Anyone know of a video or pictures on removing an ABS module from a 2001 XK8. I saw some pictures of the ABS removal, but the person removed the four brake lines. I recall that this procedure could be done leaving the brake lines hooked up. I prefer not bleeding the brakes. Thanks

 

you won't need to bleed the brakes. only a few drops of fluid are lost with the lines disconnected.

 

basically its a bend the lines gently procedure the lines will give a little .. use a long 3/8 extension to help maneuver the lines around also remove the windshield washer fluid filler first it turns then pulls out to remove. can also order a module from module repair pros call them and the will ship a module that's been repaired and then you ship yours back that way your done with everything immediately or ship yours to them for repair and when it returns re install cost difference is 150...250 if you try and fix it yourself and crack the case open.... they wont repair yours if its been opened.

 

You need to BEND the lines but not KINK them!!!!!!!

I have never removed the lines from the valve/motor assy. for module replacement.
But everyone has their own way of doing things.

bob gauff

 

Hi,
I repaired my ABS module a few months back, I was getting ABS and TRAC warning messages so decided to have a go. The problem is that the two main electrical solder joints fracture over time and cause intermittent warnings.

There is a multi plug connected to the ABS module, this can be removed by pulling up a locking clip on the plug, which can then be separated from the module. I had to undo some of the brake pipes in order to get some wiggle room so that I could reach the two lower bolts holding the module in place.

Once the module is free I used a dremel type tool with a small cutting wheel and cut all around the joint and was then able to take the lid off, be careful doing this and take your time. With the lid off the two big solder joints can be seen, mine were fractured, I re-soldered them and refitted the lid, make sure no water can get into the module after the lid is refitted.

The difficult part is getting the module free and then refitting it. I did not need to bleed the brakes afterwards and have had no further warnings.
It's not a job I would want to do twice in a week but it can be done.

There are several video's on YouTube, use "Jaguar XJ 8 ABS module repair".

 

Pulled the module off today`. Did it without removing the brake lines, however did remove the spout for the windshield washer fluid. If you loosen the 11 and 13 mm nuts on the lines it makes it easy to bend and move them. Do not be afraid of doing this. It took me 15 minutes to get the module out.

 

I got mine out without undoing the lines but I did have to creatively bend the lines but not by much. I also used a dremel to cut a hole over the board where the socket for the plug is on the other side.
My board was covered with a glossy plastic coating of some kind so that had to be removed to resolder the 2 connections on the board side.
I used Black Ultra silicon to reattach the piece I cut out. Never got the ABS error again.


Dave

 

I just completed this job and I chose to disconnect the brake lines instead of bending them. I figure that bleeding/flushing the brake system after 17 years isn't a bad thing and if I damage a brake line by bending it, I've not done myself any favors. Bleeding the brakes doesn't take long but replacing a damaged brake line, well, you get the idea. I'm doing a 100,000 mile inspection so the wheels were coming off anyway. Lacking an E5 socket, I used a 4mm and it worked fine on the module mount bolts. The torque on the bolts is light so they came right out. When reinstalling the washer bottle neck, remove a panel in the left front wheel well for easy access to hold the bottle.
Finally, I read one comment about not bleeding the brakes after disconnecting brake lines. Do not follow this advice. Bleed the brakes.

 

This link will show you how I did my 99 XK8

Link. http://www.jagrepair.com/JaguarABSUnitRemoval.htm

Gus
www.jagrepair.com

 

This is very helpful. Your pictures are excellent. I appreciate your time as I'm about to take this on myself. I had watched the youtube video of the guy working on the xj8 and he didn't have the idea to remove the 4 bolts and scoot the whole unit forward to make room to get the module out. Good one! I was thinking of ordering the E5 torx bit because I don't want to strip those heads. Did you have any concerns having used the 5/32 socket?

 

None at all

 

Hello Gus,
With regard to G. Emerson' "Testing and check list" on your web site, what are the specifics for doing this check? Should I leave the battery hooked up or maybe have the ignition on? Do the leads go on the pins or are they inserted into the female side of the plug. Perhaps it doesn't matter which I use?
Also, are you aware of any changes from 1999 to 2001 (my jag).

Thanks!

 

Any time you pull and install a plug on your Jag you should remove the lead from the battery. In order to make the tests for your sensors you need to remove the ABS plug. As for the voltage checks you you will need to have the power on. When you pull the plug it would be the female side of the plug. As for any changes between a 1999 and 2001 I know of none but I will attach onelines for both years. I would pay close attention to the lead color codes between the two.

Link 1999 http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../jagxk1999.pdf

Link 2001 http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto.../jagxk2001.pdf

I hope this helps

 

It does help and thanks. Forgive me if I'm a bit thick, but you said "Any time you pull and install a plug on your Jag you should remove the lead from the battery", then "As for the voltage checks you you will need to have the power on". So, for this procedure leave the battery lead on, yes?

 

yes