I was wandering if any of you use waterless product for the body and wheels and what do you use?
I do not want use water anymore to wash my car.
is there something I can do for rust within brake discs?
anybody use a vapor system to wash wheels?

 

I have used the Optimum no water wash, worked great.

I am currently using Infinite detail juice from Garry Dean as it operates as a waterless and detailing spray. Plus I use his one bucket wash method. Wash using one microfiber towel per panel never putting a dirty cloth back in the bucket.

 

Oh yeah, for wheels I use a separate bucket dedicated for wheel use, standard car wash solution, and a hose with water.

 

Thanks,
I try to avoid the water for the wheels too, I did it this morning using a waterless product and its ok, hard to clean wheels without pressure, specially mine...i think a vapor system will help me out there, or i am gonna take it to the waterless wash in town each time for 30 euros? its 30 km from home...
water really sucks indeed, unless its demineralized and again. On the long term i think water just ruin our cars, limestone, watering /drying process for gaskets etc....

 

I use a "California Car Wash" dry brush to take off the light dust, then a clay bar (yes I know, archaic nowadays) over the whole thing with Mother's Showtime and a microfiber cloth.
I still use the clay bar because Micro-Mesh, which supposedly took over from clay, doesn't retain and hide away any particles, which then get continuously ground into the surface until wiped away. Anyone has ever wet-sanded a paint job and had a grain of grit in the way knows what I mean.

 

problem is when you wash wheel at your home with water and don't drive away, don't use the brake to heat the disc and dry them. then they rust and more happen.
i ordered a foam for wheels "mantis" waterless, will see.
Even for my cat I am getting a waterless shampoo.

 

I don't worry about that, the only thing I see is some small rust on the rotor which is knocked off the first drive. It is not an issue. I live in Florida, the wheels and brakes get wet about every day from rain and then put in the garage. To me wet tires or brakes are a completely irrelevant point.

I don't exclusively wash with a waterless system, I mostly wash with a hose and water, both the wheels and the body. Then I put it right in the garage. During a drought several years ago we were on water restrictions so hose washing was prohibited, that was when I did most of my waterless wash. I still will do it when in a hurry if the car only needs a light cleaning.

 

I use a Metrovac Car dryer & air compressor so there's no standing water on the car and I barely have to use a towel.

 

don't have one but yea those are awesome.

Use of the California duster before the detail spray/dry wash is recommended or the grit may make light scratches in the clear coat when you wipe it off. Over time it'll get all swirly.

 

it was something i red on a mercedes book and i will stick to it, water can do more damage to discs than rust. here in 10 000 km i never driven it under the rain, and i try not to.

 

I use a foam cannon connected to my power washer. I wet the car with water, then spray the soap with the cannon, spray off with the hose, repeat with the cannon and then microfiber mitt with 1 bucket wash system. Helps keep the swirls from coming back.

 

I just bought this product called , "Poorboys World wash and shine waterless cleaner.". I wanted something to use when away and a car wash isn't available. I've only used it to try it out and you just mist the area and let it set for a minute and lightly buff with a micro- fiber cloth. Seemed OK but don't know how it would work doing the whole car. It doesn't strip the wax so we'll see.

 

People can call it archaic all they want. It's still effective and if it aint broke....

Cee Jay, I just got back from a tour of the Mighty Five and back up through Yellowstone. Absolutely beautiful drive and spectacular countryside.

 

... and I used to live in (ugh) Duluth. NEVER want to go back.
If you liked the Grand Canyon, take a look at Bryce Canyon in Utah. It's quite a drive, but worth it.

 

As many of you know I own a stable of premium sports, Jaguar, Porsche, & Corvette C7.

Each one of these cars has gone through a thorough DIY detailing using a nano-ceramic paint coating.

The application of the paint coating takes up to 5 to 6 hours to complete. It is a complete process. Once the ceramic coating is applied, typical durability is 3 years. Once applied there is no need for a wax product.

Now that the ceramic coating is on all my vehicles (5 total), washing and maintaining the finish is very easy.

I use soft water to rinse the vehicle first, then use a foam gun to apply a spot free soap, rinse again, use my AirForce Master Blaster and waffle weave towel to try.

The Air Force Master Blaster 4 HP is a must for the detail enthusiast who wants to make sure that every crack is air dried. The AFMB provides filtered and heated air.

3 of my cars can be seen below in the images via the link in my signature. The shine and reflective of the ceramic paint coating is simply outstanding. The DIY cost runs about $75 to $125 for the materials and there is plenty of product to complete several vehicles.

I highly recommend the ceramic paint coatings to any serious auto enthusiast. Keep in mind there is a difference between a paint coating and a paint sealant. As stated, the ceramic paint coatings can last up to 3 years while a paint sealant will last about 6 to 9 months, before the vehicle needs another application of paint sealant.

..

 

Richard, are you still using the Opticoat product? I had 2 or my cars treated with the professional version over 3 years ago. The jag, which is in the garage more than not still looks great. Water still beads up after a wash, nice sheen. My daily driver still looks OK, but I can see after a wash that the water is a bit splotchy. The detailed finishes of each car before application were not comparable, ie. the daily driver had remaining swirls and some scratches, but I still think that the product is worth using. I'm pretty lazy when it comes to waxing cars, and I don't think that I need to after having opticoat applied. I'd agree with your assessment that about 3 years of normal exposure is the limit, however the coddled jag is still good.


Oh, and I noticed that after my first "foam-canon" wash (chemical guys detergent--not sure which exact one) and water rinse that there is still some dirt, hence the second one and using a microfiber mitt. The super blow dryer that you use would be a great addition to my procedure, but for now it's just a good microfiber drying cloth.

 

I too use the DataVac Electric Duster. Target sells them for $59. See link below -

Target : Expect More. Pay Less.[*GCLID*]&gclsrc=ds

Although they are small and hand-held ... they're extremely powerful at 4.5 amps. They are great to dry your car and car wheels, to dust the car's interior, dry motorcycles, dust computer keyboards, lampshades, blinds, etc.

It's one of those amazing tools that works as well as it claims. Once you get one, you'll wonder how you got this far without one! To me, it's kinda like a Dremel!

 

The Metrovac "Air Force Master Blaster" is quite powerful & impressive. A dedicated 20 amp circuit is needed as is a 10 gauge extension cord if needed. I don't use the air compressor as much now.

https://www.metrovacworld.com/produc...aster/overview

 

As usual we find there are many ways to clean a car, not one person will utilize the same tools or methods.

I can say that the Waterless Wash method will yield the same results as foam sprayers and water wash. You will have a completely clean car without compromising the finish (introducing swirls and such). I used it for a significant amount of time several years ago. The only reason I don't now is that there are no water restrictions in my area and I don't see the need to pay the premium cost of the product. It is more expensive per wash.

It is just as easy for me to use my Mothers Gold car wash solution in a bucket with water, I wash one area at a time and then dry with an Absorber followed by microfiber buff and dry so that the water doesn't dry on the paint. I could use my 100mph electric blower but there is not need, it takes all of a minute to dry by hand. If there are any post-wash drip lines that dry and show I have detailer spray and a microfiber that with one spritz and wipe it is gone.

My car looks as good as any on this board. If it wasn't for them damn rims with the multiple spokes and crevices I could wash in 20 minutes. Freakin' rims take as long as the whole car.

And yes, an Opti-Coat or equivalent is a great product, I swear by it. I did a DIY application on my Jeep, the purpose was to simply avoid having to wax it a couple of times a year. I had a comparable product professionally applied to my Jag as I also had it paint corrected and some other stuff done.

 

I use my Metrovac "Air Force Master Blaster" 4HP on a 15 amp circuit without any problems. The more powerful 8HP should be used with the higher amp circuit or else you may be subject to tripping the GFI breakers.

Here's my 4HP Air Force Master Blaster and strongly feel this unit is all that is needed to excellent drying results. These units are much different in quality and how the air is blown than a "leaf blower" which many vehicle owners use.

https://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-...r+blaster+4+hp

This is a great investment that will last for years to come. I mounted mine on a roll around 2" x 12" board.