Looking for a 98 XK8 engine.. used would be great..

Just curious what a 98 XK8 convertible would sell for will have 187k miles... Just curious have one with a shot motor and wanting to see if it's worth it.

Email me if any questions wntsom4@yahoo.com

 

See if this will help http://www.enginebuildermag.com/

 

it has to be pretty cheap I'd thing to buy. Not only motor stuff that is worn, but the suspension, how many miles on trans? With the top line car market down, it is a buyers market. You may be able to find one with decent miles/price. JUST make sure the timing chain Tensioners, etc have been addressed if it is 97-98 model.

 

I bought a 97 with 65k, for 10k a year and a half ago. Timing chain tensioner went out at 70k or so. It was a 3500 buck fix (I had other things done while it was apart).

 

Anyone know when the engine change was done to the XK8 that would resolve the sleeve and tensioner problems?? I'm thinking of instead putting the same year motor in my car, to look for a newer version that would have the updated sleeves and tensioner.

Correct me if I'm wrong but I'd assume the engines are the same

 

Couple thoughts to share with you:

The '98 engine was designated an AJ26. '99 through '02 was an AJ27. While they can be made to swap, unless you are doing all the work yourself, it is not economically practical.

The steel sleeve engines began in August '00 with engine serial number 0008181043 which equates to a manufacture date of the 18th of August, 2000 at 10:43am. The metal tensioners were introduced into engine production on August 13, 2001 with a serial number of 010813xxxx. Vehicle VINs and manufacture dates don't count, only the engine serial number will tell the status.

Best solution is to find an used direct replacement of your engine or buy a remanufactured unit of the same configuration.

 

Thanks for the information, very much helpful

 

I've got a couple questions on this one. What is the difference between the two engines? Apart from metal tensioners etc? If you swap over all of the parts from the old engine, like sensors, throttlebody and so on, won't that work?

Cheers, Jarle

 

Does anyone know if the engine setup is the same as far as the sensors and hookups for the 01 engines? Extending wires would not be an issue but if the mounts and sensors are not the same it might be more than what we want to get into.

 

They are different.

 

They are different all over.

The AJ26 had a single cam position sensor with a single node, the AJ27 had sensors on both intake cams and 4 node wheels.

The 26/27 had different flex plates and are not interchangeable.

The 26 had completely different VVT units and controls.

There are many more items but you get the idea. That is why I say that the conversion is not economically feasible.

There is a list around if you really want to do this.

 

Just beeing curious Test! This does mean that if anyone wants to do this, perhaps swapping the entire loom and ECU's is the right thing to do? Agree, sounds like a major hassle for little gain.

Cheers, Jarle

 

Bottom line is that the ECM must see each and every sensor signal within the expected parameters or it will not start. One member posted about a swap that he was paying for that wouldn't start. Problem was that the mechanic had not swapped the flex plate and it was never going to run. Out came the engine.

 

Hello, I am new to the forum as I just recently purchased a 99Xk8 conv the car is in fantastic shape with 69000 and one owner. I was unaware of the Nikasil issue until I started reading the forum, I was aware with the issue with both Porch and BMW as I have owned a few. I would have more than likely bought a newer Jag or another car had I been more informed. The dealer tried to steer me to another car and told me that of all the cars I was looking at the Jag had the potential to have more issues, ( he should of just said Nikasil). This brings me to my question IF or WHEN I have to replace or rebuild the engine what will or what will not work i.e. a newer non Niksail 4.0 or 4.2? I saw a 4.0 out of a 2002 S type from a auto recycler for 2700 with low miles. I searched the forum and this is the closest I came to answering my question. Does some one have a list of what will and what wont work for the nikasil year cars and what components you need to change and what components you need to get from the host vehicle. I would like to be informed prior to a problem this time. Any info would be helpful thanks.

 

If the engine does not have Nikasil issues right now, then it probably won't ever have them unless you put some really bad gas in the tank time after time. Nikasil problems were caused by sulfur in the fuel, and today's fuels are all low sulfur. In other words, if the engine is running fine right now, don't worry about Nikasil. I'd have no problem buying a car with a Nikasil engine. The timing chain tensioners are the bigger problem, and you should address them ASAP.

 

wntsom4:

Your forum signature doesn't say what part of the country you're in.

If your body and running gear are in good condition, re-engining your car is not too terribly expensive. I would suggest you sign into car-part.com and look for an engine with the lowest possible mileage. I would shy away from any engine <100K, however.

While I have not looked on the website recently, such an engine should cost you something like $2500. I would suggest an independent shop do the conversion. Other issues to check for are metal camshaft tensioners? metal thermostat housing w/thermostat? metal waterpump impeller? You would also want to replace the serpentine belt and possibly the belt tensioner--and radiator hoses.

Good Luck!

 

Ward,
Let me first begin my response to by saying Nikasil is not doom and gloom. It is not the end of the world and it does not mean that you were taken. Nikasil is a great concept / engine that has gotten a bad reputation due to the lack of understanding Nikasil and the problems associated. The major problem with nikasil is that it is a slick product that allows the loss of compression due to cylinder washing. In the past the sulfur in the fuel was the demise of Nikasil. The sulfur in the fuel and the condensation on a cold startup would create sulfuric acid that would gradually destroy the Nikasil lining in the cylinder walls. You should read my research on the topic of Nikasil on my page to better understand the situation.

This was when I could find nothing on Nikasil Nikasil

My research on Nikasil Nikasil

My recommendation would be to change the oil as scheduled, use a fuel additive (I use BG 44K but use as directed) to ensure clean and properly functioning fuel injectors for proper fuel presentation to the cylinders and avoid short trips where the engine doe not warm up to a normal operation temperature. Now if I still had my Nikasil block I would add “Restore” to the oil. It is a good product that will help with the cylinder washing and compression. I hope this helps!