Has anyone taken apart the ABS connector to the ABS module? Looks like my problem is in there.

- Intermittently getting all the ABS error codes indicating a bad module

- I've had the module to BBA Remanufacture twice and they can find no problem.

- I popped the top of the module, voided the BBA warranty, and touched an iron to the two infamous solder points. Everything looked good at the time but I just wanted to be sure.

- Ohmed out all the wiring to the sensors, even while front tires turned lock to lock. All check out.

- In checking the module I found that pushing or jiggling the connector will set the error codes.

I cut the wire wrap, the white one in the picture is my replacement, and took the cover off the connector but stopped there. I didn't want to bust anything as the plastic is getting brittle. Pix show connector after I put back the cover.

Has anyone taken this apart further to get to the individual connectors? I'm too friggin' close to fixing this pia to stop now!!!

Thanks for any help

Al

 

Try cleaning the contacts with TV Tuner cleaner from Radio Shack and see if that solves the error code problem when you wiggle the connector. If it does, just give it a cleaning with the spray every 6 months or so to keep the gremlin at bay.

 

Two things.............

Are you sure none of the module pins are laid over and not properly engaging the connector terminals??

During some of your testing/probing, any chance you used something that may have been a little too big, and possibly have sprung some of the terminals in the connector?? I've seen that many, many times causing the problems you describe when jiggling the connection.

What codes in particular are showing up?

Cheers,

 

WhiteXKR, I'll give the Radio Shack cleaner a shot. I had some MAF cleaner and tried that but had no real electronics cleaner.

xjrguy, The only thing I've poked into the connector is an unbent paper clip connected to my multimeter. I get the abs light, traction control message, and sometimes the brake light with the speedo going out. Most often the MIL sets with abs module codes. Checked the pins and none are bent.

I'll let you know if a good cleaning works but I suspect there may be a physical/wiring problem.

Thanks for the suggestions,

 

Well, just for grins, next time jiggle around with the fuse/relay box right next door instead of the ABS module connector. I've known them to cause problems similar to what you describe, particularly the messages.

Good luck!

 

Expanding on xjrguy's comment, you can also use the contact cleaner in the fusebox, and on the four connectors below the fusebox. (Lift the rectangular pull in front of the fusebox and slide the fusebox forward to release it).

If you still have the problem, it is also possible you still have a hairline fracture on the ABS controller circuit board, or in a solder joint. These can sometime be diffiicult to detect without siginificant magnification. If all you did was reheat the connector solder joints, try reheating them again, this time while adding a little rosin-core solder.

 

I have a lot of information on my page see if this helps
Jaguar ABS Repair

 

Gus, So far it's been your page that's been helping me through this. Thanks for all the leg work you've done!

 

WhiteXKR, xjrguy.....Holy crap what a mess! Never saw how the connectors on the fuse block worked. Lots of dirt under there, will disconnect battery and pull/clean out that area. Maybe.......

 

Good Luck!

 

When was the battery checked or replaced??

 

For once I'm ahead of you Gus.. Had a new battery replaced about three weeks ago.

Cheers

 

Was the battery sized properly?

 

You can also try "tweek" a liquid contact enhancer beloved by high end audio enthusiasts.

The connector appears to be a standard type. The electrical diagrams will call out the manufacturer on the page before the diagram in which it appears. The pins can be removed using a pin extraction tool and reinserted into a new shell. You might also choose to remove, give a tiny squeeze to the female end .. .. and reinsert into the old shell.

Hardwiring, or new pins are also possibilities.

 

I find many times that wires will fracture near connectors. The best way I've found to check for broken wires is to grasp each wire, individually, about 2-3 inches back from the connector. Pull slowly, with significant pressure and watch for insulation stretching above the broken strands.

 

I'll give a good look as I clean out the fuse block connectors. I would like to take the connector apart but am afraid of snapping something as its pretty brittle. Seems to be a connector in a connector. Looking for some other poor soul who's cracked this nut before.

 

Gus, Can't remember the CCA for the battery right off, but I remember that it matched what was in the car and the manufacture requirements when I bought it. Old battery was five years old and was within specs but on the low side when load tested. Figured I would replace and take it out of the equation.

 

Are all your tires and rims the same size?

 

Check and Affirmative on the tires.