2001 coupe 4.0
started getting low water after 5 min of driving… bd head gasket.

Repaced hhead gaskets with metal 4.2 gaskets.( turned out the car already had metal gaskets.

everthing went smooth but I put incorrect bolts under the cam sensors. Car started right up but with rough idle and threw a cam sensor code and misfire on every cylinder? Once I figured out te correct. Bolts( solved that situation) but still rough idle. Car runs ok. ( gaskets fixed the original water issue.
still rough idle and 341 code . Installed new cam sensors car started right up but with still rough idle and 341 code. Have rebooted system after every component and electrical change. Cleared code and test drive with no codes and rough idle and shinty performance.
after short test drive no codes. Took on longer test drive on freeway. After a few minutes threw a restricted performance and it shut down at speed. Got her off the freeway.
Car shows a P1000 only? Car will crank but no hint of starting
has gas pressure ( shoots 6 feet in the air if you test the valve.
checked every fuse in the car, all good.
pulled plugs, bone dry.

car ran perfect with no codes before I replaced head gaskets.
timing was and is perfect, used all the correct tools ect…
new sark plugs
have switched coil packs all around with no change. Agin car ran perfect before engine work.
car has new good battery with proper charge.
car cranks wit no start and throws a P1000. Car will not start!,

any good ideas out there to help solve my situation?
thank in advance again, scott

 

How many kilometres/miles are showing on the instrument cluster?

Remove the spark plugs and check compression.

Remove the cam covers and check cam timing again.

 

compression 150 psi. After cranking and checking ,plugs are wet. I think I have lost all spark.

 

150psi is lowish but not low enough to not fire off. I wouldn't try to run it again without verifying timing.

 

How did you hold the crankshaft from turning whilst removing the 24mm bolt on the front pulley?

 

I am confused.
First it had dry plugs and perfect timing.
Next you say wet plugs and you don't think you have any spark.

How are you checking spark, and how are you checking fuel delivery? Are you getting a pulse for every injector when you crank? And a spark to go with it at the right time?

Could it be . . . .SATAN?
(the old secondary cam chain gremlin)

 

I'm sensing some frustration here, which is understandable if you've lost timing. If this happened to me, I would take it as an opportunity to replace all the timing chains and tensioners and re-align the whole mess. Only one way to make sure it's all in good nick.

 

This is an important question - if the OP used the flywheel locating tool to hold the crank this could be a damage from that.

 

Getting back to my problem
2001 4.0 114,000 ran exellent till small compression leak..
replaced head gaskets, all went smooth..bought correct tools to hold cams an crank ect…
put incorrect sequence on valve cover bolts- p341 code. corrected bolts and put in new cam sensors.
no codes but continual rough idle and poor performance.
ran compression test ..180 psi on driver side bank ..90 psi on passenger side bank car starts and runs but terrible. Quit on test drive and won’t re-start.
pulled down to find VVT on passenger side set incorrectly which put intake cam out of time.. Re-set and tested, timing corrected and double checked. C
put engine back together 180 psi on all cylinders. Engine sounds good but no hint of starting.
pressing schrader valve on fuel rail squirts fuel, will check correctly with gauge ( have to borrow from someone)
during compression check while pulling plugs they look dry.( like no spark or fuel)
checked all fuses everywhere , all good.
still have to check for spark.

thanks for the help , any other suggestions?

 

Hi Ktmscott,

By any chance was your crankshaft position sensor disconnected? Without its signal, the ECM will not trigger the injectors and coils to fire.

Since you have fuel pressure, it's probably not the inertia switch, which would disable the fuel pump.

Cheers,

Don

 

Found the 10 amp fuse to ignition coils bad . Couldn’t se but tests bad, all is good. Runs perfect now. Thanks again for all the help!

 

Good to hear that.
EFI doesn't put so much fuel into the pots as an old 4bbl that has been pumped. By the time you get the plug out it's dry either way.