Hello, I have a 2000 XKR and the ABS / Traction control warning lights are on. I had the codes read and the computer says it is the passenger side speed sensor. I have replaced the sensor and the light is still on. I found a thread here about the cables so I measured the ohms and on the cables going under the hood by the wheel well to the sensor it measures at .1 . The wires and underside of the car are in very good shape. This car has never seen snow. I wasn't sure if i measured the cables right so I measured the drivers side one and the ohms read the same so now I am wondering what the next step is, I'm assuming I did it right?. I don't want to get too deep in taking apart the ABS module if it can be avoided. Has anyone had this problem and have any suggestions for the next steps? Thanks from Florida! -Rob

 

Swap the right/left link harnesses and see if the fault follows the harnesses?(or replace both and go on with life)

They are subjected to much movement.

 

That was my solution also. Alter 20 years the cable just wore out. Did not even try swapping left to right, cut right to the chase.

 

Rob,

One common problem is an intermittent connection. The cables leading to the sensors, as initially installed, sometimes get stressed when the steering is turned near its limits left or right. There is a fix for that. Do you get the error message when you first start the car? (The yellow brake icon on the dash my be lit from a prior fault. Is there a text warning message on startup?)

 

Can we assume that you have driven the car in excess of 12. 5 mph which in many cases, resets the ABS light.

 

I have driven the car at normal speeds 40 -50mph. I ordered a new cable thinking that would solve it and it didn't. I am still getting the ABS light on and the text message read "trac not available" and "ASC not available" it blinks between the two. The lights have been lit constantly for the past couple weeks. They do go out and then come back, I have not found a pattern to it yet.

I ordered a code reader form amazon which should arrive tomorrow so then I will have the specific codes. I'm getting closer but sure would like to fix this!

 

I went down the same road. Just guessing and throwing parts at the problem gets old fast. Getting a code reader is a must, be aware some do not read ABS codes or specific Jaguar codes.. Another good tool is to get a copy of the workshop manual. I found mine as a CD on eBay at low cost. If you have the codes then the manual can walk you through the problem step by step. Good luck.

 

I haven't picked up the workshop manual yet but did get a code reader. I got three codes.
P0175 Something about the engine running too rich, maybe an oxygen sensor. It is intermittent.
P0442 Small leak. I replaced the gas cap and this made the check engine light go away.
then P1111 PD which I don't think means anything much?

Am i interpreting this right? There doesn't seem to be anything about the ABS/ traction. Should there be something in the codes about this???

 

You probably have an instrument that only reads generic engine codes. P1111 means the emission control system is functioning correctly.

 

Yes the codes you are getting refer to fuel system and emission system. They are stardard OBD codes that most code readers can read, they start with the letter P. ABS error codes start with the letter C, for your left front ABS fault you should be seeing a code like C1155. The P1111 code is a Jaguar code are referres to system status. If your ABS light is on you should be reading a "C" ABS code. It seems like you code reader is not seeing them.

 

I have just recently solved my ABS by issue by changing one of the front cables.

Every timed I measured the resistances and voltages at the module plug I got a constant readings, so I tried changing the ABS module assuming that the sensors were all OK but the fault remained. Then I purchased an old XP laptop to run the legacy software which gave a front sensor fail but changing the sensor did not fix it. All this went on for weeks, so In the end I jacked the car up then wiggled the cable to the ABS sensor whilst measuring the resistance and sure enough the connection became intermittent and then the cable snapped at the connector!!

 

Amazon is great! I now have a different code reader that is doing its job great. It cost a little more but nothing is perfect. The codes that are coming up are:
C1155 Front left wheel speed sensor input circuit failure
C1145 Front right wheel speed sensor input circuit failure
C1095 Pump Motor circuit failure

I have installed a new front right speed sensor and cable so I feel pretty good that the problem is somewhere else. It also seems a little fishy that both of them would be faulty at the same time.

I have not touched the ABS module yet but I am thinking that could be where the problem is. Is there a way to tell if it is something that can be repaired at home or is my best option to get a new one? Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!

 

Even with a ABS light the brakes will work fine so you can drive the car. The workshop manual can walk you through the steps to pinpoint what the specific problem is. If indeed the module or pump is gone there are places that rebuild them for a reasonable cost.

 

Thanks David the workshop manual is something on my list of things to get now.

I wanted to update this post because I have found the problem. I'm going to quickly described how in the hopes that it helps the next person with the same issues. I watched this video about desoldering the module. Now the part where he says its usually where the connector is where the two joints go bad got me thinking. I wondered if i wiggled the area where the second little connector goes into the module if it would make the lights go out, it did. This leads me to think that either the connector was working its way loose or that the joints inside need to be resoldered. I'm going to drive it like it is now and see how long the lights stay out. Either way a good wiggle to the connector at the module can help. I wish I had done this sooner but isn't that always the way. I learned a lot so far so that counts for something. Thanks again for all the help!

 

I'm dealing with this issue on mine at the moment. Thanks for putting that video link up!

 

Once you said that you had multiple faults that occurred at the same time, the problem usually isn't those faults, but the one component giving those faults. I learned that from a few decades of working on Boeing airplanes. I removed and soldered my ABS module years ago and it's still going strong.

 

I disagree in principle with drilling holes in my Jaguar if it can be avoided, and so I prefer the method of opening the module, repairing it, then closing it up again. Once the module is in your hands, the little extra work is well worth it, as you can see what you are doing and therefore have a much better chance of a higher quality repair. Also, the finished product looks better, with no holes to plug.

 

Did you have to disconnect your brake lines from the big unit, or did you find a way to wiggle the module out from under them without disconnecting the lines?

kk