I am getting an interesting result as I test the ABS harness. I pulled off the two front ones and I am using a multi-meter to make sure the connection is good. The first wire tested fine, I got 9V on the positive and neg wire. On the second wire I got 9V on the pos and neg, but I also get 7V on the wire that is not supposed to be in the circuit. I got lucky finding that bleed, I connected the wrong side and got the 7V and then figured it out.

I am not sure how this could happen, maybe I am getting some bare wires touching, but then I would expect the full 9V. I almost never do electrical testing so maybe this is normal.

 

Scott, do you mean the speed sensor (connector FL1 left, RL1 right)? If so the diagram shows it as a 2 conductor connection. Bet I'm looking at the wrong connector. Can you please describe which one you refer too? Where does it plug in?

John

 

That's a very odd way to test for continuity - does your meter not have a continuity/resistance setting?

 

I am looking up now how to test for continuity, never knew about that. I will let you know the results.

 

I am dealing with what is a very similar intermittent issue. According to the workshop manual on my 2000 XK8 the resistance on this cable should be no more than 5 ohms. I have a replacement cable and it test at 1.5 ohms. If there is no resistance (continuity) then then there is a break, above 5 ohms is out of range.

 

I am getting 3 ohms on +/- on both front harnesses. So I guess these wires are fine. Assuming that is the definitive test, if it is not definitive, can someone let me know. For future readers of this thread, you do not even need to take the cables out to run this test, just unclasp them.

 

There is a lot of advice on how to deal with this problem. IMO the easiest is to get the proper tools and information. What really helps is having a code reader that can read the ABS diagnostic error codes. This really points you in the right direction. The next most helpful tool is to get the factory workshop manual for your car. I got mine of Ebay for 15 bucks and it is invaluable. For example a ABS code of C1155, left front sensor takes you through all the steps to resolve the problem, rather than guessing what is wrong. You all ready have the multi meter and a good code reader and the workshop manual will make your life a lot easier.

 

So, you get 3 Ohms on each wire, pin to pin? What about across wires? You mentioned there was a voltage across the wires with the battery setup. You need "infinity" Ohms across wires, i.e. they are completely isolated from each other.

The other complicating factor is that this wire moves up and down with the suspension and you can easily have intermittent, temperature dependent breaks. If you are pretty sure you have identified the problem wire, you might have to somehow repair/replace it. To my knowledge not all of these are still available from Jaguar, but Rockauto lists these individual connectors (and a long pigtail) at a very reasonable price. Joining these wires however is left as an exercise.

Best of luck, keep us posted.

 

Thanks everyone for the discussion. I was getting no cross wire contamination and I kept pulling and pushing to try and see if there was a wire issue. I will move on to other possibilities. My code reader and app (torque pro) do not pick anything up, may have to take it to the jag dealer for a read.

 

Check how much they would charge. There are some JLR-aware code readers for less than $200 (Foxwell, icarsoft, etc.).

 

The Autel AL619 will read Jaguar codes and ABS codes. You can get them for less than $100.