Guys, I could sure use some help/suggestions on this one.

Background: Last week tested battery, all OK. Voltageregulator was off, so I replaced the alternator.
This afternoon I replaced the upper radiator hose. Onceinstalled, I did start the car and used a lawn hose to wash the spilled coolantoff. I did notice something started to hum a bit once wet, but took her for adrive, no issues.
All has worked just fine until tonight.

Issue: Tonight I was driving 5 or 6 mph around a circle on aquiet street, not too fast but fast enough I could feel a bit of centrifugalforce. I noticed a Red Warning message come up, but by the time I straightenedout the steering wheel it was gone. So Ifigured I'd perform the same move - same circle counter clockwise.

Red Warning: "Battery not charging." I could see the volt meter was down quite abit. Slowed and straightened out. Voltmeter showed 13, lights brightened. Idecided to head home, close by.

On the way things got worse, Battery not charging came onagain (voltage down), then the dash/message center acted like low voltage: dashlit up, got several messages likeTrac Disabled, several warnings. Lights were dimmed.

Got her home. Turned off, looked under hood. Belt is new and tight. Started up, she could hardly crank. Got ignition. Headlights were not on (car'schoice not mine). Pulled in garage, turned off and hooked up a charger underhood.

Charger acted like battery was dead, 25 amps continuous. I went to trunk and opened access tobattery. No visible shorts, connectionstight, no visible corrosion.

Decided to hook charger directly to the battery. While charger was connected under hood, Idisconnected Negative lead. Trunk lightsbrightened appreciably. Looked atcharger, still connected to the under hood terminals. Now only drawing around 3 or 4 amps, alllights bright.

Disconnected positive terminal. Connected charger tobattery: 25 amps continuous.

This leaves me scratching my head. Sure sounds like a dead as a door nailbattery, but some things don't line up:

1) Why would slow turns start this (battery fluid low, turnspushed off plates)?

2) I have never heard of a battery failing with suchimmediacy have you?

The more I think about it the more I think I just have abattery that decided to die catastrophically and instantly.

Thinking out loud:
Alternator can not charge battery because it cannot take acharge = Display will show Battery not Charging.
Charger connected to under hood connections = had to divideits current between interior lights and the black hole battery, so lights werea bit dim.

I wonder if battery fluid shifts could cause an internalplate to bend or something so from that point on the battery can't be recoveredand is just a high resistance short circuit for the alternator or the charger.

I suppose I could have disconnected the battery while shewas idling to see if voltage recovered but believe me my head was not thereright about then.

Does this all make sense to you, that the battery can anddid fail suddenly, which will explain all these issues?
I have not had a chance to try to see battery fluid level.The battery is bolted in, I'll leave that til tomorrow. Where the Heck couldthe battery fluid go I wonder?

Truth is, as I typed this I began to feel relieved, I suredidn't feel like swapping in a new alternator, but let me pull back and see ifyou guys agree.

I look forward to your thoughts and suggestions. PS don't worry I can take it if you tell meI've likely blown the new alternator .

Thanks,
John

 

Update. After 90 minutes on the charger the charger is now showing 3 or 4 amps going in. I checked several of the fluid levels, all look OK.

Connected leads to battery, started up. Alternator is charging, no lights except what you'd expect Hood open; trunk open Driver door open.

I wonder if something was shorting out? Ah I'm grasping at straws now. Look forward to your thoughts/experiences.

John

 

Check ground and bulkhead connections, sand and tighten. Consider replacing the negative cable...

 

I don't know, but I suspect the alternator wasn't - for a while - charging the battery so the battery went flat.

So... yes investigate why the alt played up / wiring.

 

That would be the right hand side, right above the alternator.

Water hoses and engine electrics don't play well together.

 

If a bad alternator, let's say one that can only put out +1 volt, wouldn't that have shown up as soon as cars current consumption exceeded alternator charging ability ?

Just trying to understand why no sign of trouble until battery nearly dead.

 

You could have 1 bad cell in the battery. I would leave it for 24 hours with a full charge and then try to start the car. If you have a bad cell it shouldn't start. You may have gotten water in the alternator in your drive, and it shorted something out for a minute until it evaporated. How old is the battery? Have you had it stress tested? Just a few random thoughts.

 

Thanks all. Just took care to Autozone for tests. Battery shows ok. Alternator failed the test.

On the way over I watched the voltmeter like a hawk. Showed 1 volt low after starting moved to ok shortly after. Then I remembered I shut off driving lights and air conditioning the night before.

Turned them on and voltage dropped regardless of rpms.

Autozone will have a replacement tomorrow or next day. I did some research with local mechanics. They winced at the thought of using a Duralast alternator. I decided to get my hands on a rebuilt Denso (name right? =the original brand). Later today thanks to Flemington Foriegn car.

In my opinion, one would be nuts to use Duralast rebuilt alternators.

Well first alternator came out in under 2 hours, bet I can now do it in 30 minutes (this will be 3rd alternator in 2 weeks).

 

I found a rebuilt OEM alternator. Problem solved. Strong recommendation: Do not use a Duralast alternator in these cars. You just don't need to go through this my friends.

John