03 gas smell at the fuel rail?
What you are looking at is your puslation damper. Just upside down.
The leak is either from the O-ring inside or the crimped pins.
If you read the post suggested earlier you will find the following:
Factory recomends you do not rebuild this part.
Rebuilding is possibly as found out by Maddawwgh, but it will leak again.
The damper is there to reduce noise in the fuel rail and is not necessary for proper engine operation.
Several members (with XKR's) have opted to remove them (both sides) and weld the cups shut.
All report no problem operating their cars afterwards.
New fuel rail, if available is $1400. Welding is $100.
I hope this helps you with your decissions.
The leak is either from the O-ring inside or the crimped pins.
If you read the post suggested earlier you will find the following:
Factory recomends you do not rebuild this part.
Rebuilding is possibly as found out by Maddawwgh, but it will leak again.
The damper is there to reduce noise in the fuel rail and is not necessary for proper engine operation.
Several members (with XKR's) have opted to remove them (both sides) and weld the cups shut.
All report no problem operating their cars afterwards.
New fuel rail, if available is $1400. Welding is $100.
I hope this helps you with your decissions.
Thanks JM. I am sending the rails out to Injector RX to have them capped and the injectors cleaned.
How hard is it to get the rails off? When if I pull the rail do I need to O-rings for the parts that have them (injectors)?
How hard is it to get the rails off? When if I pull the rail do I need to O-rings for the parts that have them (injectors)?
This 03 is turning out to have more issues than the 97 I had. As it has been said here many a time, unless you can do the work yourself to a degree you are ganna pay out the **** to have it done. Great to find info here on how in this case get around the leaky damper.
Carefullly
I dont recall anything particularly difficult when I pulled and reinstalled from the 2000 xkr. Just wiggle until loose, dont poke with anything that might cut the orings, slight lube on reinstall.
What are you complaining about???
Now you are having fun and paying to learn. You will soon have a smile in your face when you are motoring trouble free going down the road and your neighbors all turn to look at your fancy car.
What are you complaining about???
Now you are having fun and paying to learn. You will soon have a smile in your face when you are motoring trouble free going down the road and your neighbors all turn to look at your fancy car.
I just got the radiator fluid leaks stopped, I hope can't drive it long enough to monitor levels, ha ha ha. Once this next repair I did not expect is done, I have front end work to do.
Jeeze you guys, cut me some slack about the long thread RE: pulsation dampers leaking. I was forging new ground two years ago and wanted to be complete with my coverage. Reading is kinda the way we learn, right?
Get over it!
brgjag: Yes, what you have are absolutely leaking pulsation damper(s)
Sorry to hear that for you. Get rid of them!!!! They ARE NOT NEEDED on a V-8 engine with the fuel pulse pattern that our cars have. (An in-line six cyl may be a different story) On the V-8, they are ONLY used for making the engine a little bit quieter. You cannot buy new replacement fuel rails so the ONLY reasonable choice is to eliminate them, by capping them off like I did, or have them removed and the holes left in the rail tig-welded closed. Removing the rails for the job is not too difficult on your XK8.
In any event, whether you do it yourself or have it done for you, elimination of them WILL solve your fuel leak problem.
I've put 20,000 miles on my 2003 since I got rid of those needless turds and it's still stink free! (and it really doesn't make much more noise than before - just a little tiny tick tick tick - most will never hear. Luck to you!
-Max
Get over it!
brgjag: Yes, what you have are absolutely leaking pulsation damper(s)
Sorry to hear that for you. Get rid of them!!!! They ARE NOT NEEDED on a V-8 engine with the fuel pulse pattern that our cars have. (An in-line six cyl may be a different story) On the V-8, they are ONLY used for making the engine a little bit quieter. You cannot buy new replacement fuel rails so the ONLY reasonable choice is to eliminate them, by capping them off like I did, or have them removed and the holes left in the rail tig-welded closed. Removing the rails for the job is not too difficult on your XK8.
In any event, whether you do it yourself or have it done for you, elimination of them WILL solve your fuel leak problem.
I've put 20,000 miles on my 2003 since I got rid of those needless turds and it's still stink free! (and it really doesn't make much more noise than before - just a little tiny tick tick tick - most will never hear. Luck to you!

-Max
Last edited by maxwdg; Oct 9, 2014 at 07:27 PM.
I have NEVER taken a fuel rail off. What is involved? Disconnect the battery of course, then let the pressure off the system someway, is there a valve on the rail that can do this. Do the injectors just pill out of the intake?
I say the project is easy - but then, if your not a guy that was taking your Dad's lawnmower apart to see what makes it work by the age of seven, you MAY want to reconsider going to an independent shop. Tell them precisely what you want done. (Take the fuel rails off and remove the damned dampers, their "cups" and weld or braise up the holes. Then put it back together) Its not hard, but it is fiddley - but what on a Jaguar is not overly complicated? The XK8 is less of a hassle than the supercharged cars are. You will need a pretty good complement of metric implements and a Ford fuel line release tool.
Word of caution - not meant to scare. I approached the job with complete confidence, and excepting the week it took waiting for my injectors to be cleaned and inspected by "Injector RX," it still took me three work sessions of about five hours each to complete the task. And THEN THE CAR DID NOT RUN! I apparently bumped a massive wiring harness connector that resides on top of the transmission bell housing and loosed one of the over fifty connections inside. It took me over a MONTH to figure this problem out. A local Jag mechanic threw his arms up after six hours with no success in diagnosing the problem.
I finally found the right "problem" connection using an "old school" dual trace oscilloscope and looking at each injector's firing pattern. I took the big connector apart and cleaned each and every one of the gold plated male and female connections. She has run perfect since! But damn! What a hassle.....
I'd bet a local shop would do the deed for 500-700 dollars and then, if THEY bump a connector......
Cheers!
-Max
Last edited by maxwdg; Oct 10, 2014 at 01:56 PM. Reason: spelling
The tool is used to release the spring grip on the fuel line connector to the rail. Go to page 3 of my "Too Long Didn't Read" thread and look at the captioned pictures and you will see the fuel line connector with out the fuel line hooked up and you'll be able to see the little flange on the edge. That's the edge the spring on the line connector catches on.
There's a way to make one out of PVC pipe that a member outlined in a thread about replacing the fuel pump (another fuuuuuun project you have to look forward too!) But seriously, the tool can be had for less than $10 and you'll use it again, I promise.
Injector RX will replace all the O-rings with new ones of the proper size.
There's a way to make one out of PVC pipe that a member outlined in a thread about replacing the fuel pump (another fuuuuuun project you have to look forward too!) But seriously, the tool can be had for less than $10 and you'll use it again, I promise.
Injector RX will replace all the O-rings with new ones of the proper size.
If you can get to the seam in the cup with it still installed why not just release the gas pressure and get a big *** slobering iron and just solder the damn things shut together in place?
Dave
Dave
Here is the rail out and the pulsation dampener capped by Fuel Injector Cleaning & Flow Testing Service. I had both sides done and the rail and injectors cleaned and new o-rings for 250.00 shipped back to my door. Pretty much the day they got it they fixed it (no major snags in fixing mine) and shipped it back out.
So how ya' doin?
Hey BRGJAG! That looks really well thought out, and what they charged you was reasonable too. I wish that they had figured this stuff out when I was having the problems with mine. Congrats for your DIY fix man!
Plums:
I'm doing well, but the Jag has not failed me lately so I haven't spent much time hangin' around. Additionally, I have taken a new job within the same company, and it has taken a lot of my time. I'm still very much involved in the car and Jaguar hobbies as I have recently been voted in as the vice president of our local Jaguar club. My wife was voted in as "vice president of fun!" Hah Hah!!
For my lady's birthday, I bought her a 30,000 mile 1995 XJ-S 6cyl convertible this summer. It's as if it were a new car! It was a regional concours winner. Also, I have spent quite a bit of time in August and September getting my 1962 Dodge Max Wedge super-stock race car clone licensed. It has been a "full race" car since 1989 and when Kansas City lost it's only local Drag Strip in 2011, I put it in the garage and haven't been driving it at all. It took some work, but I have now outfitted it to legally be driven on the roads here in Missouri. With 560 horse power and 4:30 rear gears, it's a handful to drive - but it's certainly a hoot!
I'm still driving the XKR daily - she recently passed 100K miles - SAD DAY.......
Plums:
I'm doing well, but the Jag has not failed me lately so I haven't spent much time hangin' around. Additionally, I have taken a new job within the same company, and it has taken a lot of my time. I'm still very much involved in the car and Jaguar hobbies as I have recently been voted in as the vice president of our local Jaguar club. My wife was voted in as "vice president of fun!" Hah Hah!!
For my lady's birthday, I bought her a 30,000 mile 1995 XJ-S 6cyl convertible this summer. It's as if it were a new car! It was a regional concours winner. Also, I have spent quite a bit of time in August and September getting my 1962 Dodge Max Wedge super-stock race car clone licensed. It has been a "full race" car since 1989 and when Kansas City lost it's only local Drag Strip in 2011, I put it in the garage and haven't been driving it at all. It took some work, but I have now outfitted it to legally be driven on the roads here in Missouri. With 560 horse power and 4:30 rear gears, it's a handful to drive - but it's certainly a hoot!
I'm still driving the XKR daily - she recently passed 100K miles - SAD DAY.......
well I hav eit all hooked up, sinched down. Fired it up and after over a week with battery disconnected the MOMENT I fired it up engine light is on as it was before I took it all apart. Oh well it ran well before and does now. I turned on the car and let the fump fill up the rails for a little bit then it fired pretty much right up. No leaks at any of the injectors that I could see. But the fuel pressure regulator front side of pass fuel rail is leaking, because of I bet I did not change the orings. So I either find the part at ford, ford part number on mine or change the black orings. Can I do that and if so where can I find them?????
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