New to forum and jag (not sports/exotics) so hoping for some help!
2015 XKR
kentucky, USA

2015 xkr- what do I need to do first that are common problems/issues? Change or replace?

Should I ceramic coat or ppf?

Best “simple” or bolt on mods?

sticky button solution? *( already saw solution on older thread)

I like black rims… powder coat the originals? Recommendations?

Best place for carbon fiber accents/accesories/ spoiler, side skirts etc?

** accelerating w paddles I noticed in first or second it bogged down. I wasn’t close to redline. Is this normal? Do I need to shift sooner?

 

Start with OBD readings to see if it's running properly.

 

Welcome to the forum and to the world of Jaguar GTs! The 2015 XKR is a fantastic machine — the last of its kind really — blending brutal supercharged V8 power with elegant long-nose, short-tail design. It’s not a tuner car in the traditional sense, so most of us focus on preserving performance, enhancing reliability, and making tasteful upgrades. Here’s a quick rundown:

Common Checks & First Fixes

• Cooling system: The XKR runs hot. Check coolant hoses, water pump, and thermostat. If original, consider replacing.
  
• Supercharger belt & tensioner: Prone to wear. A chirp or squeal is a giveaway.
  
• Timing chain tensioners: Less problematic on 5.0 SC than earlier AJ engines, but worth inspecting if you’re above 60k miles.
  
• Sticky buttons: You found the thread — usually interior plastics reacting to heat/humidity. Clean or reskin are both viable options.
  

Paint Protection

• Ceramic coat is a great first step — easy maintenance and shine.
  
• PPF (Paint Protection Film): Worth it only if you’re protecting a pristine finish or plan on long-term ownership. Start with bumper/hood if cost is a concern.
  

Mods (Keep It Classy)

• This is a grand tourer, not a track car — most owners aim for refinement:
  
  • Powder coating the stock wheels: Totally fine, especially if you like black. Avoid cheap jobs — poor prep ruins balance and finish.
    
  • Intake/exhaust: K&N drop-in is easy, or VelocityAP makes a mild exhaust kit. Just don’t go straight pipe — kills the refinement.
    
  • Carbon fiber: Quality sources are limited. Look at Arden, Paramount Performance, or Maxton Designfor subtle pieces. Avoid eBay specials unless reviewed.
    
  • Tune: If you’re itching for more power, a conservative ECU remap from VelocityAP or others can wake it up without pushing stress too far.
    

Paddle Shifting “Bogging Down”

• Yes — this can be normal. The ZF 6HP26 is adaptive and smooth, not lightning-fast.
  
• If it bogs in 1st/2nd:
  
  • You may be shifting too early under partial throttle
    
  • The transmission may still be adapting to your style (give it a few tanks)
    
  • Avoid shifting manually under 2.5k unless you’re cruising
    
  • Transmission fluid service (even though “lifetime”) is smart at 60–80k
    

Final Thought

This isn’t a Mustang or a WRX — it’s a muscular cat in a tuxedo. Every upgrade should make it feel more confident, not more agitated. You’ll get more admiration at a Cars & Coffee for a clean, whispering predator than a loud one with bolt-on wings.

 

2015 XKr

Anyone notice anything?
thank you so much for that reply. Thank you for the time that I know that took to give me information and help me out.
is the air intake tube kit at Mina Gallery for $245 worth it?

 

The thing I’d look at first is the black PA-12 tubing that runs around the engine. It gets brittle with age and heat.
There’s a production date code printed on it. If it’s over 5 years old, I’d replace it. The one that feeds your throttle body gets quite hit.