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very interested to hear the results you get. - I have had my rs now for about a half a year and starting to think it could use more power. - I am interested to see how this works out for you.
Are you only putting EBC yellow stuff in the rear? do they offer better performance over OEM?
Also, have you looked into eurocharged? they seem to have a good tune/pulley package from what i have read.
If money were no object and I was tracking/dragging mine I;d fit wortec discs (which I have) and their own race compound 8 pot front calipers and 6 pot rears (which I can't afford)
pic of rotors below:
The rotors alone will save you 45lbs in unsprung, their calipers another 30lbs
very interested to hear the results you get. - I have had my rs now for about a half a year and starting to think it could use more power. - I am interested to see how this works out for you.
Are you only putting EBC yellow stuff in the rear? do they offer better performance over OEM?
Also, have you looked into eurocharged? they seem to have a good tune/pulley package from what i have read.
I know of Vlad at Eurocharged in Toronto. I also met a fellow who had his F Type R tuned from there and was happy with them. I ended up with Viezu/Paramount after much deliberation - there are obviously quite a few good options out there. My tech was super impressed with the results from Viezu of the 2 prior installs he had done. My conversations with Viezu as well as the data sets they sent to me gave me good degree of comfort as well. All in all I think at this level all contenders are almost equal in the product and the results but I picked Vizeu. As they say the proof is in the pudding. I will keep you guys updated as to my experiences with this investment.
The rear brakes needed doing and I read that the EBC yellow stuff does better over stock. Supposedly the aramid fibers provide less fade, grab better, less dust. Ill keep you guys updated on this too. When the time comes I plan on changing the fronts aswell.
[QUOTE=MarkyUK;2084621]If money were no object and I was tracking/dragging mine I;d fit wortec discs (which I have) and their own race compound 8 pot front calipers and 6 pot rears (which I can't afford)
pic of rotors below:
The rotors alone will save you 45lbs in unsprung, their calipers another 30lbs[/QUOTE
Those look amazing !-I read about wortec on the f type forums - anyone in particular to reach out to over there to get more information on cost / fitment and daily driveability of this setup?
In general terms, tunes are "cheap" power and the real cost is durability. Specifically, on a supercharged engine heat will be the main concern. For any tuning effort it is also necessary to improve cooling, otherwise your engine is on a suicide watch. At least in F-type, 5.0 engine is right up to a limit on ability to deal with heat. While the engine itself can produce more power, the cooling system isn't up to the task to keep it all under control in all circumstances. Once you get too hot, detonations start happening and it is game over for your engine.
My suggestion to R Bhal is to invest into better cooling system along with tuning. Also consider ceramic coating exhaust manifolds to help engine bay temps.
Speaking of the pudding, have you done exploratory disassembly of the engine that grenade on you to determine the cause of failure?
Brilliant -engine - pudding- had a good chuckle over that one- The tech will take a proper look once he pulls out the engine. I'll try to post pics. To your other note about cooling- couldnt agree more- I ran into cooling issues with the stock setup after a few laps around Lime Rock.
That was when i decided Iwanted to invest in a better braking system and cooling system. I did order a more effecient intercooler as part of the upgrade package. Any links to data regarding ceramic coating the manifold - my cursory googling drew up mixed results.
Was also thinking of having a metal shop louver my bonnet as per the XKRS GT or the final 50. Open to any other suggestions The upgraded intercooler on order
Any suggestions? I looked at the Johnson CM30 but tests vs the bosch unit in y car showed the same flow. If anyone has any eperience on this please chime in.
Those look amazing !-I read about wortec on the f type forums - anyone in particular to reach out to over there to get more information on cost / fitment and daily driveability of this setup?
Is probs best to contact them directly and check if they have a distributor in your country:
Appreciate that supersports (non ventilated) seats save 7kg each over stock, I have no rear backbox saving 20kg plus the 20kg saving of the Wortec's
Plus I weigh a mere 72kgs when the average is 83kg here in the UK, so my car (with me in it) should be 51-65kg lighter than any other 5l XKR out there, which logically means it should go faster!!
As to driveablity, since no other XK has them fitted the voting panel is of one - me!
No difference to stock in normal town driving, hard braking at speed I'd say is 30% up, but appreciate that my pads/discs that came off had lost 20%, the brake fluid had a water content of over 4% (high for a car less than 5yrs old) . So may well be a placebo effect.
I used the Bosch 010 pump used in Mercedes at first as I had one laying around. IATs dropped around 15-20 degrees in the summer heat and recovery was much better. Later I swapped it out for a Pierburg CWA 050 and recovery is faster still. In winter IATs are about 10-15f above ambient and up to 25f above ambient in the summer. I also split the system. Don’t use a JOHNSON fish tank or bilge pump. They are not designed for this application.
I used the Bosch 010 pump used in Mercedes at first as I had one laying around. IATs dropped around 15-20 degrees in the summer heat and recovery was much better. Later I swapped it out for a Pierburg CWA 050 and recovery is faster still. In winter IATs are about 10-15f above ambient and up to 25f above ambient in the summer. I also split the system. Don’t use a JOHNSON fish tank or bilge pump. They are not designed for this application.
I looked up the reviews and comments on the Pierburg CWA 050 and ordeed it. Thanks for the direction. On a side bot my new to me engine arrived today. Pics below. Things are about to get exciting!
The tire was exciting but not as much as the strap! - .i think i got a good deal. $8500 CAD for a used 2016 SVR engine with 60K so ill take any freebies included.
While the new engine is still out, I recommend you replace plastic cooling pipes and a water pump as a preventative measure. Both are known weak points that are absolutely PITA to address unless you have engine out.
While the new engine is still out, I recommend you replace plastic cooling pipes and a water pump as a preventative measure. Both are known weak points that are absolutely PITA to address unless you have engine out.
Thanks SinF- will let my guy know. He is also doing new timing chain/ guides and rails while engine is out. Let me know if anything else. Thanks.
Jaguar swapped ECU manufacturers around 2012 I believe. Are you sure you this later model engine and electronics will communicate properly with and early ECU ? Super chargers went from vacuum controlled to Electronic around the same time also so not sure about compatibility there either. I am certainly no expert on when the change happened but it is worth checking before you do the install.
Jaguar swapped ECU manufacturers around 2012 I believe. Are you sure you this later model engine and electronics will communicate properly with and early ECU ? Super chargers went from vacuum controlled to Electronic around the same time also so not sure about compatibility there either. I am certainly no expert on when the change happened but it is worth checking before you do the install.
This engine is compatible other than the oil pan - my guys did all the research and sourced me this engine- i believe the 2017 is when the supercharger went to electronic control in these engines. Also I am getting the custom tune from Vizeu for this car so shouldn't be an issue. But please keep the comments coming- it is the pooling of knowledge/ asking questions makes these sorts of forums so great.
If you run into issues with electronics, I recall reading on XJ (I think) forum about engine swap from a newer model. They ended up using old electronics with a new long block.
I am surprised you decided to do chain and guides on a donor engine - it is still too new to require that. While some V8s (e.g. some of classic Mercedes) have very problematic chain setup, Jaguars haven't had issues. Personally, if it was my car I would limit it to chain tensiometer replacement.
Also, while you have engine out you can easily do some neat performance mods:
a. Port match exhaust headers to block. This improves exhaust flow and gives you better throttle response and a couple HPs.
b. Ceramic coat exhaust manifold - this will lower engine bay temperature.
c. Since you have to redo oil pan to fit your car - go all out and have custom one designed with baffles suitable for racing.
d. I am not sure about XKR-S, but vanilla XKR and F-type does not have optimized air flow through the front bumper. That is, JLR prioritized fuel economy and not cooling. You can open it up more to improve cooling.
e. Consider sending your new supercharger to get ported and polished. Especially with a pulley and tune extra air flow would buy you a bit more room before SC hits max efficiency. This means that power won't peak at 5750 rpm like it does right now.
f. If you do the above, also have intake port matched, similar to a.
$$ - get your heads ported and polished, this will improve airflow buying you extra HP when combine with a tune
$$$ - get sodium-filled valves installed, this will allow you to bump your redline and improve head cooling
$$$$ - If you going to go nuts with performance mods, have your crankshaft dynamically balanced. This should allow you to bump your redline by 250-500 rpm.
