Gonna replace the front rotors and pads on my XKR ('06 w/ Brembos). I thought I would change the fluid while I'm at it. Stupid question: does the engine need to be running when you pump the brake pedal? And #2, how much brake fluid will I need for just the fronts?

Any other hints or thoughts on the whole process would be much appreciated. Thanks.

 

No need to run the engine. In fact, it's probably rather dangerous. Starting the engine while it's up on jack stands is just asking for trouble.

I have no idea how much fluid you'll need. I'm pretty sure a single bottle of brake fluid would be adequate. Of course, I've never worked on 4 piston Brembo brakes.

 

Remember brake fluid is a hydraulic fluid that absorbs moisture from the air. Moisture will compress unlike hydraulic fluid and will cause a spongy brake feel. It will also discolor the fluid and render it useless. So remember, try not to use half the bottle and save the rest. If you do decide to save the rest, make sure it is TIGHTLY sealed. Secondly, when bleeding the brakes, it's a good idea to use a speed bleeder, they are very helpful and keep air out of the line.

 

vs....a speed bleeder? Where do you get one and how much?

 

This is the one i got and it works just fine http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-b...kit-92474.html

 

Another way to bleed is to replace the existing cylinder bleed screw with a check valve bleed screw. You loosen the screw, attach plastic hose to screw and the other end to container, press pedal release/repeat until finish. Retighten screw.
The BREMBO uses a M10x1.0 thread.
I purchased a set from www.speedbleeder.com , I also have the Harbor Freight tool.
Haven't used the bleed screws yet but have used the pump tool in the past.
If you want to borrow the Harbor Freight tool, I live in Vienna, PM me for phone number.

BobF

 

That's cool! And they're on $7 each. Add one more thing to my Christmas list...

 

A word of caution on bleeding the wheel cylinders by depressing the brake pedal to the floor. Old master cylinders can build up a deposit of rust ( not changing brake fluid over many years) beyond the normal brake stroke, the seal can be damanged by moving the pedal to the floor. I've had to rebuild/replace a few master cylinders over the years, this happened as I maintained a fleet of junkers for my kids. I only asked them to let me get my head out from under the hood before they drove away. They're grow now and have to do maintenance themselves, I hope my grandchildren treat them better.
BobF

 

A good find Bob I like it. I wonder how well it works.

 

They work great actually.

 

Not only should the engine NOT be running, you should press the brake pedal multiple times to deplete the vacuum reservoir in the booster before bleeding. The booster can put too much pressure into the bleeding procedure. I use a Motive Products pressure bleeder, it allows you to just go to each bleed nipple, open it until the fluid clears and move to the next. I don't like to use the brakes to do the bleeding due to possible damage to the master cylinder, which is very expensive. There is no easy way to determine if the MC will be damaged, and I don't like guesswork with $500 at risk. Especially with the very expensive Brembos, changing the fluid every two years is a must. You should do the rears too.

 

BobF was kind enough to lend me his brake bleeder so I'm good to go. However, the directions say to bleed the brakes in the proper sequence recommended in the service manual. Is there a proper sequence for the XKR Brembos? I was going to do the fronts and then the rears. Is this a problem?

 

I think the proper sequence is farthest corner away from the brake reservoir then work your way forward. I can't remember which side the brake fluid is on...

 

Don't forget, on Brembos you have an inner and an outer bleed nipple. I did the outer first as it's slightly further away from master.

 

i WAS GOING TO MENTION THIS. ALSO SUCK OUT THE OLD FLUID FROM THE RESERVOIR AND THEN REFILL WITH NEW FLUID BEFORE YOU START BLEEDING. THIS KEEPS YOU FROM PUMPING THE DIRTIEST FLUID THROUGH THE SYSTEM. WHEN YOU FLUSHING THE SYSTEM WHERE YOU START DOESNT REALLY MATTER. ONLY WHEN TRYING TO REMOVE AIR FROM COMPONENT REPLACEMENT. DO ALL 4 CALIPERS AND RUN AT LEAST 1 QT BRAKE FLUID THROUGH SYSTEM. THOSE PINT BOTTLES ARE NOT ENOUGH

 

Jag calls for Jaguar brake fluid....naturally. I'm gonna use Castrol....any problem with that?

 

Just DOT 4 . . . only. But some now specify DOT 3 OR 4. That's OK also.