2006 XK8 that just turned 90,000 miles....

I'm planning to change the factory fuel filter next week as part of the 90,000-mile service. I know the fuel lines are supposed to clip on rather than screw on. Some guys have said they needed to use a fuel line disconnect tool, some guys have said they did not need the tool, just keep pushing on the white plastic release tabs while twisting the fuel line and it will eventually pop off....

So who's right? Should I have a 5/16-inch disconnect tool on hand just in case? I sure don't want to break any fragile plastic parts of these clips if I can help it. Knowing exactly what to expect would be good, especially when having to work in this tight space with my gorilla-sized hands. Thanks....

 

I changed the fuel filter on my 05 this week and spend hours prior reading through this thread, downloading and poring over the photos, with the result I wasn't at all sure how it would go. On the day it went like this:
Ordered the filter from David Manners (C2S20977), they sent me a Filtron PP905, which is the same dimensionally as the one that was replaced.
Jack and axle stand the left rear, remove the tyre.
I removed the three heat shield plastic nuts. Wouldn't bother doing this next time, just bend the heat shield out of the way - it does bend back undamaged.
The filter bracket has two nuts; the one closest to the car car center-line (10mm) can be left - it just holds the bracket to the body. The outer (8mm) clamps the filter, access is a sod - I used a mix of socket extensions and a universal to get it off.
To disconnect the fuel lines:
Put an oil tray under the filter. You'll get around a half cup of fuel out of the filter.
Undo the 8mm nut, this allows the filter to slide up and down a little in the bracket, which makes access to the fittings easier.
Give the connectors a small twist to break the o-ring seal.
Wipe the connectors and you'll see the white buttons.
Chuck some safety glasses on, in case you do get a splash of petrol.
No need to depressurise the fuel system, just push in the lower connector white button and slide the connector back a little to depressurise the system.
Slide off the lower connector.
Slide the filter down in the bracket and disconnect the top connector, once it comes off you'll get the filter draining around a 1/2 cup of fuel.
New filter in and slide the connectors on until they click.
Tighten the 8mm nut.
Pressurise the fuel system to leak check. This needs the key cycled to ignition 2-3 times for the pump to pressurise the system.
Tyre on and dejack.
All up it took me around 40 minutes without rushing.

 

Much obliged for your crystal-clear, chronological instructions. It's always good to know what to expect before jumping into a new task for the first time. Thanks again....

 

Update:

I'm in the process right now of attempting to disconnect the fuel lines from my factory fuel filter. My fuel line connections look more like the Type B ones shown in the chart attached by Graham in post #7 of this thread. I'm assuming that the "tangs" referenced in the chart is the white-colored, half-exposed O-ring-looking plastic semicircle at the tip of each of the two fuel line connector boots. I've spent at least 20 minutes pushing, twisting, squeezing, and cursing at the lower one since it is easier for me to see and reach than the upper one is. I've successfully spun the fuel line on its fuel filter nozzle to make certain it is not seized on there. But I'll be damned if I can get this plastic "tang" to release. I know part of the problem is that my hands are far too big to gain any working room up into this very tight space. And I am doing my best trying not to force the white plastic semicircle with too much pressure because I know I'll probably break it....

Any specific advice from those of you who are familiar with these fittings would be greatly appreciated. I do indeed want to change this factory fuel filter but I do not want to break these plastic clips in the process....

 

Update:

I finally got the white plastic clips to release by using a very small flat-head screwdriver to push them in. The tight working space combined with my fingers being far too big prevented me from releasing the clips without some help from a small tool....

The fuel dripping from inside my factory fuel filter (April 2005 was stamped on its casing) was a nasty grey color. I definitely will not wait another 90,000 miles before I change the fuel filter again....

I went with a Motorcraft FG-986B fuel filter that I had ordered from amazon.com about six weeks ago. Its casing was slightly smaller in diameter than the factory Jaguar filter, so I wrapped it in five or six layers of duct tape to get a tight fit in the bracket before reinstalling the bracket on the car. I paid just over $11 for the Motorcraft filter with free shipping. Its fittings are exactly the same as the Jaguar filter, so the fuel line connector clips clicked perfectly into place when I reinstalled them....

 

Good to hear that you got it, it isn't the easiest of jobs for those of us with sausage fingers...

 

Jon89, just wanted to confirm, is this the filter you used?

 

I fat-fingered the part number when I typed it in earlier (I have since corrected it). The correct part number for this fuel filter is Motorcraft FG-986B. So yes, that is indeed the filter I used....