Mine was similar, it also worked at very low brightness, but kept getting progressively worse.

 

Hi White XKR. Thanks so much for you message. I think you have nailed the cause, not sure about the solution yet but I have the exactly same problem as you had. I went out of Auto and set brightness to 50%. Just got back from a 1 hour drive and had no problems. I did change the battery to a AGM two days ago and it didn't help at all, in terms of the display going out in AUTO, despite what the messages on the forum suggested in a number of cases. I think it may be the ambient light sensor that is causing the display to go to full power as I had the problem when top was down and it was sunny. I have no problems when the car is in the garage in dim light under AUTO, the display stays on and so it seems that when you drive the display to high brightness problems occur. I will take 50% over 0% anyday. Thanks for your message it was very helpful. I will reply to this string after more testing. Troubleshooting the MOST circuit was driving me nuts.

 

WhiteXKR, Progressively worse meaning more events with the display going blank or you had to just keep reducing the brightness setting? I wonder if there are two settings for the backlight, below and above 50%. The workshop manual I have is not great on these devices.

 

I had to keep further reducing the brightness setting over time to keep the display from going blank.

 

The first gen X150 actually has several different versions of TSD and they are model year and software/ICM dependent. As part of an upgrade of non-standard features on my 2008, I purchased a lightly used 2009 version. It worked fine for about a week or so with auto brightness mode, although while running SDD routines during the initial install, the TSD backlight did turn off several times. Then the back light began turning off after a few minutes of being on and shortly after that it began turning off after a few seconds, consistently. After fiddling around, I discovered the auto setting and anything 50% and above manual brightness would trigger the failure. I was considering my options when my well maintained battery failed after just over 3 years. I replaced it with an AGM and have since discovered I could increase the brightness at least one step higher, which made a considerable difference. I have not tried auto or anything brighter as it is now good enough and working.

Someone posted there was a TSB for a similarly described concern that involved reflashing the TSD with a newer version of SDD.


JTB00149v4

TECHNICAL BULLETIN

20 MAY 2013










© Jaguar Land Rover Limited
All rights reserved.




Information




This reissue replaces all previous versions. Please destroy all previous versions.

This bulletin supersedes TSB JTB00149v3/2011 dated 27 JUL 2011, which should either be destroyed or clearly marked to show it is no longer valid (e.g. with a line across the page). Only refer to the electronic version of this Technical Bulletin in TOPIx.



SECTION:
415-00 - Entertainment System - General Information


Subject/Concern:
High Level Display Front (HLDF) Screen Lock-Up


AFFECTED VEHICLE RANGE:
Model:Model Year:VIN:XF (X250)2008-2011R00001-S07283XK Range (X150)2007-2011B00001-B43851

MARKETS:
All


CONDITION SUMMARY:

Situation:

A customer or dealer may experience one of the following concerns:
• HLDF screen lock-up with message 'Emergency OS please re-load software' displayed.
• HLDF permanently displaying Jaguar leaper.
• HLDF black or blank screen.
• HVAC fan speed pop up may be stuck on screen.
This Version has been issued to add a new symptom and SDD process.
Cause:


HLDF software corruption caused by one of the following: • The vehicle power supply interrupted or disconnected. • Vehicle power dropped below 12.5 Volts during an SDD software download. • SDD disconnected or shut down during a software download. Suggested Customer Concern Code - A18.

Action:


Configure the front control/display interface module, follow the Service Instruction outlined below.




WARRANTY:
NOTES:

Repair procedures are under constant review, and therefore times are subject to change; those quoted here must be taken as guidance only. Always refer to JLR claims submission system to obtain the latest repair time.
The JLR Claims Submission System requires the use of causal part numbers. Labor only claims must show the causal part number with a quantity of zero.

DESCRIPTIONSROTIMECONDITION CODECAUSAL PARTConfigure the front control/display interface module86.99.950.2 hours42C2P 16234NOTE:
The JLR Claims Submission System requires the use of causal part numbers. Labor only claims must show the causal part number with a quantity of zero.


SERVICE INSTRUCTION:

NOTE:
The Key fob should be placed in vehicle for the full duration of software download.

CAUTION:
This procedure requires SDD DVD134.01 with Calibration pack File 134 loaded or later.

NOTE:
SDD download time is approximately 2.5 hours or less.

Connect an approved battery support unit / power supply to the vehicle.
Ensure the smart key is located in the vehicle and remains there for the duration of the download.
Connect SDD to the vehicle and begin a new diagnostic session, by entering the correct VIN for the current vehicle.
Follow the SDD prompts to read the vehicle configuration.
Select the Diagnosis Session Type.
Select the Symptoms tab and enter any of the following Symptom (s).
Electrical - Climate control system - Air conditioning controls - Touch screen display.
0r
Electrical - Information and entertainment system - Touch screen display - Reduced function.
or
Electrical - Information and entertainment system - Touch screen display - Control function inoperative.
Select the Recommendations tab.
Configure existing module - Front control / display interface module (high level display front).
When all tasks are complete, exit the current session by selecting the Session tab and then selecting the Close Session option.
Disconnect SDD and the battery support unit /power supply.

 

 

Do you have any photos of the work you did replacing this unit? The ones on ebay seem to be used and so I'm not sure of their reliability. I can't find any instructions on how to replace the display either or specs. There are a number of copies of the unit available that come from chine but nit sure about these companies either.

Graham

 

There are a number of threads that cover this subject but having read them I was no closer to a solution and so I thought I’d write about my experiences. I have a 2007 XK convertible which I have owned since 2015 and love the car but losing the Touch Screen Display (TSD) is one of the most frustrating things of the 4 year ownership. I realize that the problem I had has been discussed in a number of threads. The screen goes out after a number of minutes, can come back on after an ignition restart, goes off quicker at higher brightness, setting at 50% brightness seems to extend life but after a period of time you need to reduce the brightness to get longer periods of life out of the display. I thought I’d give folks some info of my journey to try and solve the issue. I have electronics experience and symptoms suggested a failure of the backlight circuit (Touch screen still worked and could be seen with a bright LED light), or a heating problem, as the display does get hot and there is a thread that suggested that Jaguar put out a note to install a fan behind the unit. I have found no such document and local Jag dealer has no clue about this. Before I continue I need to let you know that I had a new AGM battery in 2017, many suggest that the electronic issues are caused by battery issues, with no change in TSD behavior. (I could not find a circuit diagram for the TSD and therefore didn’t want to troubleshoot it myself).

I decided to replace the screen and found a guy in the UK on EBAY who has a number of new units, manufactured around the same time as my original one. The supplier was LJCMotors and I had many conversations with Lee, the owner, who was extremely helpful and insisted the units were new which I was skeptical of until I received the unit. Screen protector was still attached, the fiber-optic plug protector was in place too. This was a new unit. So the question to answer now was how to safely remove the old screen. For this there is a YouTube video on how to do this by a company called Hi-Tech Electronic Services in Van Nuys, CA, who repair many makes of car electronics. Removing the wood bezel was easier than I had anticipated but be patient with this. Here is the YouTube video:


And here is their website:

https://hitechserv.com/

More on these guys later.

I installed the new unit and all was good for about 30 minutes and then I had the same behavior as my original unit. LJC Motors was prepared to send me another unit at no charge and then return my unit later. I suggested that I would keep the unit while I sent Hi-Tech my old one for repair. Beijan at Hi-Tech is a very knowledgeable person and tries to be as helpful as possible. So then things started to get stranger. On a long journey I set the new display at almost no brightness and low contrast. Drove for 2 hours and could still see a faint image at the end of the journey, then on the way back I increased the brightness another step and I had no problems, screen stayed on. I then increased again and again then increased contrast step by step. It has now been running for 3 weeks at full brightness without going out. This is perplexing because it’s July/August/September and 90 deg temps are not uncommon and driving with the top down doesn’t seem to do anything to create a heating problem. (BTW this screen problem previously happened at all times of the year). I have not replaced the bezel trim yet and wonder if that helps heat to escape the console. An experiment I will try later.

I then got a call from Hi-Tech that said they had found nothing wrong with the original display but did change the board in the unit. I have that display back now but I’m not sure what to do. Do I change the display back to my own unit and risk a problem or do I leave well alone and wait to see how to progress from here. Any advice would be great because maybe, just maybe, this problem is not in the display unit itself but a blank screen and the touch screen still working would suggest that’s where the problem is. If anyone has any suggestions on their experiences please respond.

Lee, at LJCMotors, suggested the light sensor as a potential problem but my head lights, dash lights all come on at night and in poor light as you would expect. LJCMotors can be contacted at lee.ljcmotors@googlemail.com.

Repair costs are $350 - $650 depending on the cause, mine was $550. The new unit was 489 pounds ($586 in todays dollars)

Graham

 

Update on my previous post.

Replaced the wood trim and drove the car for 90 minutes to Cape May and then the return. Screen worked perfectly the whole journey. Still no idea why. No blackouts to date.

Graham