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I recently picked up an '06 XKR from Copart and it has a coolant leak and a Check Engine Light.
I checked below the engine and it seems like the coolant is leaking towards the back side of the engine closer to the gearbox, I checked from above and noticed that there seems to be a steady leak *when running under the intake pipe that connects to the supercharger manifold (I believe it is, I'm new to the layout of the engine.)
Additionally, I pulled a P0300,P0302,P0304,P0306,P1316,P0101. I searched it up and found out that its a random misfire and misfire on cylinder 2,4 and 6 I'm not sure what's the cause on the P0300 and P1316 since some people specified that they are both misfires. I believe the P0101 is a MAF sensor code but I could be wrong, if it is actually a MAF sensor code could I clean the MAF Sensor to start with?
*There is a Custom made K&N Open air filter installed by previous owner. the K&N filter
Some updates to the XKR, the coolant is leaking on level ground but not as bad, Mileage is on 171879 miles. It also says "Engine Coolant Low" when I power put key in ignition.
just a few pointers..
there is a level sensor in the Expansion tank which brings on the light . Should be full right to the top.
Misfire often caused by water in the spark plug wells and if the coil covers are not fitted 100 % that is where water can get in via hood vents.
Dont have a super charger so cannot help you on that one. But the is a thing called the octopus (of water pipes) under the expansion tank and some prone to failure Norma connectors (Push on connectors) down there. Pull out the expansion tank for a good look.
check out jagrepair.com and the xk8 bible (google it)
Last edited by Pistnbroke; May 19, 2023 at 01:07 AM.
I'm topping up the coolant tomorrow since I couldn't get the coolant from ford today, I'll check if the spark plugs are "waterlogged" too, In the mean time I'm trying to figure out the sizing for my intake since I could possibly change that first when cleaning the MAF sensor just to make sure that isn't the problem.
If you got the original air box put that back ..those filters are crap ..I know I lived in the Australian dustbowl outback. Also you dont take in cold air from under the wing.
When you take out the coil look for oil on the end and blow out the recess . If you got no air use a syringe to suck it out.
You dont need expensive ford antifreeze as long as its orange not blue then its OAT and its OK. If its leaking then use water till you find the leak and drain it and re fill with concentrated OAT you cannot get all the water out ..about half Drain on RHS radiator to rear ..you need a large washer or coin to get it out not a flat blade.
Last edited by Pistnbroke; May 19, 2023 at 04:08 AM.
Unfortunately the original air box did not come with the car, I could not find it in the trunk but it's not really that big of a deal for me as it is done in an adequate manner. I do know that open / cold air intake does not do much to a "performance" car but I think it looks quite fitting for now.
I'm currently waiting for a tune up kit I bought off of rockauto, I decided to order some from them as they are currently the quickest and budget friendly option for me. I will check the coils and replace probably cyl 2,4,6 since those are the only cylinders to trigger the misfire sensor.
I realized that I do not need the ford antifreeze the reason that I went to them is because my local autozone and o'reilly is fully out. I will try to check more thoroughly once I can run it to a diy workshop.
Most likely cause of this leak is the valley pipe. Search on this forum there is a lot of info on the issue.
Will do, it's my first FI engine let alone a Jaguar, I needed some quick ideas on what to check and what the regular problems are, Thank you for the response.
Like someone already said the OEM intake is a cold air intake, what you have there is essentially a hot air intake.
I'm not quite sure how it is a hot air intake system, it does retain the heatshield and it looks a little bit less restrictive than the OE box, I'm pretty sure it is just as efficient maybe a little bit under from the OE box as the piping is not shortened (unlike short-rams) as it is still using the OE piping as well. I'm planning to add an extra layer of heatshield around it to make it a little bit better.
I have done a couple hot/warm air intake installation on some older cars and I can assure that they are very differently set up.
I'm no expert but the concensus seems to be that the OEM air intake is a good designs as it draws air directly from outside via the wheel arch. The aftermarket air intakes all tend to draw air from the engine bay which gets very hot in ours cars esspecially as some of us have superchargers as do I. The intercooler system already has a hard time dealing wth the charge heat so it's making the problem worse if you already start off with higher intake temps. You can improve flow in the intake by replacing th eintake pipe that goes directly into the throttle body but it seems to be best to leave the OEM filter box alone otherwise. An improves intercooler coolant pump and increased radiator size is a good idea though.
My XK8 had that same set up when I got it. Hated the suction sound and it just looked tacky. Got a used assy. on Ebay. I think I still have the take off, if anyone wants it they can have it for shipping cost.
I'm not quite sure how it is a hot air intake system, it does retain the heatshield and it looks a little bit less restrictive than the OE box,…..”
the K&N aftermarket filters such as you have are considered “hot” intakes simply because the air is pulled in directly from the engine bay, which is way too hot for these cars.
the stock system routes the incoming air from the wheel well area, where is much cooler than the engine bay.
if one has to have a K&N filter (I don’t know why), then get the one that fits inside the stock air filter box so it retains the stock plumbing arrangement. As mentioned, you can find the stock air boxes on eBay all the time, I might even have a spare one, I’d have to look to be sure…..
Seriously, after you get the leak fixed, consider getting rid of the K&N cone filter. This is one instance where the Jaguar engineers did it right (with the cold air source). And the aftermarket cone filters are a step in the wrong direction.
the K&N aftermarket filters such as you have are considered “hot” intakes simply because the air is pulled in directly from the engine bay, which is way too hot for these cars.
the stock system routes the incoming air from the wheel well area, where is much cooler than the engine bay.
if one has to have a K&N filter (I don’t know why), then get the one that fits inside the stock air filter box so it retains the stock plumbing arrangement. As mentioned, you can find the stock air boxes on eBay all the time, I might even have a spare one, I’d have to look to be sure…..
Seriously, after you get the leak fixed, consider getting rid of the K&N cone filter. This is one instance where the Jaguar engineers did it right (with the cold air source). And the aftermarket cone filters are a step in the wrong direction.
Z
Ah I see what you mean, later down the road I'm planning to make the car OE+ so I might get an airbox off of ebay but for now I'm more focused on fixing it up and getting it on the road. Thanks for the input.
I recently bought 1 gal of ZEREX Dex-cool (I figured since it's compatible with WSS-M97B44-D) and tried topping off the XKR.
Once I started it up, it started dripping from 3 points, one of the points stopped but when I shut it down there is a stream of coolant leaking (see pict.)
The coolant stream *located a little bit behind the first photo
'06 XKR - Coolant Leak and some imperfections
