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Looks like I'll be taking the steering wheel apart this week. I took it out for a drive and set the cruise control and nothing happened. Since when I tested the new switch it seemed to do what it was supposed to do when the brake pedal was in the depressed and released position my understanding is that it must be the switch on the steering wheel. If anyone has any other ideas let me know.
On my 97, the problem was the ground wire where it made a sharp turn before connecting with the sound system ground wire. It took me a couple of years to find that.
On my 97, the problem was the ground wire where it made a sharp turn before connecting with the sound system ground wire. It took me a couple of years to find that.
Hi RJ,
Are you talking about inside the center console behind the radio and a/c controls? What was the ground wire from?
Simple things...
Have you tried with another cruise control switch? There is some more trickery inside it.. not only a "switch/contact"
The ABS unit are manageing quite a few things.. keeping track of wheelspeeds for various systems.. Have you inspected/cleaned the plug?
When did the cruise control function the last time? Anything in particular that was done before it started to fail?
Do those wires run under or on top of the steering column? I'm wondering if they run under the column I might be able to get to them by taking that lower cover off and not having to remove the air bag unit.
Simple things...
Have you tried with another cruise control switch? There is some more trickery inside it.. not only a "switch/contact"
The ABS unit are manageing quite a few things.. keeping track of wheelspeeds for various systems.. Have you inspected/cleaned the plug?
When did the cruise control function the last time? Anything in particular that was done before it started to fail?
/E
Hey E,
Do you mean the button below the J Gate or the button on the steering column?
Yes, I've cleaned all the ABS connections. I was having intermittent OBD2 P1797 & 1799 codes regarding the ABS communication with the ECM. I pulled all the plugs and cleaned both sides. So I'm pretty sure that isn't the issue.
I get that certain cars were more expensive when new and thus were targeted at buyers who were above the blue collar level. But shouldn't that mean that those cars were built to last? Or were the manufacturers of the opinion that the buyers would only use the car for a couple years and then it was someone else's problem for which the manufacturer had no responsibility……”
“……A perfect example is on my Jag, with it's new battery, sometimes when I start it up in the morning after it sits for a few days, I get the "Gearbox Fault" in the dash message window. .
Jaguar is not alone, no car manufacturer makes cars to last. If they all lasted 20 years the manufacturers would go out of business. All car (and motorcycles) are made to be as trouble free as possible until the warranty expires. After that happens, it’s time for a new vehicle. That’s a simple economic fact.
Secondly, regarding your battery; you will get more enjoyment from the car if you keep it on a battery tender whenever the car is not being used overnight or longer. That is a result of the excess complexity you don’t care for. The wiring system is 15 years past its prime. The circuits and connections do not work as designed anymore. There are voltage and current drops everywhere.
you can either bang your head against a brick wall trying to find every small fault, or you can just keep your battery at 101% by using a tender. The charging system will not do the job alone.
I had the same electrical gremlins that you have, plus a dozen more. They all vanished when I started using the tender. CTEK, NOCO Genesis, or Delran are the ones more forum members use.
My issues with everything went away when i finally cleaned out the plug to the gearbox, on the 6 speed gearbox, the gearbox control module are buillt in so oil on that plug messed up the CAN bus... no communication between engine and gearbox.. could not clear engine or gearboxrelated OEBD codes.. maybe something similar is haunting your car..
.. unless its that PIA to reach brakeswitch assy..
I meant he switch next to the J-Gate. No, I haven't changed that switch.
As of now, is there any faultcodes present? No fault codes
My issues with everything went away when i finally cleaned out the plug to the gearbox, on the 6 speed gearbox, the gearbox control module are buillt in so oil on that plug messed up the CAN bus... no communication between engine and gearbox.. could not clear engine or gearboxrelated OEBD codes.. maybe something similar is haunting your car..
.. unless its that PIA to reach brakeswitch assy..
I changed the brake switch a week ago and still no cruise control.
I'm sorry for being so slow on this one but are those wires accessible if I take off the panel under the steering wheel that is held on by the single phillips screw? I'll just take it off tomorrow and see if I can find the wires coming from the switches and see if there's a broken ground wire.
As for the buttons on the stalk assembly, all connections has to go through the so called "clockspring", a very thin flat cable winded up inside a cassete. I had mine open to have a looksie and from what i could learn the ods for that thing to fail is quite low. There is however a few youtubeclips on dudes repairing them.. but i wouldnt.. dont want to be slapped on the face by the airbag for no reason.
Anyway, that clockspringcasette is installed on the stalk assy. (see pictures) its a matter to find the correct plug to check what the contacts on the steeringwheel does.
Before any job involving removing the airbag, disconnect the battery first and wait 10-15 minutes before messing with it..
By the way, are your car equipped with the so called adaptive cruise control? Then there are a few more things involved in the troubleshooting..
Before I start taking the steering wheel air bag and associated part apart I figured just for jollies I checked the fuse for the cruise control in the engine compartment starboard fuse box. Turns out someone put a 5 amp fuse in where it should be a 10 amp fuse. However, the fuse wasn't blown so I'm thinking that isn't the problem. I replaced it with a 10 amp fuse just in case the cruise control comes on when I fiddle with the steering wheel wires later today or tomorrow. For now I'm just going to enjoy driving around with my new, bright LEDs in the dash and console. Anyone out there know if the radio faceplate (It's the upgraded Alpine system) comes off in some simple way? I have plenty of LEDs left so I thought if I could get that off I could solder a few into where the incandescent ones on the radio are.
The first thing to try is the easiest thing. Make sure red light comes on when speed control switch is press on. While driving, put the tip of your foot under the brake pedal and pull it towards you. While doing this, press the "set" button on steering column and see if speed control works while holding the pedal towards you. If it works, you will probably not notice much free play when pedal is pulled up, but it only takes a minute amount to not work. If it works while pulling forward, it may be something simple like a stretched pedal return spring if it has one. At least you will know why it is not working.
The light on the button comes on when I press the button. I'll try the lifting of the brake pedal next time I'm in the car. I have replaced the switch a couple weeks ago but that made no difference. I didn't notice if the spring was loose.
I finally got time to take the car out on the freeway and tried lifting the brake pedal with my foot and trying the cruise control. Still nothing. Looks like I'm going to be removing the air bag and looking at the steering wheel controls and the associated wiring. Unless anyone out there has any other ideas.
