With my luck it will fix the broken cruise control and the engine problem will still be there. While I am waiting I will recharge the battery so its not weak after I reinstall it.
I got to where I can install or remove that ECU in less than 3 minutes so that shouldn't be a problem. But if its 12F outside I won't be out there doing it.



Dave

 

My money is on the ECM

 

It only takes a few minutes, and it's plug and play after the repair. When they did mine they told me they routinely replace a number of components that are known to fail.

 

Unrepentant Parcel Smashers didn't deliver the ECU until 6:10pm by which time is was already dark and to *** numbing cold to install it out in the driveway. That and it was so gusty it would have ripped the hood off. So its getting down to 15F tonight and only up to 30 tomorrow I'll try and install it then. Of course the battery will likely be dead after sitting 2 weeks. I'll have to take the battery out to recharge it as I don't have enough extension cords to reach where the car is. So tomorrow will be fun and the suspense is killing me in the meantime. I really hope this fixes it.

Dave

 

Good luck Dave, we are all routing for you, well the ECU.


Wayne

 

Fingers crossed Dave. Best of luck.

 

You disconnected the battery before removing the ECU, right?

 

Yep. But the battery was already nearly dead from all the engine starting during troubleshooting. My landscaper friend just dropped off his 50ft extension and along with the one I had they reach so its now on the charger. The battery was so dead it couldn't unlatch the door locks so I had to use the key when I hooked it back up. So I will let it charge until it "warms" up this afternoon and then install the ECU. The battery is also disconnected again so I don't have to when I put the ECU back in later.


Dave

 

Its Alive! Its Alive!


I just installed the ECU and hooked the battery back up. It cranked about 10 times (no rattles/funny noises) and fired up. But best yet it fired on all 8!. The chain noise I was hearing went away. I think because it was only firing on 4 and much lower rpm idle the oil pressure was probably to low to fully pressurize the tensioners causing the noise. Now there is a slight "whirring" noise at idle but it went away after warm up. I checked codes after shutting it down and none except P1000 as it needs to relearn the trims etc.
And for an extra bonus!
About 3 months ago the cruise control stopped working so I replaced the 2 stop light microswitches but it didn't fix it. Nothing else looked bad in the CC setup and no errors ever showed for it.
Now the CC works again! Was the damn ECU all along.
I will still check the tensioners to make sure they put metal ones in during warranty at 57k miles.

So, if you have a LJA1410AK, one of the earliest ECU I highly recommend sending it to ASI even if its not broke yet because sooner or later it will be broke.
Or send it in if your CC mysteriously quit working and the switches didn't fix it.

Please mark this thread as solved!



Dave

 

Great news, sounds like you are now a very happy tree frog.

Go out and enjoy yourself once again.

 

WOW! How did you manage in the 25 degree heat wave, was Jon up there helping. LOL
Real happy for you and hope the tensioners are metal.
Stay warm.
Do you think the battery is suspect or just cold weather?
Wayne

 

My fingers were getting mighty numb putting the ECU covers screws back in etc.
When the problem started I was driving at 35 and the car was all warmed up etc and the problem was dead solid and not intermittent at all. And the CC has been out for 3 months.
It was definitely a ECU failure. ASI said the ones with the -AK suffix had a factory defect and they all fail eventually. In fact it was probably a fluke this one lasted as long as it did before failure.
I'm leaving the battery on the charger the rest of the day to make up for it sitting 2 weeks. I had done a lot of engine cranking during the troubleshooting without letting the engine run to charge it back up as I was afraid to let it run. I had it tested at AutoZone just 3 or 4 weeks ago and they said it was fine.


Dave

 

The bad thing is that if you get those same codes there is no 5 minute method of knowing whether its the ECU or an actual engine problem. If swapping coils and ignition modules don't change the codes its worth paying the minimum $55.00 checkout fee at ASI to rule it in or out before digging into the engine. Especially if its one of the early ECU's.


Dave

 

My ECU is a AH, even older. ASI repaired it over a year ago.

 

Glad to hear you're back in business. It's been a long fight.

 

Kudos to o you! On the road again!

 

Thanks everyone for all the help and support!


Dave

 

good to see things worked out - well done!

 

Congrats, Dave!

ASI repaired mine over 4 years ago...still running great, too, and no further problems!

-John

 

Hi.


Congratulations from Norway.
Impressive how you never give up. I know what it is like repairing out in the cold. Finally I got myself a garage last summer.
Now for the last two letters in your ECM and ASI's comments. Looked at mine and it says LJA 1410 CA. Wonder if I will get same problems.
Car is -97, US spec. VIN xxxx011729.