South Carolina rain must have been contaminated/polluted or something. Under some lighting conditions, when looking closely at a certain angle I can see the water spots on the beautiful paint.
Tested the 50/50 water with white vinager method on a small area but no improvement.
Any ideas?

 

The "water spots" have etched the clear coat. The Jag clear coat is relatively soft. I had the same issue on my roof last year. I used a light cutting compound (meguiars 205) and a DA polisher with an orange cutting pad. Took a few passes but I got it smoothed out. A more aggressive compound would have been faster but I wanted to be careful.

 

I usually don't, but recently used the "squeegee" at the filling station on my windows. Later that day noticed streaming on my (black) paint from where water had run off from the glass. Thinking water might've been polluted by gasoline from someone - intentionally or otherwise. Hoping streaking can be finessed out by your method...

 

Well there is alcohol in the window wash solution so maybe that's it. If it's just streaks, you can probably clean it up with a regular cleaning wax and a microfiber or foam pad by hand. Always start with the least abrasive method. There is only so much clear coat and every time you correct, you remove some of it.

YouTube has a ton of videos on how to correct and detail paint. Spend some time there and on the internet learning about polishing and correcting before you try anything. Both of you have dark colors so if you are not confident, pay a pro. It's not that hard but better safe than sorry. Practice on something else before you hit the Jag.

 

After washing the drying, I like to go over the car with a details spray; that rids anything leftover that is not actually etched into the paint.

 

I'll progress up the restorative chain as you described, thanks. The streaks don't rub off with finger pressure, so will start with the gentler methods. It's distressing to have this happen to an immaculately cared for '07.....

 

It is a real problem for me.

Where were you in S.C.?

Any short rain is really bad. Long sustained rain is generally not so bad.

 

Before using cutting compounds and polishers I would try a simple solution, wash then use a claybar with lubricant. If you haven't used a claybar before just google and there are a ton of detailer oriented tutorials. That could clear up the contaminants from your clearcoat.

 

Are you guys using a quality sealer? I've been using Meguiars Ultimate Fast Finish. It's easy to apply and take off and I find it resists dirt and road grime pretty well. The Jag lives in the garage and I dry it off when it gets wet by my Lincoln stays outside in the weather and is holding up pretty well with the Ultimate Fast Finish applied every 3-4 months. UFF is a coating though. It does not remove streaks and spots FYI.

I'm a fan of the Meguiars line. It's easy to use, readily available and reasonably priced but there are TONS of quality cleaners, sealers and waxes on the market now.

 

Definitely start with a good wash, then claybar - I like 3M Perfect It III cleaning clay with Meguiar's Gold Detailing spray as lubricant for the claybar. Follow up with a quality high-Carnuba wax.

 

Tervuran, I'm on Long Island, but I suspect the wash water was contaminated - first time ever this happened.
I've always been hesitant to put anything other than cleaner / water / wax on cars, but will go the clay route if simpler methods fail.
Thanks to all for suggestions / remedies..!!

 

I do wish I had discovered the clay bar about two years earlier than I did.

Nanomitt does a similar job and is easier to use.

 

Ah, yes, I am old school in my thinking. Or Nanomitt!

 

Clay does work good, but the Nano-whatevers work well also. Bad thing, they are quite pricey. I ordered a "detail" sized one for like $22 and it was half the size of a deck of playing cards. Not what I expected.

 

How big were you expecting?




Graham

 

In the end the Nano Mitt costs less IMO. Clay bar fall on dirty floor and that's all she wrote. Nano matt last much longer. I have the medium and fine grad mitt and would recommend the fine if someone is to buy only one. It's much quicker the mitt than clay bar. I can do an XK with the mitt in like 15-20 minutes max. Fine polishing is recommended after the mitt; before a sealer or whatever you plan on applying.

 

Agree. The Nano Mitt works great for the average Joe like me. There are still sticklers that swear on clay bar only though.

As far as clay bar or nano mitt removing water spots, I agree, try it first, it does not hurt, but if a vinegar solution did not work, I doubt the clay will. The clay will pull off surface contaminants, which the vinegar solution should have done. But yea, give it a try!

Like Moses said, the clay will lightly mar the clear as it is an abrasive. You will see where you clay it on dark paint for sure. A fine polish will fix it up.

 

More lube is needed with the Nano mitt. If the mitt drags, the rubber left behind is a pain to remove. I'll never use clay again.

On the fence whether to use CarPro IronX before the mitt. I have like a gallon of it, but it makes the car smell for a few days. My wife's Volvo has iron spots in the paint, so for sure using on it her car.

 

For lube with the nano mitt, I actually use car was soap. Meguiars gold class. I wash first, then rinse, then foam up a new batch in the bucket and run the mitt over. Works well. Faster than using the detail spray IMO. Whatever works... I only use it about once per year.

I have yet to use an iron remover however.

 

I leave the car wet after the wash with dish washing soap to help remove the old wax and sealer. I just spray additional lube onto the wet paint with mitt and then wash the whole car again (minus the wheels) which is super quick since it's already clean.