XK8 / XKR ( X100 ) 1996 - 2006

2003 XKR brake bleeding questions

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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 12:17 AM
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Default 2003 XKR brake bleeding questions

Is there a specific sequence to bleeding the 4 calipers on this vehicle that must be followed? Any issues or resets required when using a vacuum pump to bleed? Is it best to bleed before or after installing new pads?
 
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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 04:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Jag Pilot
Is there a specific sequence to bleeding the 4 calipers on this vehicle that must be followed? Any issues or resets required when using a vacuum pump to bleed? Is it best to bleed before or after installing new pads?
I always start with the shortest brake line and finish with the longest.

Definitely fit the new pads in first.

Never used a vacuum pump - my wife is well trained to follow 'press' and 'release' instructions!
 
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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 07:06 AM
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Why is the vacuum pump a problem? I never used one but would like to know.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 07:29 AM
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No problem using a vacuum pump.

Replace the pads first. Normal recommendations are to open the bleeder of the caliper you are working on before compressing the piston. Doing so prevents pushing whatever detritus that may have collected in the caliper back into the system. Secondly, it will reduce the amount of brake fluid required to flush the system.

Not to be argumentative but recommended practices by all brake manufacturers and OEMs are to begin bleeding sequence at the wheel position farthest from the master cylinder. The only exceptions I can recall are oddball vehicles like old Volvos with split-system calipers. But even then they were somewhat based on the farthest away practice. Personally, I've never had issues starting at any position, I'm just passing on information.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 10:13 AM
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My procedure is to replace the pads, then, using a pressure bleeder such as Motive Products, open each bleeder starting at the farthest from the master cylinder and work inwards to the closest last. I always use alternating color racing fluid from ATE (they have blue and gold) to ensure I get fresh fluid before closing the bleeder. The nice thing about a pressure bleeder is that it keeps from working the master piston over the ridge that can develop in the master cylinder bore. It also allows one person to bleed and refluid all the brakes in a few minutes. It will be one of the best tools you ever buy.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2012 | 10:29 AM
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Thanks all for sharing the knowledge...I've done this before but not real familiar with Jag and Brembo.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 12:21 PM
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I stumbled to this thread because I am flushing my brake lines. The comment about the starting point a the furthest caliper is not what the instructions in the JTIS says. The JTIS instructs (for Brembo brakes) :

7. Following the procedure above, bleed the brakes in the order shown:
1. Left-Hand Front,
2. Right-Hand Front,
3. Left-Hand Rear,
4. Left-Hand Rear.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 12:35 PM
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I always thought you started from the farthest wheel, also. Starting to suspect it makes no difference so long as you keep the fluid reservoir full.
 
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 12:50 PM
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Oldmots, looks like a great tool. Did the standard fitting fit the Jag reservoir or did it need an adapter?
 
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Old Jul 18, 2013 | 12:53 PM
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I made a comment on the JTIS procedure last year when I was flushing my system. I don't think anyone follows that procedure, nor does it make much sense.
I do agree that it is better to open the bleeder before compressing the piston to avoid forcing any sediment into the lines.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2013 | 07:52 AM
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Possibly if one started with the farthest wheel, that when the others were bleed, air might be introduced and require re-flushing all the way back. If air was introduced in the shorter runs it would be flushed through when the longest run was flushed. That does sound logical to me. On another note, why can we not use blue brake fluid in Florida? Is is a Republican issue?
 
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Old Jul 20, 2013 | 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Beav
Not to be argumentative but recommended practices by all brake manufacturers and OEMs are to begin bleeding sequence at the wheel position farthest from the master cylinder. The only exceptions I can recall are oddball vehicles like old Volvos with split-system calipers. But even then they were somewhat based on the farthest away practice. Personally, I've never had issues starting at any position, I'm just passing on information.
Count most modern Subarus and TVR 280is in the exceptions as the FSMs for both say to start closest. I agree though that it really shouldn't matter where you start.
 
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