My understanding is that you got a PPI??

seems you have alot of work to do?


Are you still happy?

 

I did get a PPI. But zero places that do jags within an hour or so. But they did a through job. And charged me 90 bucks lol.
Sent me around 30 photos, including at my request the undercarriage and all suspension.

Noted concerns:
(Copy paste from invoice)

MINOR COOLANT LEAK @ HOSE AND RESERVOIR AREA. UPPER BALL JOINTS BOOTS ARE OPEN. REAR TRANS MOUNT AND ENGINE MOUNTS SHOW SIGNS OF MINOR LEAKING, OUTER TIE ROD BOOTS ARE OPEN, FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS SHOW SIGNS OF LEAKING, REAR SWAY BAR LINK BOOTS ARE OPEN, DENT IN BOTTOM OF GAS TANK. NOTE THAT NONE OF THE SUSPENSION COMPONENTS HAVE ANY PLAY.

My personal list is to get her to near perfection. Mapped out over the next year. Of course expecting the occasional thing here and there popping up.

What my friends know about me… I love a challenge. But I also love to bitch about it. That bitching in no way steals from the joy I get from going elbow deep, cuts scratches and all. Just who I am.
This is an experiment for me. A test.

My wife’s a cheap ***, so I’ll find the cheapest way possible while still doing it right.
I know very little about cars. But I have a large group of awesome people here on whose wisdom I can draw. Past and present.

So, it’s a long way of answering your question, Healey.

But yes, I am happier than I’ve been in years.

 

Curcumnavigator.....It's great to find something that gives you satisfaction while keeping you out of trouble. Owning a Jaguar should certainly keep you busy. Good for you!

 

And the wife doesn't realize it, but its cheaper than the golf habit was.

 

Wurth Tools, Zebra Hose Clamps don't cut into the rubber. We used them 100% of the time working on Euro Cars.
wj

 

They are single order or a $200 set.
Would this work? Looks rolled up on the edges.

 

IT'S CHEAPER THAN HORSES..

once your done it will be a great car for years to come!!

Hang in there!!
we're rooting for you!!

 

They look okay.
WJ

 

I'm sure it's obvious but that spigot has been deformed beyond its plastic limit and now has a stress crease it it. This might well form the site for a future fracture so you will definitely need to keep a close eye on that.

Richard

 

Gonna have a peek at that when my smooth rolled edge clamps show up.
Going to actually remove the hose from the ‘spigot’ aka nipple with a rag/bowl under it and place my finger over the end of the nipple so I can inspect for cracks.

Will have to remove the fwd end of that cross bar and prop it up to make room for 2 hands.

 

Replace the hose. The worm gear already damaged it. Not worth saving pennies to prevent engine damage. Consider using a turkey BAster to remove the coolant from the reservoir. It's a bit slow but you won't need two fingers and a toe to swap them out.

 

Just received my 200cc siphon kit yesterday, so no Turkey Baster needed.

And what is this black magic of just replacing that hose?
Every thread I’ve read says you have to buy the entire heater hose assembly which is crazy expensive, just to get the hose:


Only workaround I’ve read was that someone bought two hoses (it is diff diameter inside on each end with an 83° bend) with a brass step-down fitting.

 

Yep I understand your issue. Replace the hose, even if you have to rig it with a brass fitting. The hose you have on there now is damaged. A new clamp might help but not for long. Besides, tearing apart a car is fun. Putting back together and having to leftover pieces is even more fun. You got this.

 

If a worm clamp has damaged the hose it was used on, whoever tightened the worm clamp doesn't know how to use them correctly. Don't blame the component when the user failed.

 

Oh I’m not blaming anyone or anything.
I was just hoping that since this is such a common failure point and even the entire heater hose assbly is nowhere to be found, someone had come up with a solution.
In my mind it’s a piece of rubber ffs. Can’t be too difficult to make them to spec.
Just need the specs, preferably without having to remove mine.

Update:

I've decided to use AI to help design an ID Silicone 2-hose solution with a 5/8" to 1/2" Gates 28610 (nylon-reinforced for vibration resistance) hose barb splice coupler/reducer. Looks to be about $40-50 total parts and silicone will last much longer and will withstand up to 100PSI as well as much much higher temps.

Once I've received and verified the parts will work, I will either do a video or a bunch of pics and create a walk-through for future sufferers of this annoying and common issue.