the go pedal should give you an idea of it's condition
- Things that should come with the car:
** owners manual/handbook plus other literature
** inside trunk should have spare wheel, foam tray with jack and tools
** 2 Smartkeys. Each one should have emergency keys
** OEM iPod cable
- Get on a plane and see the car. Drive it home if you're still buying it

After purchasing the car:
- If driving the car home, get an oil change first
- Change all fluids including transmission and rear differential
- For driving in the winter, get winter/snow tires
- (Optional) pull fuse 19 to keep exhaust dampers open

Warranty vs Repair Fund
- If you're going to use a Jaguar dealer to do the work, get a warranty
- If you're going to do the work yourself, save the money
- (Boston Area) Go to Samuel Jaguars in Brighton

 

That looks like a very good list!

Dave

 

What price are you paying? VIN search shows prices allover the place... $10k difference is pretty huge.

https://www.edmunds.com/jaguar/xk/20...A4EC5DMB51730/

https://huntsville.craigslist.org/ct...566087443.html

https://www.carstory.com/detail/2013...WA4EC5DMB51730

https://topcheapcar.com/car/Used-201...WA4EC5DMB51730

Loaded 2013 Jaguar Xkr Convertible, 5.0-liter V8, 510-hp, Nice! - Used Jaguar Xkr for sale in Gardendale, Alabama | autoquid.com

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Jaguar-XKR-X...MAAOSwDfxa2g7b

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/112974766397...m=112974766397

 

Dave maybe I'm asking it incorrectly. I have a 2012 XKR convert WITHOUT the black pack. It came OEM with a black grill both top and bottom with the chrome surround on top. So the pictures of the blue car show a chrome grill both top and bottom. Was that an OEM or aftermarket grill. Just asking

 

I hope the OP is not being scammed on this car. The multiple sales listings above are a huge RED FLAG!

My advice is to not pay any money until you see this car in person.

 

Topcheapcar shows it being listed by a Honda dealer in Miami mileage at 67,489 for $34k which seems reasonable.

Edmunds shows same mileage by World Class in Alabama for $34,795. At that price it makes you wonder what the dealer actually sold it for for W/C to ship it and make some money off it.

eBay, Craigslist and others shows 67,510 and $45k

20 miles more and $10k...

 

Duh, Sorry. Looks to be OEM.

 

In the attached picture from the listing, does anyone else feel like there is quite a good bit of road rash on the front end cap, and what appears to be several spots that have been touched up with slightly mismatched blue on the area between the upper and lower grille? I don’t think they are reflections from the ground. I would want to see the car in person.

 

Thanks for looking out for me on that.

Here's what I know --

The initial World Class listing was for $44,890. I found it on either autotrader or cargurus, but then saw it cross-posted on ebay and craigslist.

A week or two ago when I saw the posting, those edmunds and topcar links showed it was $34,785 at Honda Brickell in Alabama. It wasn't listed on their site though, and when I called they said it was already sold. The fact that those two sites are now updated to World Class Motors actually makes me feel a little bit better since I think it's simply merging old data. But, I'm not so sure there.

The carfax report here shows that on 3/8/2018 it was in fact listed for sale at Brickell Honda, which I am guessing was actually for that $34xxx and that on 4/20/2018 it's now for sale on the generic "dealer inventory".

I pointed out the Brickell $34xxx price to World Class and tried to get the price down asking what kind of work they completed for $10K. They only changed the oil and detailed it, said they bought it at auction, that $35K was more than their cost and countered a few different times. We're now at $38.5K including fees, but before whatever we learn from the PPI.

That price is higher than I was initially hoping for, but I know I'm splurging on the color combo and the later model. I'm not exclusively looking for 2013 XKRs, but it seems most of the 2012+ for sale now are generally around $40K+ minus this stratus grey one with the two-tone black and tan interior -- price just reduced and for anyone else looking has the performance exhaust and increased speed limiter too.

In short, I think I'm comfortable with the cost, as long as it's not going to cost another ton to fix it.

 

It is simply too risky for the Buyer to pay for this XKR sight unseen, because he has no protection even if he used a credit card and the seller misrepresented the vehicle. Buyer is in Boston and Seller is more than 100 miles away in Alabama. The Buyer can't dispute that charge based on misrepresented quality because: "To take advantage of this protection, you must have made the purchase (it must be for more than $50) in your home state or within 100 miles of your current billing address, and make a good faith effort to resolve the dispute with the seller first." https://www.consumer.ftc.gov/article...t-card-charges

I'd pay the airfare to see the car, regardless of what the Pre-Purchase Inspections find. Unless, of course, the inspections find that this cat is a dog!

 

Is there anyone in Alabama who can take a look. Also isn't a dealer going to do the PPI. Wouldn't that satisfy any questions or issues.

 

At the end of the day I think you'll have a great car to enjoy. My gut feeling is it'll have some road rash and some wear on the door panels where the seat belt hits it. If opened by a woman or womanly man there will be finger nail marks in the outside door openings. Kind of a pity that you have a middle man getting a price cut but the other option is let it sit for a couple months and see where it ends up.

Do ask about sales taxes in MA and AL so you don't get a double whammy on that point.


I drove half a day dragging a trailer to go look at mine. It was misrepresented badly, price was probably high for what work it needed but after nearly a year with it I'm still happy with the purchase and haven't seen another at the price point. Mine will never be perfect, but it's mine and I enjoy the heck out of it, dings, dangs and all. You are at the correct place for asking question (and you will ask a ton).

My best advice is to read the past 40 or so pages of threads and subscribe to those that interest you. Common 5.0 problems, common vert top problems, common battery problems. All free info that will save your sanity when it poops itself on the side of the road or the top won't move or any other number of dumb things happen.

 

 

Not necessarily. I look at a PPI to rule out that purchase. If the car passes the PPI (which covers mechanicals, not cosmetics), then move on to the next step. For some, that means buying the car sight unseen. But for others, a PPI gives the Buyer leverage to negotiate a lower price. For me; too much $$$ is at risk; trust but verify. Would a third party be as picky as I am? Doubtful. If you buy it sight unseen, good luck but don't cry on my shoulder if falls short of what you expected. The cost of airfare is a small price to pay compared to the price of the car. Used car sellers are at the bottom of my credibility list.

Everything in life's a gamble. Don't be naive, and do whatever you can to maximize the odds in your favor.

 

My car came with chrome top and bottom grills along with polished wheels and chrome side mirror covers, all as part of the "Portfolio Package."

 

I assume these are the grilles.

 

Body shop is a good place to have a PPI done on cosmetics.

 

Let's talk about what you can expect to receive for a PPI costing $190. That sounds like 1.5 hours of labor.

I would expect that the mechanic will retrieve logged DTC from the various ECUs, and explain the significance of the fault codes. The mechanic will inspect basics like brake pad thickness, tire tread depth, the general condition of the suspension and engine compartment, the presence of fluid leaks, and report findings. If accident damage was poorly repaired, the mechanic might notice that and report upon that.

The mechanic is not going to test drive the car at speed on the highway. So you won't find out if the car produces excessive wind noise, or has a high speed misfire, or if the transmission does not shift smoothly, or the supercharger makes a weird noise as the engine revs up, or the car has a tire/suspension problem causing vibration, etc. The misfire might cause a DTC that would be picked up during the review of logged DTC, but the other issues won't log DTC.

It is really hard to beat an in-person test drive. Considering the $39K price I think you are taking a big risk not to personally inspect the car after it passes the dealer PPI. As previously mentioned, a failed PPI might be a reason not to buy the car but a passing PPI should not be the driving reason to execute the purchase.

 

"Due diligence" can mean different things to different people. Patrick Wong and I agree that it is prudent to see and drive the car before you buy it.

Because the seller is a dealer, he controls the terms of sale and will sell the car "As-Is, Where-Is" with no warranties (except for good title). So, once you pay him you won't be able to get your money back without resorting to expensive litigation. Proving dealer fraud would be difficult since he gave you every opportunity to inspect and drive the car.

You should see the car and drive it like you stole it before you buy it.