The AJV8 & V6 are very well known for having timing chain tensioner failures. There are multiple service bulletin numbers relating to this. Talk to a technician at a busy dealership and they will tell you they are dealing with failures on a regular basis.

Replacing them while the motor is out is a wise piece of preventative maintenance.

 

Stuart, chain tensioner and timing chain and guides are distinctly different components with different modes of failures. You can have one fail independently from another. Have you seen any evidence for AJV8 or V6 experiencing any chain and guides related issues?

 

Sure, but while you're in there wouldn't you replace all of it? Seems like fase economy not to.

 

And yes, the timing chains are known to stretch and then will skip, especially if you're doing a lot of stuff like static revving.

 

Are they know to stretch on AJV8 & V6 engines? I haven't heard of a single report on this forums.

 

OK guys a few updates-
The original engine grenaded due to oil restriction in cylinder 1. Bearings failed and rod broke off causing havoc.
My delivery of my go fast bits and pieces from Viezu came in and that did not go to plan. I was away from home when the delivery came in and my wife took a picture and sent it to me.

As you can imagine I was rather upset. I was honestly expecting missing parts. But luckily everything was there and most items were very well packed. There was a problem however with the crank pulley. It was damaged


i reached out to Jack at Viezu and he was aghast. He readily agreed that this was unacceptable. To their credit they immediately sent out a new one no questions asked and it has arrived in perfect condition. Jack said he would follow up with the shipping company - not too sure if anything will come out of that but still good to know.



Below are all the mods/ updates I am doing to my car.


Intercooler
Small supercharger pulley
Crank pulley
Belt
ECU tune
Rear ECB rotors /yellowstuff pads
Pierburg cwa 50 pump with controller
Mishimoto universal oil catch can

New to me engine from 2016 Range SVR -60k KM on the motor
Replace all guides, rails, timing chain, and anything else that needs doing at this juncture. My tech says the engine is very clean and is happy with it.

Should have my car back next week. Will go into the dealership and take progress pics.

 

Some feedback - you don't need both pulleys with stock SC. The key reason for this is that it is already at drop off efficiency before red line with stock set up. With both pulleys all you doing is moving your max boost to lower engine RPM range, this means you will experience drop off sooner. You need bigger SC, or at the very least have both existing SC and intake manifold ported and port matched.

 

What is your oil change interval? If 15K or 1 year on a tuned car that you also racing, this is likely why. Extreme use and mods require you to half manufacturer's recommendations for everything. Also, are you using correct spec oil or just generic synthetic?

I would also look into transmission fluid and filter - it experienced the same type of stresses/extreme use you put on your engine.

 

I was on 1 year interval. It was scheduled to go in for an oil change on a Wednesday and this happened on the Sunday prior. Always correct spec oil. No cheaping out there. I will talk to the tech about the transmission fluid and filter.

 

Every single timing chain on every engine stretches, without exception.
Its vital to realize this. As it answers all the subsequent and corresponding questions.
And that's how the tensioner is related.
If a TC was the perfect length, it would not matter if the tensioner fails.

RBhal
if the engine is used and out of the car. You would be buying insurance if you changed the TC.
Inside this engine- its the biggest wear item. (as it is in all direct injected engines).
Not a failure concern, only prudence, insurance.

 

Considering your tunes and racing, this is excessively long. Both of these are what is considered extreme use. If all you did is gently drive your car to Bingo nights, then 1 year interval would have been fine.

 

First of all shout out to SinF and mufc. They called it first. The electrics on my car are Denso to the Bosch on the donor engine so we will be taking the old electrics and moving them over. Also the supercharger is not compatible so reusing my old one.
We started disassembly on Tuesday and what we found was not pretty.

On the hoist

Internal damage in cylinder 1

Bits and pieces

Rod or whats left of it

Part of the pistion aswell

Block

Arm and shoe

Will keep you guys posted. Also ordered kN filters for air box

 

OK clean up the old block and paint it and then put a glass top on it and you've got a good talking piece coffee table.

 

The arm and shoe represents the repair costing an arm and a leg?

That brake rotor doesn't look too good either.

Thanks for sharing, look forward to you getting it up and running again.

 

I am curious as to what goal you may be aspiring to in regards to the HP of the new set-up? Is 650+ HP an achievable target?

 

Brilliant idea. But the deal with the engine was that they get the old core☹

 

The dyno chart from Viezu shows 650 HP on an FType with all the goodies + a free flow exhaust. So my guess is i will be a little less than that.

 

From looking at the big end on that rod, she was on fire before she came unglued...

Lack of lubricity eats another 5.0....

Any oil system parts you are swapping need cleaned out thoroughly to include the coolers and hoses. The last thing you want is to cross contaminate and blow the replacement.

 

At this point I'm in for a penny in for a pound- also looking forward to getting it back at home. Thanks mate👍

 

Sound advice. Will pass it on. Yes i was lucky on two counts. That it grenaded on the down stroke of the piston and it didnt blow through my oil pan.

....obviously still very unlucky that this happened at all.
To avoid lubricty problems I am now on 6k or 6 months oil changes on the new engine. ALSO oil change immedietly after it has been on a car rally/ track event.