This is the first time that I will bleed brakes on a car with ABS. When bleeding the brake fluid, is there any special activity necessary considering that the ABS is in the system. Or, do you just pump the brake pedal and vent the oil at each brake cylinder as for older cars?
Thanks
Graham Barker
XK8 2004

 

Its no different, just bleed normally.

The correct order is:
Left Front
Right Front
Left Rear
Right Rear

Or so I've been told.
Vector

 

It is not absolutely necessary, but it will not hurt to cycle the ignition on a couple of times (no need to start the engine) after each wheel is bled. This will pressurize the abs system and may get the last bit of air out.

 

We'll be installing new front calibers and flex brake lines soon and wanted to know if there's anything we need to watch out for. It's been 30+ years since I bled breakes on a car but I remember the routine. Two people. One cycling the drain valve on the caliber and one pushing the brake pedal (gentle and not to the foor), and keep the reservoir full. I plan on disconnecting the old flex line at the wheel well and immediately connecting the new line and caliber as to not give the fluid (dot 4) much time to leak out. Then start the process above.

Any hints, tips or suggestions?

Thanks,

Bobby

 

I'm not sure on the detail if this is for your X300, but temporarily sealing under the reservoir cap with a piece of clingfilm will help to mininise the fluid loss.
Take care that the new flexibles don't get twisted on fitting and ensure they're dressed so as not to chafe on any adjacent suspension parts.

Alternatively, if the brake fluid is more than a couple of years old, I'd treat the car to flushing out the brake fluid and bleeding all round.

 

here you go, the correct sequence and the reasoning behind it.


https://www.brakes-shop.com/brakeped...-the-right-way

1. Begin at the corner furthest from the driver and proceed in order toward the driver. (Right rear, left rear, right front, left front.) While the actual sequence is not critical to the bleed performance it is easy to remember the sequence as the farthest to the closest. This will also allow the system to be bled in such a way as to minimize the amount of potential cross-contamination between the new and old fluid.

Z

 

Thank you!

 

So our new caliber valves are very tight and I'm having issues cracking the valves open. This sounds like a silly question, but, clockwise closes the valve and counter clockwise opens the valve. Correct,? Just want be sure before i start leaning on it.
Thanks,
Bobby

 

You have it right. But if the bleeder screws are really frozen, there is a danger of them breaking off. If I were presented with your situation I would first spray them with a liberal dose of CRC Freeze Off. That would relax the hold that the corrosion has on the threads.

I’ve used it many times to loosen brake rotors from the studs and other recalcitrant parts. A little patience can save you a lot of headache.

with new parts, such as your new calipers, the screws were likely overtightened. The Freeze Off with some penetrating oil will be your best bet.


Z

 

You're probably already done by now, but I was going to add that I usually use a socket on the bleed screw to loosen it to avoid rounding off the edges. Of course, if it's rusted, that's a whole different ballgame.

As others noted, you should bleed the whole system anyway, just because it's old. I use a turkey baster to remove as much old fluid from the master cylinder as possible before adding in the new stuff. It reduces the amount of time and pedal pumping required.