Holy Crap... who designs these things?
The center console cigarette lighter is bad on my 2007XK and needs to be replaced. Already done all the diagnostics/fuses/etc.
So I have the replacement receptacle, should be easy right, pop out the old one pop in the new one.... but noooooooooooooooo
You no kidding need to remove the entire fricking console and then remove the 4 screws holding the ashtray in place to give you access the the cigarette lighter, unbelievable .
So anyway, I undertook the job today, can't figure out how to get the gear selector cable ball joint free. The manual says to "carefully remove" and shows an arrow indicating is should simply pull off toward the right passenger side. I tried pulling and gently prying laterally with a screwdriver but it wont move, any idea what is holding the cable onto the ball joint?
I have just about everything removed, oh and there are 2 totally different types of TORX bolts too, the standard 6 sided and then the 6 sided star.
Crazy stupid how difficult something that is incredibly easy on every other car I have worked on....
This thread has a link to the manual which was very helpful and has a photo of the gear selector removal procedure, but I don't quite follow:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...removal-95349/
Anyone have suggestion how to remove the ball joint cable on the gear selector?

 

Would it be easier to just quit smoking?

 

PITA is right. I went through that to fix the ash tray cover that wouldn't latch open.
After you've loosened the nuts on the cable, that clamp it to that metal flange, you pull the dang thing off the ball joint. Thought I might break it, but it finally popped off. Don't remember if it was by clamping a vise grip on the cable shaft, or getting a tool in there and prying against something sturdy, when it finally came off.
Goes back on a bit easier.

 

Thanks KJ07, I found this note on a different thread, looks like you just put a flat head screwdriver up against it and pop the linkage ball off, I will try it!
Following was that note from a prior poster:

It took me just under an hour, from starting the car and backing it out of the garage, to shutting it off after pulling it back in. The project was a bit tougher than expected, but easier than I was afraid it might be ...

The surprises ...
1. you need a T30 torx driver (I had one - and found it!!!);
2. you'll need to take off the black plastic upper trim panels on both sides of the center console; and
3. the shifter assembly has not only the plug connector, it also has a physical linkage connection on the passenger side.

IMPORTANT: start the engine, shift into Neutral and shut off the engine -- the nagging bing-bing-bing will stop in 10 or 15 seconds ...

FIRST - my shifter knob just unscrewed - but check yours for any hex screws or other attachment method, which is more likely if you have changed your shifter knob or are working on a different model year than mine (2007 XK Coupe). Now pry the veneer wood panel straight up using a plastic tool ... I started at the ashtray on the passenger side, along the outside of the veneer panel, and worked my way rearward prying up all 4 clips along the right side, raising the panel just enough to free the clips (about an inch). Pry straight up -- then repeat on the driver's side from front to back. The back end of the panel now lifts up so you can reach forward to disconnect the 2 plugs at the front end of the panel - they each pull straight down, out of the female connector. Set the veneer floor panel aside.

NEXT - unscrew all 6 torx screws holding the long narrow black plastic decorative side panels in place - there are 3 screws along each side. Use a plastic tool or your fingers to pull off the two panels - there are a half-dozen or so clips on each one, just pry (or pull) straight out. The front end of each panel will bend in an outward direction into the knee well far enough to be able to get them out completely - I found it easier to fold the seat forward which let me get at the back end of each panel to release it.

NOW - on the passenger side of the assembly, sitting in the passenger seat, look straight down, about at the middle of the shifter assembly - you'll see a shiny metal knob sticking straight out from the assembly - this knob inserts into a black front-back linkage. I slipped a large blade screwdriver straight down from above to wedge the linkage off the knob - it pops off straight off toward the seat. Look at the passenger side of the new assembly - this will make a lot more sense seeing it.

ONE MORE STEP - on the driver's side, behind the black plastic decorative panel you removed, look for a green plug assembly just rearward of the assembly itself - this is where the shifter assembly connects to the car. The entire block (the plug and connector) can be pried out toward the door - I used that same large blade screwdriver to do it. Look at the new assembly plug and you'll discover how it disconnects from the car - now disconnect the old shifter assembly plug from the connector.

FINALLY - unscrew the 4 torx screws holding the shifter assembly in place. Lift out the whole assembly ... you'll have to wiggle and twist and turn and swear at it, but it does come out WITHOUT USING MUCH FORCE. Sit in the driver's seat and invert the assembly onto your right leg ... now tease out the wire harness that leads from the shifter assembly to the green plug - and make note of how the harness is routed. The old shifter assembly is now completely disconnected - I'm keeping mine, it's ugly but it does work -- just in case ...

INSTALLATION - with the new shifter assembly laying on its side on top of the hole where it will go, thread the green plug and wire into place, running the same way the old one came out. Insert the plug into the connector until you hear a soft click, and press this whole plug assembly back into place. Now wiggle the new shifter assembly into the hole - again, NOT MUCH FORCE IS NECESSARY -- and check that the four attachment points align with the screw holes. Screw the 4 torx screws back in tight.

IMPORTANT STEP - bring back the veneer floor panel, and set it roughly in place ... reconnect the START-STOP plug, start the engine and shift the new assembly into Neutral. Shut off the engine.

LINKAGE CONNECTION - from the passenger side, you can use the blade screwdriver as a lever to pry the linkage a bit forward or backward, and you can move the shift lever a bit, until the shifter assembly metal knob lines up with the black receptacle. Now use the screwdriver to push the receptacle onto the knob - it will snap into place.
REPLACE THE SIDE PANELS - start at the back (with the seats bent forward) and just press each one back in place ... the 3 screw holes on each panel should line right up. Replace the 3 torx screws on each side and tighten.

CLOSE IT UP - retrieve the veneer floor panel, reconnect the two button plugs, and ease the panel down roughly into place. I started at the back end - gently push straight down on the panel ON BOTH SIDES AT THE SAME TIME, and you'll hear clicks as each side snaps into place.

That's it ... I had not anticipated taking off the two side panels, and I had not anticipated the linkage connection - but neither proved to be a problem. As I said - less than an hour start to finish, and that hour included at least 20 minutes education and "figure out how to do it" time ... I could probably do it again in 30 minutes or so.

I'm sorry I didn't take pictures as I did this, but it's pretty straight forward ... and I'm taking my wife out to a really nice dinner (or three) with the $200 I saved on parts (I bought the new shifter assembly online for $350) and labor ... and boy is the new shifter nice 'n pretty ...!!!

 

Yeah, that sounds like a plan.
I know it took me longer, but then I had my console out for a couple of days while I worked on other mods.
Good luck!

 

Are you kidding me! I took it apart, installed the new cigar lighter, and it still doesnt work!!!

 

Bummer. You checked fuses first (IIRC), and there is only power there while the ignition is on. If not those, then comes the fun part of tracking down a disconnected/broken wire.

 

Yep, checked all the fuses first, all were fine. It worked when I first purchased the car, but then stopped. Inside the receptacle it was corroded and rusty, like maybe the prior owner had spilled something in there. So I assumed it finally just gave up. You should have heard the disappointing cussing when after all that frickin effort, it still doesn't work. But hey, now I have a non rusty shiny new receptacle... that doesn't work.

 

Mine didn't work and the one in the glove box stopped too so when I had it at the dealer I asked them to check the fuses and fix the problem. Turns out both fuses were bad and they replaced them. Funny thing was one was inside the car and the other was in the engine compartment. I still don't know why the fuses blew.

 

hmm, I looked at the fuse diagram, I didn't see one in the engine compartment for that receptacle....

 

It is Fuse 9, a 15 Amp one.