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I've moved your question from General Tech Help to XK8/XKR forum. Members here with the same model will be able to help.
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Welcome to the forum. You really need to get an OBDII code reader to pull the trouble codes. There are some that work on your phone, and are cheap. Whenever the check engine light is on you have codes. What is an "s" light ? Is that the sport mode button light ?
Welcome to the forum. You really need to get an OBDII code reader to pull the trouble codes. There are some that work on your phone, and are cheap. Whenever the check engine light is on you have codes. What is an "s" light ? Is that the sport mode button light ?
What Johnken said. There are two buttons just to the rear of your gear shifter on the center console. If you press them down, their red lights will light up to tell you they're engaged. Press them again and they will turn off. I believe I did read about one recently where the button broke and would not spring back up, but you didn't say if that was happening.
I'm not quite clear on what exactly the problem is, but if the S and ASC are displaying where your odometer is, have you had the center console or gear shift fascia out recently? If you pull the center console out, on the bottom side of the buttons there are two electrical connectors side by side. I'm wondering if you or someone else forgot to replug them.
You definitely need to read the codes. They can point you in the right direction. Auto parts store have readers available for free. Otherwise, get a cheap ELM327 adapter (check eBay), and use your phone as display. You might need more advanced software later, but that would be a start.
It is all about the details, but are you positive the replacement ABS module is compatible? Typically, folks have the original module rebuilt. These modules have either leaky capacitors, or bad soldering around the power posts.
Replacement modules might have to be coded into the main ECM, if it happens to be newer than what the ECM accepts. There should be a sticker on the module, and the last digits have to be matched with the corresponding numbers on a sticker in the trunk (VCATS). If the number on the sticker is lower, coding is necessary (a software procedure with the factory tools). One would assume that on a '97, only the lowest of numbers would be accepted. In other words, your ABS module, assuming it is functional, might be too new, and your ECM is programmed not to accept it. A software update is required to make it acceptable.
Frankly, it is looking like you are experiencing some form of CAN network error, but only the codes will tell you what is going on.
Ron (called you Jimmy up there by accident) could you say more about the S? Just trying to help, but it can't get a handle on what you see.
The S button has 2 lights. Red indicates on off. Push it in red goes off. White background light illuminates the S. It is part of the dashboard illumination controlled by the dimmer.headlights on, S lights up.
When the MIL (check engine) is on, the only logical way to troubleshoot is to start by having the DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) read.
Without that it's just guesswork and throwing parts at a Jaguar soon gets very expensive.
For basic powertrain faults you don't need anything sophisticated (costly) for code reading. Most cheap code readers will handle Pxxxx codes.
The only thing to avoid is using generic lookups to interpret the codes. Post the actual codes for help on the correct Jaguar descriptions and possible causes for them.
Ron (called you Jimmy up there by accident) could you say more about the S? Just trying to help, but it can't get a handle on what you see.
Originally Posted by Johnken
The S button has 2 lights. Red indicates on off. Push it in red goes off. White background light illuminates the S. It is part of the dashboard illumination controlled by the dimmer.headlights on, S lights up.
What are you asking about?
The Red light stays on Pressing it or releasing it does not change anything
One thing to try is to remove the electronics connection plug on the transmission and clean the contacts and reinstall. This will set the lights if it has crud in it. This is an easy task and should be done now and then anyway.
Red light stays on. It is easy enough to remove and disassemble this switch. Just do it over a basin. There is a spring and one or 2 small plastic pieces inside it.
Frankly I suppose you should test for continuity before disassembly. But like I said it is easy.
One thing to try is to remove the electronics connection plug on the transmission and clean the contacts and reinstall. This will set the lights if it has crud in it. This is an easy task and should be done now and then anyway.
Red light stays on. It is easy enough to remove and disassemble this switch. Just do it over a basin. There is a spring and one or 2 small plastic pieces inside it.
Frankly I suppose you should test for continuity before disassembly. But like I said it is easy.
E=oldmots;1621592]One thing to try is to remove the electronics connection plug on the transmission and clean the contacts and reinstall. This will set the lights if it has crud in it. This is an easy task and should be done now and then anyway.[/QUOTE]
Imf2, well, as you push it in a plastic wiper pushes on 2 metal contacts spreading them apart to make connection to red light and to enable sport. The red light and sport activation are on separate internal circuits. As I recall there are 3 pairs of connections to this switch not sure you'll get far fast checking continuity in situ. I opened the switch to replace are light bulb. Not too hard to do.
Are you sure sport is on button in red light on? Ez way to tell. Cruise at 35mph, move pedal to wide open throttle at medium even pace (not stomping on it). S on has much more aggressive downshift acceleration than s off.
Btw, no the pin out is different for cruise control so not interchangeable.
Not sure if you answered to me above or not. In case you want to pursue switch evaluation do you want a hand re: how to remove it?
Bought 4 modules, one nos, and at last understand
what to look for.
1. Some prev owner replaced the pump with a wrong version (xj pump) With that pump came the wrong module. That setup did not work ...
2. because noone checked the numbers on the pump the module was replaced a few times with, again, the matching module to the pump. So problems persisted
3. the pump itself doesnt care for the module so leave it alone You can have 5 pipes (non traction control) or 6 (with traction control) , translated to the module (and
i never found this) ETCS = exclude traction control system so no traction, TCS is Traction control (6 pipes)
4. Before 2001 the module cannot be learned in the ECU so you will need the excact one. An xj will not work in a xk8 so i learned.
5. So the important numbrrs are the series under the factory nummbet (eg lja2210bh xjs and xks have these but they are not interchangable).
You need to look for the correct code
eg : 10.0946-1004.3 3x9890
The nos module came with a overview:
Overview from factory
So at last it was clear.
Last edited by imf2; 04-12-2017 at 07:50 AM.
Reason: not ready
Imf, congratulations. Hey, when you say pump, what were you referring to?
Well the abs pump. They are two seperate things The electronic module/controler (in my case LJA2210BH) and the hydraulic pump unit (in my case mja5920BE)
02-14-2017, 08:02 AM
ASC and S lights on And check engine
