My XK8 passed its MOT (UK annual test) after a struggle with emissions with a couple of minor advisories.

I know the tester and he let me look underneath and he identified two possible issues;

He's 90% sure the drivers side cat is faulty and that's the side that has very high fuel trims which sounds plausible to me as a smoke test found no leaks, and spraying with brake cleaner had no impact. Anyway I'll change it and see. Are BM Cats an OK brand?

And he saw what I failed to see that the left rear shock upper isolator had moved to one side and that was the boink noise I was hearing. I assume I need to replace all the parts up there if that's the case. It's sort of red and bulges out on one side and allows touching metal the other. No idea how this has happened. Ride height is fine.

Anyway another 12 months of driving so happy days.

 

Congrats on the new ticket

There's a foam doughnut bushing at the top, similar idea to the front shock mounts, and a couple of foam pieces around the shock spindle where it attaches to the upper spring mounting.

Rothwell did a good writeup of the shock R&R which will help you:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...9/#post1928458.

It's not too painful, but also not what I'd call an easy job.

Check out the state of the lower shock bushing when you have it all apart.

 

Thanks Michael you are always upbeat.

I have done the lower shock bushes already about 18 months ago and I wonder if I disturbed that donut and it's wriggled its way across.

Oh for a 4 poster although it wasn't so bad sitting on the drive.

 

A LOT of a joy.

The MoT is always a cause for concern, regardless of how carefully the vehicle has been prepared.

I've used the same testing station for many years and they always let me go round the vehicle with them although quite rightly they won't let anything slip through. It's the once a year opportunity for a comfortable view of the underside for me.

The doughnut will be straightforward but good luck with the fuel trim issue.

Graham

 

It's mad isn't it. I have probably only put on 2,500 miles since the last MOT where the tester said how impressed he was by the overall condition - especially the brakes which he said were better balanced than some new cars. I always get tense but of course fixing stuff is partly why I bought the car and I've had my fun from it already in terms of value. £2,000 isn't a lot for a car like this.

One of the nice things about our village tester is that he's so busy he doesn't use the MOT as a work creation scheme. And he's busy because him and his team are good and care.

 

Well I have tackled the donut and have managed to reseat correctly by releasing drop link shock absorber etc. I didn't remove the spring/shock as I could get enough clearance at the top to move the donut and reseat it. I'll be interested to see how long it stays in place. Ever glass half full me.

Given other comments about bending plates etc. I found with a little releasing of bolts as in link MichaelH supplied and very limited use of a scissor jack I could have probably taken spring and shock out. Ride height's OK so I guess I'm lucky? When things turn out easier I feel uneasy.

Catalytic convertor next. That I fear will be a trial of strength and I live in fear of being mugged by a gang of kittens.

 

I've learned to get replacement manifold to cat studs and nuts in advance of attempting to remove/change catalytic converters. Saves a lot of grief trying the free the originals and they are rarely suitable for re-use.

Graham

 

That was my plan. Some places sell a fitting kit of studs, gasket and clamp for the slide on pipe.

I'm still not looking forward to getting the sensors out. Is best done in situ or once the cat is removed? The top I did in situ a few months ago.

 

I have tried to find advice in the workshop manual but ...

My catalytic convertor is slide on so I guess I need some exhaust sealant there
I will fit a new gasket manifold end - should I use sealant there?

Is there anything special about the studs used manifold end? My favoured supplier for a cat doesn't supply a fitting kit that includes studs although they do one that does include gasket, nuts for the studs and a clamp for the slide on pipe.

Thanks again.

 

The sensors can be a brute to shift after being in place for a few years. A lot easier on the bench.

I've usually got replacment studs and nuts from my Jaguar Dealer. Prices didn't used to be bad but everything seems to have taken a massive hike recently.

Graham

 

Morning Doc

The clamps for the sliding joints are fairly broad stainless steel bands:- I didn't use any sealant at that joint, nor around the manifold gasket.

The studs have a star end which, in theory, will allow them to be extracted. If you can get them out, go that way as you should be able to slide the cat forward to clear the joint to the centre box.
I just removed the nuts to drop the cat and had to drop the centre box as there wasn't enough room to push it all back far enough to clear the sliding joint. (My lack of thinking the job through there, doh!)

I would leave the HO2 sensors on the cat until you have it free as you're then working in the clear.

Go round with the penetrating oil a few times/days before you start.

 

Thanks guys that's very helpful. The genuine studs are 4 quid each which seems mental. The chances of me wanting remove them once in must be approaching zero I feel using standard parts coming on.

 

Dear lord am I ever being given the run around by a parts supplier. I want to buy a cheap cat made by BM in the UK. Their search engine says part BM90848 is right, it looks right but the supplier keeps on referring to parts for an XKR. They are trying to avoid a mistake so much credit to them but they clearly don't know their jags. Grr, I could have had the part tomorrow.

I would just buy from SNG but they are £100 more expensive (for a probably better product) so it's not insignificant.

Don't get me started on fitting kits.

And I take a deep breath.