After almost 5 years of having no issues, today I pushed the button in the trunk lid to open the trunk and heard a reasonably loud and distinct 'clicking-whirring' noise that lasted 2 or 3 seconds. I was unable to open the trunk using the button in the trunk lid, the manual key in the key fob, the key fob trunk button, or the trunk release button on the dash. I had a new Duracell car battery installed a month ago and I've always used a CTEK battery maintainer every time I pull it in the garage, so I'm guessing it's not an electric gremlin.

After an hour, I tried it again but got the same result. Then I tried using the key from the key fob again while I applied upward and the downward pressure on the trunk lid ... and it finally opened. However, when I closed it and tried to open it again with the trunk button, the key fob button and the dash button, nothing worked! I took a 5 second video clip on my iPhone and you can clearly hear the 'clicking-whirring' noise I'm trying to describe, but I don't know how to download that to this post. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.

 

Do we assume you could not start the car.

 

Yes, this morning the car started normally and ran normally. But, after turning the engine off, I tried pushing the trunk lid button and got the same results as before - the trunk didn't open and it made the same clicking - whirring noise for 2 seconds.

I then plugged in my OBO scanner, turned the car 'on' (without starting the engine) but I got no codes.

I'm guessing that whatever the mechanism is that opens the trunk latch when you push the trunk lid button is broken. In my mind's eye, I'm picturing the sound it makes as being a broken cable and/or the gears of a small electric motor are broken or not meshing with a cable gear wheel.

Keep in mind that all of that guessing is from a 68 year old retired banker that can barely tie his own shoes - so, the real cause could be something completely unrelated!

 

OK sounds like you narrowed down to the latch mechanism. You mentioned you tried the KEY and it opened once but not again. I don't know if the key is electric too or it is mechanical. The whirring sound is most likely the motor or solenoid that operates the latch. I would have thought the key is mechanical so it sounds like there is some linkage or clip that is broken. Try the key again and if you can manage to get it open then either take it to a mechanic or go to the dealer.

 

I just tried it again by pushing on the trunk lid button and got the same sound but the trunk lid wouldn't open.

When I push the key fob trunk button and when I push the trunk release button on the dash, I get the same sound but the trunk lid doesn't open.

When I try to open the trunk with the manual key from the key fob, it makes no noise, but it doesn't open the trunk lid.

However, when I turned the manual key in the truck lock and lifted up on the trunk lid with my other hand ... the trunk lid opened!

I agree, the whirring sound is most likely the motor or solenoid that operates the latch. I'll take it to the Jag dealer tomorrow and post the results.

 

I’m starting to get a feel for my trunk lid latch problem. I looked at my Jaguar Workshop Manual XK & XKR 2006-2012 CD and found reference to a “luggage compartment lid latch operating cable” which connects to the “luggage compartment lid lock cylinder”.

I also found reference to a “liftgate release switch”, a “liftgate latch and motor”, and a “liftgate motor assembly”.

I think I’m on the right track, but having no sophisticated diagnostic tools or skills, I still think I may have to take it to a local indie or Jag dealer.

I used to work on my old Corvettes myself, but to be honest, working on these hi-tech Jags scare me!

 

Before you do anything else, it would be both easy and worthwhile to spray a lock lubricant into the latch mechanism. Very often door and trunk mechanisms that are stuck come alive again with lubrication. You can even try WD40 but it has no residual lubricating properties.

 

I looked at the same info in the manual. The key lock has a cable to the release mechanism. The button inside the car triggers an electric motor. So it sounds like the connection between the motor and the latch is broken. I would take the motor assembly out and see what the problem. Also as mention try lubricating the assembly 1st to see if it does any good.

 

With the proper tools (hard plastic pry bars, etc.) I was able to get the large molded trim piece off of the underside of the trunk lid, exposing the 'lift-gate latch and motor' as well as the 'luggage compartment lid latch operating cable' but then I turned chicken and decided not to try to disassemble it all to check it out. There were just too many things I've never seen, and not having any electrical prowess, I made an appointment with my independent shop for Friday morning. I'll report back on the diagnosis, repairs, results and costs.

 

But did you try lubrication? Over decades of Jaguar ownership I have learned that most often the easiest answer is the right one. I have brought back to life completely dead central lock systems simply by lubricating, fixed sticking/inoperative door latches by lubrication, resuscitated dead aerials by cleaning and lubricating...I am not saying that this is always the answer, but it is often the answer, and most definitely worth trying.
A true story: during the period in which I owned Series III XJ models I learned early on that dead or slow moving windows were a regular problem. I know of one owner with this problem who took her car for repair. They replaced the window motor - no change, did other things, no change, finally replaced the window switch and the window moved as it should...but that was $600 later. The problem was not the motor or anything other than the switch. And it was not a broken switch, but rather a dirty switch. Simply cleaning the internal contacts in those switches restored very fast operation of the windows...clearly this is not applicable to the problem of the trunk latch except that it is an example of trying the easiest and least invasive solution possible before resorting to more involved and expensive options.

 

I tried spray lock lubrication but the problem and noise still exist. Both the Jag dealer and the indie said the clicking-whirring noise indicates that the motor and or latch cable need to be replaced. I'll know for sure tomorrow, and hopefully the cost will be reasonable, $250 or less. I'll post the results and thanks again for everyone's input.

 

FYI ... Today I picked up my Jag from the independent shop I use. They replaced the entire 'trunk latch assembly' which was $118 plus $55 labor, total $173. Works like new!

 

Congrats! The dealer would charge more than that just to shake your hand.

 

That's great, certainly one fourth of what it would have been at the dealer.

 

Thanks for sharing your story with everyone.