I have been noticing that the raising and lowering of the top has gotten slower and slower. Recently, I have had to push up on the top to get it started lowering and detached from the windshield frame. A couple of days ago, I tried to raise/close the top and it was even slower. I had to pull down on it at the front to get the latch to engage.
I started reading threads on this and figured I would check the reservoir and lines. I was relieved to know that the fluid issues gelling only affected earlier models. I figured I would get some Pentosin in case it needed more fluid but decided to check first.
When I removed the panel on the left side in the boot/trunk, I discovered that the reservoir was indeed full but there were black and white particles everywhere. See photos attached.
Can anyone tell me about this and what it is from?
Also, what should be my next course of action to get the top raising and lowering correctly?
Thanks

 

Your factory top hydraulic hoses are disintegrating as they invariably do given the age of our cars. Time to replace them or go to manual top operation before the green shower strikes, which may be just a handful of top operations away at this point. There are now several reputable hydraulic hose choices....

 

The braiding of your hydraulic hose(s) is indeed self-disintegrating due to age, thus causing all the white bits and pieces showering.

I do not know the relationship between the hose braiding disintegration and the eventual hose/coupling rupture to give you a green shower.

I'd stop roof operation until all hydraulic hoses have been replaced to be safe. Your choice...

 

Well, the top is staying up until I figure this out. Degradation of the braiding on the hoses does not seem like it should affect operation as long as they are not leaking should it?
Top stays up for now. Besides, it is cold outside!

 

Greg, I'm a little concerned over the outer casings of the wiring harness being dissolved.
If you have one of the connections at the pump spraying fluid (leaking) that would give you a slow operation and need some help. Very surprised the level is not down.
Might want to get someone to push the button while you are back there and have a look, be sure to protect your eyes, it comes out in a hurry.

 

Wayne, I am a little afraid to try to move it as I am afraid it will not close again but I will give it a try in the next day or so. I haven't seen any sign of fluid loss.
FYI, I will be up in your area next week. If it wasn't for Covid, I would love to see your Triumphs.
Greg

 

Greg, hope you have a good trip and stay safe.
Would love to have you, but we do keep to ourselves at the present time. We even are careful on the golf course. Hate it, but don't play with guys that think it's a hoax. Sorry, that might be a political statement and it was not intended as such. I'm not fully recovered and I had it in June.
So I do understand.

 

Wayne
Sent you a PM
Totally understand and best of luck with your recovery.

 

well, I tried to lower the top and raise it and no oil leak. Funny that I have a 1971 Cutlass convertible that has original hydraulic lines on the top and they are still good but a 17 year old Jaguar, not so good.
Anyway. Anyone have any more ideas about why this top is getting so slow?
Do these hydraulic units go bad and not have enough pressure? Grasping at straw here.
THanks

 

If for any reason the valve with the T shaped handle near the pump is bumped that could probably slow operation of the convertible top. Less fluid to the top means it operates slower.
I'd check that T handle.

 

First I would check that the petcock is closed (clockwise) then I would fill the fluid to the top embossed line on the tank (it looks low). It does not matter if the roof is open or closed when you fill it.

As for it operating slow and you have no leaks put a little WD40 on the ram shafts. The rams will be fully extended when the roof is closed. The easiest way to do that is to spray the WD40 on your hands or rag and work it up and down on the ram shaft. After you have done that operate the roof then apply again. At the top of the rams it has 2 “O” rings to prevent leakage and they get dry.

Just as a side note the latch is also operated by a ram in the header and that shaft needs a little lubrication every now and then but it is hard to access. I would not be concerned until you see a problem with it.

Now your hoses! You need to keep an eye on them at the fittings that is where they begin to fail. One more thing do not pull, twist or bend them that will reduce the life of the hoses.