Hey there.

I'm a newbie to this forum. Just bought my first Jag recently and looking for a few suggestions to prepare storing it for the winter since I live right outside Chicago.

I have a cover for it and its going to be stored in a heated garage under my condo. I've recently changed the oil on it. I plan to fill it up w/premium (no ethanol) and add Stabil to the tank.

Someone suggested that I inflate the tires to 40psi avoid flat spots.

Should I invest in a battery maintainer?

Since this a convertible, is there something i should be doing to condition the top before the cover goes on?

Any other suggestions?

Thanks
Michael

 

Welcome. If you’re near Chicago, you’ll probably have to drive a bit to find non-ethanol gas. I do that for my small engines (lawn mower, etc.), but not for the car, too much hassle (closest place is a small airport, and can only pump into cans, not the car).

Check the max tire pressure is for your tires. I shoot for 5psi under the max, when storing for the winter.

A battery maintainer is a good investment, and I keep mine on it year round.

Other ideas seen in other threads:

I park on 1/2” plywood squares, to keep the tires off the concrete (some debunk the possible tire/concrete reaction, but there’s no harm in doing it).

Park on a sheet of plastic (like a painter’s drop cloth) to block moisture coming up from the concrete and rusting the steel components under the car.

Dryer sheets inside the car to stop rodent intrusion.

 

Over winter, both my classic cars have a smart charger permanently connected, have fuel additive circulated through the system on the last run before Winter, have car covers and have a chemical block dehumidifier stood in the footwell. I find that the one large tablet basically lasts through until the Spring.

Richard

 

I live near Philadelphia, and I do nothing to winterize it; it lives in my garage, and I WILL drive it if it's clear and dry,

 

Keeping the car on a battery tender is a good idea. I pump my tires up to 50psi and park the car on a square of carpet remnant (so it's not sitting directly on hard concrete). Some folks use tire cradles, which work well, but I've found a piece of carpet works almost as well with 50psi in the tires. They may still be a little flat-spotted come Spring, but after a few miles of driving they get round again. Otherwise, you're doing the same things I do on all my cars I store over the winder. Just as a reminder, it's not a good idea to periodically start the car. Starting the car will put condensation in the engine, exhaust, muffler, etc., unless you let the engine get fully up to temp. I just don't start them at all until I get them out in the Spring. I've done this with all my cars for many years with no issues and they fire right up.

 

I am new to the site, too. Owner of 2008 XK for 2 years. Posted my first thread just a few days ago to help people avoid what happened to me- and it all started with my battery. I live 3 hours from you, also cover my car and put in garage over the winter. I strongly suggest you not only use a "trickle" battery system over the winter (cheap and easy) but even in the summer if you are going to let your car sit in the garage without driving for more than 4 weeks. My issue (saga) started with just leaving my car in the garage with the top down for six weeks without driving it. I learned my lesson and luckily avoided a very expensive "repair" that was not needed. Also, the manual gives suggestions on the convertible top maintenance for storing for periods of time. Good luck and enjoy your car- I love mine! Cindy

 

This is often discussed and clarified in the forum so I'll do it here. The terms "trickle charger" and "battery maintainer" are sometimes used interchangeably but they're separate and distinct. A trickle charger never stops feeding voltage to the battery. That would be a disaster if using one for winter storage. A maintainer, stops charging when the battery is fully charged and restarts when the battery loses voltage. I'm guessing you use a maintainer but it's always worth calling them out for those who aren't aware of the difference:-)

 

Dryer sheets in the engine bay too. Mice avoid the scent. I have never had mice in my garage but I still put them in the engine bay and stuff them near wire looms. I've read more than a couple threads where the little *******s seem to enjoy chewing through the ECU wiring.

+ 1 on the plastic underpayment. I've laid down plastic on my garage floor for years. I have a sealed floor and still each spring when I remove the plastic, it's always damp. Perhaps this solves the tire on concrete problem I'm seeing in this thread too? I'm unfamiliar.

Also steel wool in the tail pipes. Not sure how necessary this one is though. Maybe mice look up and hop up in the tail pipe

 

Jaguar provides several recommendations for properly storing and then bringing a vehicle like the 2012 XK out of storage to keep it in optimal condition. Here’s a general guide:

Preparing Your Jaguar for Winter Storage

1. Clean the Car Inside and Out:

• Wash, wax, and thoroughly dry the car to prevent corrosion and protect the paint.

• Vacuum and clean the interior to prevent mold, odors, and attracting pests.

2. Fill the Gas Tank and add Fuel Stabilizer:

• Fill the fuel tank to reduce condensation and add a fuel stabilizer to prevent the fuel from degrading. Run the engine briefly to circulate the stabilizer.

3. Change the Oil and Oil Filter:

• Fresh oil is less likely to contain contaminants that can lead to corrosion. Changing the oil before storage can help protect the engine over the winter.

4. Top Off Other Fluids:

• Ensure that coolant, brake fluid, and windshield washer fluid are topped off. This reduces the risk of corrosion and system degradation.

5. Protect the Battery:

• Disconnect the battery or use a battery maintainer (trickle charger) to keep it charged. Jaguar recommends this to maintain battery health and avoid it draining completely.

6. Protect the Tires:

• Inflate the tires to the maximum recommended pressure to help prevent flat spots, or consider placing the car on jack stands if it will be stored for several months.

7. Prevent Moisture Buildup:

• Use a desiccant or moisture absorber inside the passenger cabin to prevent mold. Open the windows slightly if the storage area is climate-controlled and secure.

8. Cover the Car:

• Use a breathable car cover specifically designed for indoor storage to protect it from dust and accidental scratches.

9. Parking Brake:

• Avoid engaging the parking brake to prevent it from seizing; use wheel chocks if needed.


Bringing Your Jaguar Out of Storage

1. Inspect and Reconnect the Battery:

• Check the battery for any signs of corrosion and reconnect it if you had it disconnected. Charge it fully before starting.

2. Check Fluid Levels:

• Inspect all fluids (oil, coolant, brake, and windshield washer) to ensure they’re at proper levels.

3. Inspect Tire Pressure:

• Adjust the tire pressure back to the recommended level for driving.

4. Check Under the Hood and Around the Vehicle:

• Inspect belts, hoses, and wiring for any signs of wear, cracks, or pests. Check for any fluid leaks and ensure nothing is obstructing the air intake.

5. Start the Engine:

• Start the car and let it idle for a few minutes, allowing fluids to circulate and the engine to reach operating temperature.

6. Test the Brakes and Other Systems:

• Before driving at full speed, test the brakes in a safe area. Check that the lights, HVAC, and other systems are working correctly.

7. Drive Carefully Initially:

• When first driving after storage, take it easy for the first few miles to allow all components to re-engage smoothly.

Following these steps helps ensure that your vehicle remains in excellent condition and is ready for the road come spring.

 

"Winterizing Suggestions" very misleading. Somehow the words "Garage" or "Storage" should be parachuted into the title.
The #1 answer to the above for me, would be, " 4 non staggered, studded winter tires". Just rounding out the replies!

 

@sony2000 , you and I would get along just fine. I wonder If I’ll be seeing you at Tremblant…
Adding to your input:
-rust inhibitor spray, lanolin based.
-0W-20 full synthetic oil, ensure all other fluids are full synthetic,
-an inline block heater,
-downsize 1 rim diameter, and not staggered nor too wide,,
-install the best snow tires you can afford, properly inflated,
-rubber matts,
-a good quality waxing of the paintwork,
-seasucker roof ski rack
-that new set of alpine skiis.

 

Don’t use a trickle charger, you need to use an intelligent maintainer, such as the Ctek brand.