Smog Check Failed:Oxygen Sensor Monitor Incomplete
Hi everyone:
My 2010 Jaguar XK Convertiable failed the California Smog Check. There's one DTC "Oxygen Sensor Monitor" = Incomplete, Ive tried everything plus driven it over 150 miles. The DTC won't go "Complete" All other monitors are "Complete".
The Drive Cycle Procedure to clear it is: The Smog check place said you need to drive it over 85 miles and it should clear. In california, cars that are 2010 and above have to have all Emission Control Systems "Ready/Complete". There are only Three (3) codes (DTC) that have to be clear, all mine are clear except the Oxygen Sensor Monitor. The engine light is not on, no other codes except for the dreaded TPSM, tire pressure notice.
PRE CONDITION: To Clear all Codes
- Allow vehicle to cold soak until coolant temperture is less than 60 degC. (140F)
1) Start the engine.
2) Idle for 3 mins with the heated rear window and A/C ON.
3) Turn the heated rear window OFF.
4) Accelerate from 0 mph to 35 mph with light accelerator pedal pressure. Stop the vehicle.
5) Repeat Step 4
6) Accelerate from 0 mph to 45 mph with moderate accelerator pedal pressure. Stop the vehicle.
7) Repeate Step 6.
8) Accelerate from 0 mph to 55 mph with heavy accelerator pedal pressure.
9) Decelerate to 20 mph without braking.
10) Accelerate back to 55 mph with moderate accelerator pedal pressure.
11) Maintain 55 mph for 2 min.
12) Decelerate gently to a stop.
13) Idle for 2 min.
I tried to do this several times, but it's really hard to go from 0 to 35/45 and stop somewhere!
The code will not become ready. Has anyone out there had this problem and got it to clear somehow?
I've had sseveral cars that I have removed the battery and eresed the codes and eventually they all cleared, but this one is kicking my A$$. I drove it to SFO today from San Jose and back with light/moderate/heavy accelerator pedal pressure and cruzing at 55, 65, 75 and 80 mph. The car runs great. Just put new brakes all around, slotted/dirled rotors and changed the oil/filter.
HELP Thx -Monte
My 2010 Jaguar XK Convertiable failed the California Smog Check. There's one DTC "Oxygen Sensor Monitor" = Incomplete, Ive tried everything plus driven it over 150 miles. The DTC won't go "Complete" All other monitors are "Complete".
The Drive Cycle Procedure to clear it is: The Smog check place said you need to drive it over 85 miles and it should clear. In california, cars that are 2010 and above have to have all Emission Control Systems "Ready/Complete". There are only Three (3) codes (DTC) that have to be clear, all mine are clear except the Oxygen Sensor Monitor. The engine light is not on, no other codes except for the dreaded TPSM, tire pressure notice.
PRE CONDITION: To Clear all Codes
- Allow vehicle to cold soak until coolant temperture is less than 60 degC. (140F)
1) Start the engine.
2) Idle for 3 mins with the heated rear window and A/C ON.
3) Turn the heated rear window OFF.
4) Accelerate from 0 mph to 35 mph with light accelerator pedal pressure. Stop the vehicle.
5) Repeat Step 4
6) Accelerate from 0 mph to 45 mph with moderate accelerator pedal pressure. Stop the vehicle.
7) Repeate Step 6.
8) Accelerate from 0 mph to 55 mph with heavy accelerator pedal pressure.
9) Decelerate to 20 mph without braking.
10) Accelerate back to 55 mph with moderate accelerator pedal pressure.
11) Maintain 55 mph for 2 min.
12) Decelerate gently to a stop.
13) Idle for 2 min.
I tried to do this several times, but it's really hard to go from 0 to 35/45 and stop somewhere!
The code will not become ready. Has anyone out there had this problem and got it to clear somehow?
I've had sseveral cars that I have removed the battery and eresed the codes and eventually they all cleared, but this one is kicking my A$$. I drove it to SFO today from San Jose and back with light/moderate/heavy accelerator pedal pressure and cruzing at 55, 65, 75 and 80 mph. The car runs great. Just put new brakes all around, slotted/dirled rotors and changed the oil/filter.
HELP Thx -Monte
It's not a DTC. They are like P1000 (1st letter can be P U B C).
It's an OBD monitor.
All monitors are cleared with battery off or any DTC (codes) clear. I gather CA wants them set.
If all is working OK monitors set with a bit of varied driving but some have special needs e.g. EVAP needs not too much vapour & not too much slosh etc i.e. tank not too empty or too full.
Also, some driving (aka drive cycles) can speed up the setting. I don't know if what you've been told is correct for your car. You don't need to follow it but if correct it _might_ help.
Parts which "work" but are marginal can cause a monitor not to set. This may be your trouble.
If you drive normally and don't get any codes then diagnosis of an unset monitor can be hard.
None of this is specific to Jaguars. (The drive cycle is quite likely to be specific to each make & model.)
Hopefully someone knows more about your car than me! It's newer than mine (& mine has a different set of drive cycles which I never bother to follow).
CA may be a place where if you spend $$$ trying to fix it you can get a pass - worth finding out maybe.
If you throw parts at it (I hate the idea) maybe O2 sensors?
I'd start by looking at fuel trims in case they reveal something, and also read every sensor whose meaning you grasp such as ECT, IAT, just hoping something is off.
It's an OBD monitor.
All monitors are cleared with battery off or any DTC (codes) clear. I gather CA wants them set.
If all is working OK monitors set with a bit of varied driving but some have special needs e.g. EVAP needs not too much vapour & not too much slosh etc i.e. tank not too empty or too full.
Also, some driving (aka drive cycles) can speed up the setting. I don't know if what you've been told is correct for your car. You don't need to follow it but if correct it _might_ help.
Parts which "work" but are marginal can cause a monitor not to set. This may be your trouble.
If you drive normally and don't get any codes then diagnosis of an unset monitor can be hard.
None of this is specific to Jaguars. (The drive cycle is quite likely to be specific to each make & model.)
Hopefully someone knows more about your car than me! It's newer than mine (& mine has a different set of drive cycles which I never bother to follow).
CA may be a place where if you spend $$$ trying to fix it you can get a pass - worth finding out maybe.
If you throw parts at it (I hate the idea) maybe O2 sensors?
I'd start by looking at fuel trims in case they reveal something, and also read every sensor whose meaning you grasp such as ECT, IAT, just hoping something is off.
Last edited by JagV8; Apr 11, 2026 at 05:05 AM.
Post #10 in this thread quotes the service manual drive cycle procedure for your car:
2010+ Drive Cycles
Don’t worry about the test equipment, just follow the steps, and you may have to repeat it several times.
The drive cycle for my 4.2 was different, and the only place I could find a long enough to drive was on a tollway/interstate. Best to do it at an off hour, as you’ll be moving way too slow for regular traffic, so keep those hazard flashers on.
2010+ Drive Cycles
Don’t worry about the test equipment, just follow the steps, and you may have to repeat it several times.
The drive cycle for my 4.2 was different, and the only place I could find a long enough to drive was on a tollway/interstate. Best to do it at an off hour, as you’ll be moving way too slow for regular traffic, so keep those hazard flashers on.
It's not a DTC. They are like P1000 (1st letter can be P U B C).
It's an OBD monitor.
All monitors are cleared with battery off or any DTC (codes) clear. I gather CA wants them set.
If all is working OK monitors set with a bit of varied driving but some have special needs e.g. EVAP needs not too much vapour & not too much slosh etc i.e. tank not too empty or too full.
Also, some driving (aka drive cycles) can speed up the setting. I don't know if what you've been told is correct for your car. You don't need to follow it but if correct it _might_ help.
Parts which "work" but are marginal can cause a monitor not to set. This may be your trouble.
If you drive normally and don't get any codes then diagnosis of an unset monitor can be hard.
None of this is specific to Jaguars. (The drive cycle is quite likely to be specific to each make & model.)
Hopefully someone knows more about your car than me! It's newer than mine (& mine has a different set of drive cycles which I never bother to follow).
CA may be a place where if you spend $$$ trying to fix it you can get a pass - worth finding out maybe.
If you throw parts at it (I hate the idea) maybe O2 sensors?
I'd start by looking at fuel trims in case they reveal something, and also read every sensor whose meaning you grasp such as ECT, IAT, just hoping something is off.
It's an OBD monitor.
All monitors are cleared with battery off or any DTC (codes) clear. I gather CA wants them set.
If all is working OK monitors set with a bit of varied driving but some have special needs e.g. EVAP needs not too much vapour & not too much slosh etc i.e. tank not too empty or too full.
Also, some driving (aka drive cycles) can speed up the setting. I don't know if what you've been told is correct for your car. You don't need to follow it but if correct it _might_ help.
Parts which "work" but are marginal can cause a monitor not to set. This may be your trouble.
If you drive normally and don't get any codes then diagnosis of an unset monitor can be hard.
None of this is specific to Jaguars. (The drive cycle is quite likely to be specific to each make & model.)
Hopefully someone knows more about your car than me! It's newer than mine (& mine has a different set of drive cycles which I never bother to follow).
CA may be a place where if you spend $$$ trying to fix it you can get a pass - worth finding out maybe.
If you throw parts at it (I hate the idea) maybe O2 sensors?
I'd start by looking at fuel trims in case they reveal something, and also read every sensor whose meaning you grasp such as ECT, IAT, just hoping something is off.
I just wanted to know if anyone has had this exact issue and corrected it for example, by replacing the O2 Sensors on the car.
You might want to do some more research just for your own information.
I’ve worked on several of these ODB2(PDTC’s) on many different cars over the years and almost all of them that won’t clear after just a few drive cycles end up being a faulty or marginal part. Thx.
Hey, With all do respect, these monitors I’m talking about are DTC’s they’re called Permanent Diagnostic Trouble Codes (PDTCs) that are specialized OBD2 codes stored in non-volatile memory (NVRAM) that cannot be cleared by disconnecting the battery or using a scan tool. They represent confirmed emission system faults in 2010+ vehicles, persisting until the underlying issue is fixed and the vehicle passes specific self-testing drive cycles.
If you do have any, what are the actual codes?
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Hey Healey, I envy you! I miss Florida...
Well I'm going to replace all 4 O2 Sensors on Monday (Today is Saturday) I'm sick of burning all that gas trying to get the dam thing to clear! That should do the trick... Thanks for the encouragement.
Well I'm going to replace all 4 O2 Sensors on Monday (Today is Saturday) I'm sick of burning all that gas trying to get the dam thing to clear! That should do the trick... Thanks for the encouragement.
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