Does anyone knows the size of Torx-bit I need to purchase for the removal of the lower strut bolts on the front struts of the XKR?

I am not altogether familiar with Torx. Is there a metric vs. imperial size difference? I do have a set but, it does not go up to the size of that bolt I need.

Just planning to take a look at lowering the front-end of the XKR myself. Thinking about just doing about 1" drop on the front and not on the rear (at this time). The thinking is that the front lip is a bit high visually so, I'd like to see just a slight forward rake in the stance of the car. Such rake usually leads to better turn-in, as well. I would leave the rear alone for now, particularly because there is no camber correction there.

Manual doesn't specify, unfortunately. But I believe there's only one flavour of Torx.

I'm going to answer my own question: Stopped by the dealer and it is a #60 Torx-bit. Ngarara, you are correct, only one flavor of it exist.

I dont know if you started your task yet. But you need to get both front wheels off the ground to take the torque off the antisway/torsion bar. if not, you will have a horrible time getting the bolts out without doing damage to the arm

Thanks for the tip. I will do just that as I know all about sway bar tension. I've worked on a few before. What I wonder is how to properly tighten the nuts on the upper A-arm and the swaybar balljoints. Takeoff and reinstall with an impact wrench but, how tight to set the wrench?

Here's the torque settings:



Note that they say to use new nuts/bolts in many cases

I used the torque specs from the disc I bought for 10 dollars U.S. from Jaguar xk xkr manual 2006-2012.

the person I bought it from is

P. Easson, 55 Milton Crescent,
KY10 3DP
United Kingdom.

Richzak has his web address This disc has every torque value for every fastener on yoUR CAR


I used a special snap on torque wrench to replace the fasteners

Yes, I ordered a set of new nuts and bolts per the factory service manual. I still got to purchase a T60 torx bit.

Autozone is the cheapest then O'reillys,

You read my mind there.

I know that you changed your springs so, an other question for you: Does the stock front spring has a "flattened" bottom and/or "top" or is it a continuous loop? I am looking at simply cutting a full or less than a full turn to get my desired drop. Most springs on the market would drop too much for what I want. I prefer about 3/4 - 1" max drop up at the wheel center, which would probably give me about 1.25 - 1.5" drop at the front lip.

Cutting off a turn will stiffen the spring about 10+ percent, plenty enough for the drop. Also, stock springs are cheap (about $80 per side) so, if I don't like it, easy to change back.

May have to postpone the project a bit, looking at an emergency trip to Europe.

Interested to see how it goes, and how the handling is effected, as you always have good feedback on suspension setup.

I also couldn't find springs that were at the 1.25 area hence the coil overs, which are around 1.25 with a slight rake from the corner balancing.