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02 XK8 - Heat, Coil Packs and Splicing in Pigtails
Hey all. I'm wonder what folks thing about this before I move forward.
I have a 2002 xk8 4.0 with the fairly well sealed covers for the 8 coil packs. I've always wondered about the heat under there and at one point had left them open completely.
Anyways, I have to replace some of the connectors to the coil packs. Some of the wiring has become exposed, especially at the point where the wire goes into the connectors. I have replacement connectors and was going to use a shrink wrap product that has the solder built in,,, where you heat the wrap, the solder melts and fuses the connection providing a water proof shield/cover.
I'm wondering. Does it get hot enough under that cover, with the heat of the engine, to compromise the function of soldering connector? Will it re-melt the solder in the connections?
I have NO idea how to get info on the temperature under the covers... None.
Jay, I double checked my memory that solder melts at 800 degrees farenheit. Surprised to see that nowadays with lead free solder it melts a a wide range of temps from a couple of hundred degrees, up to 800ish. I can't imagine a spool of plain old radio shack solder melts anywhere near the low end but it should be easy enough to research a specific brand. I wonder if the MSD sheets show melting temp. (Material safety Data sheet - should be available for any chemical based product sold in USA ).
Jay, I'd use regular electrical solder and separate shrink wrap. Hold a piece of the solder over your lighter flame. It wont melt.
Understood...
What melts the solder that come with solder built in,,, is a heat gun... That's what really raised questions for me in there use. I guess it could and would end up being a solder job consisting of like 16 joins,,, but if I could get away with using a slick new and fast product to get thru it faster, I would like to. More, it seems like a good product, just not for the application, maybe?
Wondering about the heat under that cover. I always have. I don't like the covers generally. Why set up a situation that cook the coils? 300degrees, 400 degrees, 500 degrees? What about on a summer day when it's alreadyb90 degrees. What's it get up ta,,, ya think?
Jay, a proper soldering iron is so much more precise heat application. A heat gun can get way hotter and spreads out all over the place.
I promise that if you get a large enough soldering iron, flux, and shrink wrap, you'll be much safer and a hot iron will make the connection in seconds. Bet you've not tried using flux or a 30watt sized iron if you expect headaches. Please excuse me if you have.
I have no idea what your soldering experience is mate. In case someone with less experience than you reads this, let me offer some pointers:
Let iron heat up to the point solder melts instantly when you touch it.
While iron heats, cut a length of shrink wrap and slide it on one of the wires to be soldered. It must be pushed back far enough that the heat from the soldering iron doesn't shrink it prematurely.
Clean the tip of the iron when hot. Fold up a paper towel to an inch x 3 inches. Wet the folded towel. Drag the tip of the iron across it. Rosin debris will be removed and harmlessly left on the towel.
Tin the tip. Now touch the solder to the tip. It will coat it in shiny metal.
Apply electric flux (don't mix up with plumbing flux) to the wire joint to be soldered. Touch the tinned hot iron tip to the wire and the flux. The heat of the iron will release the chemicals in the flux as it boils away, cleaning the wire to pure bare metal.
As the flux boils off, touch the solder to the area. Since the metal wire is now above solders melting point, solder will flow coating the area in a shiny joint. Never ever accept "*****" of solder, that means the wire was too cold.
Let it cool a bit. FWIW, I understand that M&Ps for the US Navy require the joint be left to settle untouched for a few minutes, but we're not working on an F15 here . If you slide the shrink wrap up too early, it will shrink on the way.
Slide shrink wrap over the joint, use a heat gun to quickly shrink it to seal. Yes one can use a soldering iron but it's way too easy to burn through the wrap or leave metal debris on it. ( one of the reasons I'm wary of all in one shrink/solder solutions)
Jay, long description, but all in the whole thing will take 15 or 30 seconds per connection.
Hope it helps.
John
Ps: yes the solder may very well have flux in it. Ignore that and buy some flux gel. Cuts the time by 75%....
Jay, a proper soldering iron is so much more precise heat application. A heat gun can get way hotter and spreads our all over the place.
I promise that if you get a large enough soldering iron, flux, and shrink wrap, you'll be much safer and ccx a hot iron will make the connection in seconds. Bet you've not tried using flux or a 30watt sized iron if you expect headaches. Please excuse me if you have.
I have no idea what your soldering experience is mate. In case someone with less experience than you read this let me offer some pointers:
Let iron heat up to the point solder melts instantly when you touch it.
Whole iron heats, cut a length of shrink wrap and slide it on one of the wires to be soldered. It must be pushed back far enough that the heat from the soldering iron doesn't shrink it prematurely.
Clean the tip of the iron while hot. Fold up a paper towel to an inch x 3 inches. Wet the folded towel. Drag the tip of the iron across it. Rosin debris will be removed and harmlessly left on the towel.
Tin the tip. Now touch the solder to the tip. It will cost it in shiny metal.
Apply flux to the wire joint to be soldered. Touch the tinned hot iron tip to the wire and the flux. The heat of the iron will release the chemicals in the flux, cleaning the wire to pure bare metal.
As the flux boils off touch the solder to the area. Since the metal wire is now above solders melting point, solder will flow coating the area in a shiny joint.
Let it cool a bit. FWIW, I understand that M&Ps for the US Navy require the joint be left to settle for a few minutes, but we're not working on an F15 here . If you slide the shrink wrap up too early, it will shrink on the way.
Slide shrink wrap over the joint, use a heat gun to quickly shrink it to seal. Yes one can use a soldering iron but it's way too easy to burn through the wrap or leave metal debris on it.
Jay, long description, but all in the whole thing will take 15 or 30 seconds.
Hope it helps.
John
Ps: yes the solder may very well have flux in it. Ignore that and buy some flux gel. Cuts the time by 75%....
Damn John!!! Thank you for all of that!
Not trying to be a smarty-pants, lol... I was working on this over the weekend. I should have mentioned that my choice to go this route isn't about fear of the iron... Believe me, I don't have tons of experience,,, could be better with it, but I'm getting more and more comfortable with the iron. This is a cruise control ECU from my 86 928. Reheating all of the points on this board to undo (can remember the exact name) the separation of the components from solder that happens over time...
Anyways,,, people are raving about the pre-solder shrink wrap connectors... I saw a guy teaching a class for aircraft mechanics training students (not selling anything) using them. I do like the 420 degree number. I can't imagine things get as hot as that. I have been intending to vent my covers for a loooooong time anyways. Maybe now is the time...?
Brother, thank you for you amazing and well done explainations!!! Really! I mean that!
Oh you are very welcome. Cool story about your 928 project. Don't forget that you can use a small dab of that flux to help your resoldering flow nicely.
Didn't realize you learned of the solder shrink from an airplane mechanic, maybe I'm too cautious about it.
Yeah,,, just something I came across on YouTube... Then another, and another... Pro's are using them... I just am unsure about heat in the application. But,,, I've googled and Google and I haven't found anything that says normal operating temperature in a running engine gets as high as the solder give point... And,,, I wanna vent my covers. It seems like the right thing to do for the life of the coils... The built it putting them in an oven.
Yeah man... People sharing the way you shared back there is what this thing is all about. Truly invaluable. Wisdom and experience passed on there, Bother. Thanks again!
Here's the Porsche... I'm excited.
Doing all the work on both of these machines, and the xk8... I'm surprised to have learned over these last 3 years that the work is exciting enough to keep me up at night, lol... I never was exactly a car guy so to speak. My girl is always teasing me... Fancy photos. She not quite as nice when ya get up close and personal. Rescued... Just reupholstered the whole of the interior... It's taking longer than I expected but yup,,, keeps me occupied.
Not trying to be a smarty-pants, lol... I was working on this over the weekend. I should have mentioned that my choice to go this route isn't about fear of the iron... Believe me, I don't have tons of experience,,, could be better with it, but I'm getting more and more comfortable with the iron. This is a cruise control ECU from my 86 928. Reheating all of the points on this board to undo (can remember the exact name) the separation of the components from solder that happens over time...
Fascinating 'pre-modern' VDO board there. I assume when you are reworking this you're using some kind of desoldering tool, getting rid of the old solder, and starting afresh (even if it means 'starting afresh' several times to get a good solder joint)?
Jay, you were kind and appreciative of soldering notes above. Wanted tosupport Dale's note. . . if you're removing solder my vote is to buy a "solder wick" over a solder sucker. Some might disagree, both solutions have value & not starting a debate , I find wick easier to use.
For anyone who doesn't recognize that term: solder wick is a thin braided roll of copper. Almost looks like fabric, but it's all copper. Just place the wick on top of the connection to be desoldered and apply the hot tip of your soldering iron. The heat will melt the solder and the braided structure of the wick will just suck the melted solder off the joint (hence the name - wicking action). When section of braid is coated, just cut it off and continue with fresh copper.
Bet you already knew this, excuse if redundant.
John
Last edited by Johnken; Nov 2, 2019 at 05:04 PM.
Reason: Somehow mixed up Dale's name - sorry Dale
02 XK8 - Heat, Coil Packs and Splicing in Pigtails
. If you slide the shrink wrap up too early, it will shrink on the way.
